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Brake pad wear and LSD for snail shell
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daniel  



Joined: 18 Jun 2009
Posts: 686
Location: Sydney, Australia

PostPosted: Mon Nov 02, 2009 9:01 am    Post subject: Brake pad wear and LSD for snail shell Reply with quote

Hi All
Just enjoyed a good weekends racing with the 924, All went well however I had to change brake pads on Sunday morning. Can some of you guys that race your 924's recomend a pad that will give a bit more longevity? Please bear in mind that the class I run does not allow for rotor/caliper changes etc, so I have to keep the stock brake system.

Also does anyone know if you can buy a LSD for a snail shell box? Again, I must stick with this gear box, so fitting a Audi based unit is not an option.

Thanks

Daniel
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Over the top of skyline, total brake failure.... hit the wall at over 200 kp/h at the dipper, so anyone who has to brake for the esses is a pussy.
1977.5 Race Car, CAMS Group S Spec
1989 944 Cabriolet
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emoore924  



Joined: 13 Apr 2004
Posts: 2822

PostPosted: Mon Nov 02, 2009 9:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not sure if you have a 4- or 5-bolt suspension but that will make a difference. If you have a 4-bolt, I don't know what to tell you. If you have a 5-bolt, there's lots of compounds out there -- you're essentially running a 944 caliper so you'd take 251's in the front.

Pagid, Hawk, CoolCarbon, there's tons of choices out there. I don't knwo your driving style so it is hard to offer guidance. If it was me, I'd probably start with a decent street/race blend compound and see if you can get them up to temp. Then if yes, try higher temp/higher torque until you can't heat them up enough or they're too hard on your rotors.

As for the snailshell LSD, if you have a n/a snailshell with the 19mm shaft, I think LSDs are essentially unobtanium. I've run a 016 for 20 years and never heard of one.

If you have the 25mm shaft snailshell (G31) from the turbo, I have heard of them but never seen one for sale. If rules allow, might be worth changing over to a 944 box. LSDs for them are available.

Good luck. Might want to post this in the racing forum.
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daniel  



Joined: 18 Jun 2009
Posts: 686
Location: Sydney, Australia

PostPosted: Mon Nov 02, 2009 9:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

4 lug setup!
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Over the top of skyline, total brake failure.... hit the wall at over 200 kp/h at the dipper, so anyone who has to brake for the esses is a pussy.
1977.5 Race Car, CAMS Group S Spec
1989 944 Cabriolet
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emoore924  



Joined: 13 Apr 2004
Posts: 2822

PostPosted: Mon Nov 02, 2009 9:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mmm, yeah, that's gonna be tough. Post in the racing forum and see if you get any leads there...
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Vince Ponz  



Joined: 02 Nov 2002
Posts: 3581
Location: Florida

PostPosted: Mon Nov 02, 2009 10:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I never had problems with brake pads when I was in NY. I had 14in rims with discs in the front and drums in the back. I made sure the rears were adjusted every track event.

When I started I would charge to a corner and brake hard. Lost momentum. I then tried to not brake hard and let the car carry the speed with the least amount of braking. We have low power cars and you just have to keep up the speed.

I would catch early 80 911s. It would take many laps but that was the fun of it.
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77.5 924 modified track car
79 931 Euro stock
88 924S SE
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Andrew NZ  



Joined: 22 Jun 2004
Posts: 744
Location: New Zealand

PostPosted: Mon Nov 02, 2009 2:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Either get the pads relined locally (I use a Mintex compound), or get the EBC yellow pads that the UK race class uses.
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Andrew
1977 RX924 race car
12a bridgeport supercharged
www.race4-dcup.co.nz
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daniel  



Joined: 18 Jun 2009
Posts: 686
Location: Sydney, Australia

PostPosted: Mon Nov 02, 2009 3:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Andrew
Do you know where the UK guys buy there pads from??

Thanks
Daniel
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Over the top of skyline, total brake failure.... hit the wall at over 200 kp/h at the dipper, so anyone who has to brake for the esses is a pussy.
1977.5 Race Car, CAMS Group S Spec
1989 944 Cabriolet
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Fifty50Plus  



Joined: 28 Feb 2008
Posts: 1422
Location: Washington DC area

PostPosted: Tue Nov 03, 2009 1:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you don't drive the car on the street (trailer it to the track) you can weld up the spider gears in the differential. That gives you a full locked rear which will oversteer quite a bit more. Once you learn how to handle that, you will be faster by far than with a slip.
Regards,
Chuck
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1979 924 NA race car H-Prod SCCA
1982 924 NA race car - Sold
1981 924 Turbo sold
1982 924 Turbo sold
1972 911 E race car - traded for Cayenne Diesel
1975 914 1.8 Building for H-Prod SCCA
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simsport  



Joined: 06 Nov 2002
Posts: 573
Location: UK Warrington

PostPosted: Tue Nov 03, 2009 6:39 am    Post subject: Brakes and diff Reply with quote

I use Porterfield RS pads which work very well. As for a LSD then you could try the Phantomgrip unit. I know, I know its not a proper LSD and I have posted on this list about its failings but, it did give me some genuine benefit in sprint events and its cheap and I think is made to fit the snailshell box.

cheers
simon
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Cedric  



Joined: 27 Aug 2004
Posts: 2809
Location: Sweden

PostPosted: Tue Nov 03, 2009 7:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

On my n/a I used hawk hp+, they were indestructible, after 3 seasons with trackdays with two drivers they still had a couple of mm left. They never faded even after 1 hour of track driving at r compund tyres. There are racier pads in there catalouge so something there should work nice.

www.raceshopper.com worked well for me.

At the moment the n/a is fitted with carbotech xp8, which should be one of the best pads out there, shure they had a bit better bite but for me not worth the extra money.

quaife has lsds, although not plate type they are not the plate type. I forgot the url but there are another company making not so expensive plate typ lsds for our cars, I will see if I can find it, its the same diff as Porsches 915 gearbox.
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daniel  



Joined: 18 Jun 2009
Posts: 686
Location: Sydney, Australia

PostPosted: Tue Nov 03, 2009 7:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi All
I do drive the car to the track, so the phantomgrip unit looks like a winner! Also Don at EBS has given me a good price on some Poterfield pads so Ill give them a try.

Cheers!
Daniel
_________________
Over the top of skyline, total brake failure.... hit the wall at over 200 kp/h at the dipper, so anyone who has to brake for the esses is a pussy.
1977.5 Race Car, CAMS Group S Spec
1989 944 Cabriolet
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daniel  



Joined: 18 Jun 2009
Posts: 686
Location: Sydney, Australia

PostPosted: Tue Nov 03, 2009 8:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Also, does anyone know if, after removing drive shafts and splines if you can simply remove the diff cover plate and then remove the diff unit?

Cheers
_________________
Over the top of skyline, total brake failure.... hit the wall at over 200 kp/h at the dipper, so anyone who has to brake for the esses is a pussy.
1977.5 Race Car, CAMS Group S Spec
1989 944 Cabriolet
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Rich H  



Joined: 10 Jun 2007
Posts: 2665
Location: Preston, Lancs, UK

PostPosted: Tue Nov 03, 2009 8:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Don't see why not.
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1980 Porsche 924 S2 DITC Turbo - Original spec
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v8carreragts  



Joined: 05 Sep 2003
Posts: 665
Location: Tucson, AZ

PostPosted: Wed Nov 04, 2009 11:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

First all of the snailshells will use the same LSD. This follows through with the 915 and 930. Also the ring and pinion gears are interchangable between all of the snailshells as well. No 016 based LSD will fit the snailshell. The snailshell diff is much bigger than the 016, 924, 944 and 951.



To remove the diff you just remove the stub shafts, then the diff cover and lift the diff out. When you swap the diff you need to re-set the diff bearing pre-load. Something that is difficult to do without disassembling the transaxle. The diff bearing preload is measured without the pinion installed. Doing this improperly will also change the back lash setting between the ring and pinion gears (crown and pinion for those in the UK)

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Lizard  



Joined: 03 Nov 2002
Posts: 9364
Location: Abbotsford BC. Canada

PostPosted: Thu Nov 05, 2009 2:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Why are you required to stay with the snailshell and 4 lug.

M471 (5 bolt) was an option for your car. And the snailshell was not factory on any 1977.5 924 that I have ever heard of. In fact it should have been a audi 4 or 5 speed.
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