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engine ground cables

 
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B  



Joined: 25 Apr 2006
Posts: 487
Location: Ohio

PostPosted: Thu Jul 08, 2010 1:15 am    Post subject: engine ground cables Reply with quote

hey everyone

I was going through more electronic fixes and noticed that some of the grounds that are attached to the motor are looking a little ragged (to say the least) - these are the larger braided wires. I wanted to know if I could replace these with a shielded battery cable - ? and should the length of these be kept the same?

any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

thanks very much
Sean
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ideola  



Joined: 01 Oct 2004
Posts: 15550
Location: Spring Lake MI

PostPosted: Thu Jul 08, 2010 2:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Shielded is fine (better?!). Length: as short as possible. More importantly: gauge => as big as you can afford. Our cars are insufficiently grounded to begin with. Putting in fresh ground straps with bigger gauge is a Very Good Thing.
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B  



Joined: 25 Apr 2006
Posts: 487
Location: Ohio

PostPosted: Thu Jul 08, 2010 3:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanks -

I will take care of that asap

Sean
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Octane  



Joined: 30 Jun 2009
Posts: 100
Location: Hamilton, Ontario, Canada

PostPosted: Thu Jul 08, 2010 3:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good grounds are crucial. This is 1/0 gauge pure copper welding cable with copper lugs soldered on both ends. I ground the paint off to bare metal where it attaches to the block, then it runs about a foot to bare metal onto the motor mount plate which is welded to the body. There's another smaller 4-gauge ground hidden on the other side as well. If there's one thing I learned about ridiculous car stereos it's the importance of good grounds. Shielded is definitely the way to go. The 1/0 is about the same diameter as a quarter.



A 25' roll of 1/0ga welding cable was about $65, probably overkill for these cars but it's definitely worth it. I needed it to trunk mount my battery anyway, and still had some left over to re-wire my F-350's batteries.
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Slam  



Joined: 07 Jan 2005
Posts: 1689
Location: Wainwright, Alberta, Canada

PostPosted: Thu Jul 08, 2010 3:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's just so... Green! What a color!
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datatrain  



Joined: 15 Sep 2007
Posts: 441
Location: Osoyoos, British Columbia

PostPosted: Thu Jul 08, 2010 5:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Battery cables with flat connectors come in all lengths. Just measure the distance and buy a finished battery cable cheap. They make excellent ground wires as they are heavy gauge. They work for me !
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Harm  



Joined: 02 Apr 2009
Posts: 1376
Location: Holland

PostPosted: Thu Jul 08, 2010 6:21 am    Post subject: Re: engine ground cables Reply with quote

ideola wrote:
Shielded is fine (better?!).

Yep, but not better.
Shielded ground wires on vehicles tend to oxidise from within, quicker then the exposed ones.
At least thats what I was told the other day by my shop specialized in starters and solenoids.
Came in for new battery & ground wires; Left to get me a ingition starter switch at the dealership.
Free advice and they were right; Great service, huh?

Regards, Harm.
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ideola  



Joined: 01 Oct 2004
Posts: 15550
Location: Spring Lake MI

PostPosted: Thu Jul 08, 2010 6:28 am    Post subject: Re: engine ground cables Reply with quote

Harm wrote:
ideola wrote:
Shielded is fine (better?!).

Yep, but not better.
Shielded ground wires on vehicles tend to oxidise from within, quicker then the exposed ones.

Would like to see some empirical evidence to support that assertion. I find it hard to believe that a shielded negative cable would oxidize faster than one exposed directly to the elements. I'll admit I don't have any evidence to counter the theory, but it seems counter-intuitive. At least here in MI where we sit on top of a salt mine and have half of it dumped on our roads every winter.
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ideola  



Joined: 01 Oct 2004
Posts: 15550
Location: Spring Lake MI

PostPosted: Thu Jul 08, 2010 6:28 am    Post subject: Re: engine ground cables Reply with quote

Harm wrote:
ideola wrote:
Shielded is fine (better?!).

Yep, but not better.
Shielded ground wires on vehicles tend to oxidise from within, quicker then the exposed ones.

Would like to see some empirical evidence to support that assertion. I find it hard to believe that a shielded negative cable would oxidize faster than one exposed directly to the elements. I'll admit I don't have any evidence to counter the theory, but it seems counter-intuitive. At least here in MI where we sit on top of a salt mine and have half of it dumped on our roads every winter.
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!tom  



Joined: 28 Aug 2006
Posts: 1941
Location: Victoria, BC Canada

PostPosted: Thu Jul 08, 2010 11:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

By shielded, do you mean insulated? There's a difference.

The insulation can hold water in once it gets wet, which can speed the process of degradation of the wire. This would be the mechanism that Harm was discussing.

I can't see any benefit to shielded wire at all. I don't know of a compelling reason why an insulated ground wire would be preferred, and if Harm is right, there's reasons not to.

If you could ensure a seal between the insulation and the wire, that would be different.
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ideola  



Joined: 01 Oct 2004
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Location: Spring Lake MI

PostPosted: Thu Jul 08, 2010 1:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good point on the taxonomy, tom, should be "insulated" not "shielded". I guess I was just thinking that protecting them from the elements as much as possible would be better than leaving them open. My opinion is based also somewhat on the fact that virtually all modern cars have insulated ground cables. But maybe we're splitting hairs...anything you do to freshen up and increase the size of the grounding straps on the 924 will be a benefit, insulated or not!
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