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OT: Epoxy Sealant - Garage Floor
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Rasta Monsta  



Joined: 12 Jul 2006
Posts: 11733
Location: PacNW

PostPosted: Mon Oct 18, 2010 11:55 pm    Post subject: OT: Epoxy Sealant - Garage Floor Reply with quote

So, who has done this? Which product did you use? Any tips?

TIA


rasta
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fiat22turbo  



Joined: 18 Jan 2006
Posts: 4040
Location: Portland, OR

PostPosted: Tue Oct 19, 2010 2:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Have the concrete polished.

http://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/floor-coatings/1318/page1/

http://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/epoxy-garage-floors/12353/page1/

http://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/epoxy-vs-painted-floor/17940/page1/

http://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/off-topic-discussion/garage-floor-coatings/909/page1/

Most of the coatings fail eventually, especially if used with jacks, rolling toolboxes and spilled fluids.

I would actually lay down some interlocking rubber tiles around the car(s) and bench to protect your back/feet over some harder interlocking tiles under the car. If you want to roll something heavy around, lift the tiles and set them aside temporarily.
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Mike9311  



Joined: 14 Dec 2004
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Location: Chicago-ish

PostPosted: Tue Oct 19, 2010 2:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

There is one, Epoxy-Coat, that I don't recommend.

In a three car garage they give you ONE brush, ONE roller, and then tell you since it takes 20 minutes to cure, not to mix the whole batch. By the time you finish trim brushing the one section between the concrete expansion joints (1/2 a car port) the brush is shot and hard. If you were done trimming in 15 minutes and used the roller you have a hard roller and brush in the next 5 minutes. I speak from experience and it was the worst experience out of the three garages I have done.

They did not explain this very well in their instructions and simply having only one brush and one roller seems insane. If you use Epoxy-Coat correctly it is a nice and durable product but be aware of my warning.

A friend asked me to do his with Griots product and I wish I would have used it instead. If I remember correctly it was water based which made it easier to start the process as well after cleaning.
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Joes924Racer  



Joined: 03 Nov 2002
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 19, 2010 2:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

So ya go mix dip trim splash roll & go & knock it out
or hire some -1 to do it 4 u. I would rather have indoor
out door carpet.
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Mike9311  



Joined: 14 Dec 2004
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 19, 2010 3:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Joes924Racer wrote:
So ya go mix dip trim splash roll & go & knock it out
or hire some -1 to do it 4 u. I would rather have indoor
out door carpet.


I won't give any more details other than its nice now and be aware of the working pot life. Its not that the product wasn't nice just misleading in application. If you don't care about the walls, splash and go
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tyfighter123  



Joined: 19 Jan 2010
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 19, 2010 3:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have done this in two homes. It is awesome easy to clean and well worth the money. I got it from lowes in the kit. I bought normal paint rollers and the long handles and just rolled it on thick. Dries over night.
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Fifty50Plus  



Joined: 28 Feb 2008
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 19, 2010 5:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rasta.
I've been researching this for about a year and am ready to pull the trigger on DuraPoxy (www.concrete-floor-coatings.com/#duraseal). I've got 1200 square feet to cover and am looking to do the work in two parts. My garage is too full of crap to totally clean out but I can move everything to one side and do the other. Wait a couple days and reverse the process. DuraPoxy is not a water based epoxy and is supposed to be the hardest. Check their site.
Chuck
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mgatlag  



Joined: 02 Aug 2007
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 19, 2010 5:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've done it for several of my homeowners and the Lowe's kit works just fine. Just make sure you get the sealant off the concrete first. It will last much longer. Make sure you do have a vapor barrier under the concrrete too. Moisture from under will shorten the life of the floor. And some of the kits don't come with the flakes to give color and grip adhesive. Make sure you get some. Water based products are easier to use and easier to clean up but oil based ones are better IMO. Just have to be more careful. Good luck.
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Joes924Racer  



Joined: 03 Nov 2002
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 19, 2010 5:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

No no I meant pour and go.. I would get a roller rack in a 5 gal bucket..
how much liquide is there a gal... if so jsut trim it and pour and roll i didnt mean splash outside of the trimmed area next to the wall anyway.
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BionicBalls  



Joined: 05 Jan 2009
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 19, 2010 5:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Seriously Joe, reading your posts are painful. I have absolutely no F@cking idea what you are trying to say 94% of the time.
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ic932  



Joined: 11 Feb 2005
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 19, 2010 8:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just buy, consume...what the FU*K are you on about mate?
It's concrete, maybe slightly porous?

I dunno...for the man who has everything? You Yanks lol.

YES I'M JUST JEALOUS...working in the open air with jackstands lol
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Rasta Monsta  



Joined: 12 Jul 2006
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 19, 2010 10:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ah yes, 1 AM in the UK.


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the_mad_electrician  



Joined: 16 Nov 2009
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Location: Central Georgia

PostPosted: Tue Oct 19, 2010 10:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ic932 wrote:
Just buy, consume...what the FU*K are you on about mate?
It's concrete, maybe slightly porous?

I dunno...for the man who has everything? You Yanks lol.

YES I'M JUST JEALOUS...working in the open air with jackstands lol



I'm working in the dirt and have a piece of linolium floor that I put under the car so i don't have to lay in the dirt. the cut on my hand that I posted a tread about early was from getting a saw out to cut small peices of ply wood to place my jackstands on. So we yanks don't have everything
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dpw928  



Joined: 02 Nov 2002
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 19, 2010 11:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The key to any floor finish is preparation in that the concrete MUST be clean and absorbent for the product to properly bond. This applies to acid stains, epoxies, water based or solvent based finishes. Oil, grease and latex based stains may be cleaned with a product like tri-sodium phosphate (TSP) which is sold in any store that sells paint. If stained with ureothane or solvent based acrylic, a paint stripper will be required to get a good base for finishing.

Another option to epoxy is acid staining. It is more forgiving, in some respects, is cheaper but requires much more labor.

Dennis
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Mike9311  



Joined: 14 Dec 2004
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 19, 2010 11:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

dpw928 wrote:
The key to any floor finish is preparation in that the concrete MUST be clean and absorbent for the product to properly bond. This applies to acid stains, epoxies, water based or solvent based finishes. Oil, grease and latex based stains may be cleaned with a product like tri-sodium phosphate (TSP) which is sold in any store that sells paint. If stained with ureothane or solvent based acrylic, a paint stripper will be required to get a good base for finishing.

Another option to epoxy is acid staining. It is more forgiving, in some respects, is cheaper but requires much more labor.

Dennis


Make sure whatever you acid etch you also coat or reseal. In my case I left the outside edge clean since it wasn't a matching color on the floor to the house and it had issues once winter came and salt got on it.
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