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Mike9311
Joined: 14 Dec 2004
Posts: 1798
Location: Chicago-ish
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 Posted: Sat Jun 25, 2022 3:24 am Post subject: |
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"Do the whole car" made me laugh 
Of course I prefer the return to Red but don't go with a metallic. Stick with a solid and then you can patch work the job. This allows for you to spend time on one panel.
Ever see a silver metallic car with a front fender that looks darker than the door but when you change angles its the opposite? Depending how and when (conditions) a metallic is painted, the particles stand a certain way in the cured paint.
I would stick with a solid
and yes, paint and supplies are expensive now. Crazy expensive
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1980 931 since 1989
1981 Ideola 931 Club Sport
1982 931 Entwicklungsfahrzeug
1979 924 NA ohne 650 mit 471
1982 931 Red Resurrection - 951 IC
1982 931 parts car / resurrection?
1980 924 NA (R&D lightweight)
1982 931 wana-be GTR race car |
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Fasteddie313
Joined: 29 Sep 2013
Posts: 2595
Location: MI
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| Posted: Sat Jun 25, 2022 4:26 am Post subject: |
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Everything is crazy expensive now..
The world is getting crazy(er constantly)..
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80 Turbo - Slightly Modified |
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Beartooth
Joined: 05 Apr 2022
Posts: 314
Location: Roberts, MT
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| Posted: Sat Jun 25, 2022 4:59 am Post subject: |
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| Fasteddie313 wrote: |
You basically just exactly described what I’m running..
It’s MegaSquirt, you just plug the DPR into the MegaSquirt instead of EFI injectors, and still does everything else MegaSquirt does..
It will do many ignituon styles, and all the cool stuff open/closed loop, fuel CUT, antilag/launch control (ON CIS), boost control, everything..
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I've read up on Microsquirt and the dkubus setup (thought about buying one several years ago); there was a fair amount of chatter about it on the Mercedes forums when it first appeared. If there's a better option for tuning KE-jet setups, I don't know of it (there might be some old-school racing setups that'd do some things better, but I'm not even sure what's out there). What I was getting at is a one-box solution. Another component means another thing to fail, and the fact that Microsquirt has to be programmed like it's driving an injector and have that signal translated to an amperage to the EHA means you don't have as fine or full control as you ideally would. Don't get me wrong, it's a great product, and it might be the best option we'll ever get. For me, personally, if somebody came up with an integrated solution for the same price (or close) designed from the ground up around KE-jet, I'd be more likely to get onboard. But again, I've got fairly stock engines, so I don't need it, and the market may never be big enough to generate a ROI on the more elegant solution I have in mind anyway.
Looks like the body work is going well! The question of "how far do I go?" really comes down to your motivation and expectations. For a daily driver, just getting everything smoothed out and taking out all the dings and such is plenty. The kind of paint job I was talking about earlier, one taking hundreds of man-hours, is what you'd do for a show car that'll never see a drop of rain or gravel road. I think you're on the right track, and I doubt you'll be disappointed with the results. For a guide coat, I bought a dry powder product that works pretty well: https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/p/d/b40067362/.
I don't think there's any getting away from sorting out all the major imperfections and spraying the whole car at this point. If you get the roof and quarter panels in really nice shape and spray it without addressing the other stuff, you're going to notice those things all the time. It's also a good opportunity to do any body upgrades you have in mind. Would be an added hassle and expense, but not nearly as much as if you decide to do it down the road. Ditto for changing to another color, although I wouldn't let the cost of paint drive that decision unless it's blowing your budget. It's easy to get wrapped up in every little detail, but if you pick a good color and it comes out smooth and glossy, 99% if the people who see it will love it.
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1980 931 diamond in the rough |
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Fasteddie313
Joined: 29 Sep 2013
Posts: 2595
Location: MI
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| Posted: Wed Jun 29, 2022 3:31 am Post subject: |
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Rear bumper mount straightened and glassed back in, glass patched the inside where the damage is..
Reinstalled.. The outside should be a pretty simple fill-sand-fill-sand-fill-sand-prime to finish prep..
The rear diffuser took very well to fiberglass resin.. Where it was torn/blown up, I worked resin deep into the cracks and clamped it flat to cure..
The mounts that pulled out of it, I made a decently thin filler/resin mix and potted the mounts all back in, for the studs it has.. Glassed it’s female mounts and fused washers right into it..
Need exterior work in one area, right by the bumper cracks..
Side skirts..
Have been taking SOOOO much time..
3 of the ends where they were riveted on were all ripped right out, and one end was completely gone, I had to make the end cap of it from nothing, where it meets the right rear wheel..
Glassed washers into the end caps between layers..
Reinstalled, still need outside finished.. One is near finished..
these need to get smoothed/filled back in where they meet the fenders, and all sorts of shaping work..
Shaping work is kinda fun though..
Fiberglass the backside of the front bumper where it was all broke, reinstalled..
Forgot to fix the front bumper where it mounts to the front right fender, so those mounts are quite sketchy..
Front right lower bumper mount where the oil cooler is is bent all up..
Oil cooler mounts bent with it..
Probably should replace the oil cooler..
Front right fender..
Knocked the dents out of it as much as I can without completely destroying the paint.. Reinstalled..
Undecided about front right fender and front bumper..
Might go Carter’s GT/GTS front bumper.. What all lights and crap would I need for that? Bumper bar behind it?
Pulled the dents out of the nose panel some with a windshield suction cup..
Still looks like hell..
Haven’t touched right door yet..
Windshield is still exploded..
Hose from the WP the the Tstat housing is blowing water..
Front right rear control arm bushing mount holes in the body are stripped.. Back of control arm flopping around..
(Contributed to the accident or caused by the accident?)
One was already sketchy threads before the accident..
Have to put the interior back together..
Ruined the headliner.. Tried super hard to get it off without hurting it but failed..Not that it was perfect before though..
Ruined one of the windshield trim pieces..
On the plus side it kinda looks like a car again, and a lot of its parts that flew off are now on it rather than in it..
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80 Turbo - Slightly Modified |
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Mike9311
Joined: 14 Dec 2004
Posts: 1798
Location: Chicago-ish
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| Posted: Wed Jun 29, 2022 4:17 am Post subject: |
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Protect that dash...that dash be real nice
_________________
1980 931 since 1989
1981 Ideola 931 Club Sport
1982 931 Entwicklungsfahrzeug
1979 924 NA ohne 650 mit 471
1982 931 Red Resurrection - 951 IC
1982 931 parts car / resurrection?
1980 924 NA (R&D lightweight)
1982 931 wana-be GTR race car |
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