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Wiring Harness
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Which approach should I take for wiring up the UWB project
12-Circuit Painless
0%
 0%  [ 0 ]
14-Circuit Rebel Wire
25%
 25%  [ 1 ]
Use the like-new stock harness as-is
50%
 50%  [ 2 ]
Modify like-new harness with Painless breaker box
25%
 25%  [ 1 ]
Total Votes : 4

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ideola  



Joined: 01 Oct 2004
Posts: 15550
Location: Spring Lake MI

PostPosted: Wed May 20, 2009 4:55 am    Post subject: Wiring Harness Reply with quote

I unexpectedly came into possession of a like-new whole car (well, at least enough for my needs) wiring harness (via Paul Stewart via Kenodog ). I am now weighing my options for wiring up the UWB project. Obviously, cheapest and easiest will be to use the like-new harness as-is. But given the known shortcomings of the electrics in these cars, I'm wondering if I'll regret later not converting over to a modern fuse block and ground circuit. The nice thing about the latter approach is that the spade style fuses can be replaced with breakers if I ever wanted to upgrade even further. What do you guys think?
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Raceboy  



Joined: 01 Mar 2004
Posts: 2327
Location: Estonia, Europe

PostPosted: Wed May 20, 2009 6:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You left out the best approach.
It is "make the new harness from scratch by your own". And use high-quality wire with silicone insulation.

On a project like this (and mine also, and I didn't) I wouldn't use cheap PVC wires that can't cope with heat, age and dirt for prolonged time.
They become hard, they crack and weigh a lot.

Plus when you make the harness yourself, everything will be where it should be, no leftovers etc.

EDIT: And if you want absolutely the best there is, walk away from relays and fuses and use something like this:
http://www.motec.com.au/pdm16/pdm16accessories/
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Last edited by Raceboy on Wed May 20, 2009 6:47 am; edited 2 times in total
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bass gt  



Joined: 02 Dec 2004
Posts: 971
Location: Johannesburg for now!!

PostPosted: Wed May 20, 2009 6:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Raceboy wrote:
You left out the best approach.
It is "make the new harness from scratch by your own". And use high-quality wire with silicone insulation.

On a project like this (and mine also, and I didn't) I wouldn't use cheap PVC wires that can't cope with heat, age and dirt for prolonged time.
They become hard, they crack and weigh a lot.

Plus when you make the harness yourself, everything will be where it should be, no leftovers etc.


+1

Raychem Type 55 is the way to go. Decent shrink tube, and take your time.
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Scorpio  



Joined: 05 Jul 2007
Posts: 1957
Location: Brisbane, Australia

PostPosted: Wed May 20, 2009 8:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I was thinking of the painless circuit...but i went the option 3 route and am about 90% into fully rebuilding the wiring harness....just a few odds and ends left along with the EFI part.

Once i got through all the tape and actually got to the wire i found that the majority of the wire was "as new" with no cracking and great flexibility.

Problem areas which needed replacing included anywhere where wire was exposed ie some engine bay grounds...oil spill areas...near heat sources(where wire was indeed cracked)

I guess this is your ultimate build so if youve got the time and patience to go through with a custom wiring install then that will be the ultimate solution.(remember the $500 is just the kit, itll take you alot more of your time to figure it all out and make it work to the 924....whats your time worth is the question you have to ask)

Also Remeber that all the switches..ie headlight..indicators etc all have special connectors....you could always put your own on but this will take you aggeeess unless you use your own custom switches.. which may be what your doing??

The bottleneck isnt necessarily the wiring its where youre attaching the wiring to actuators/switches etc.... and if you keep stock switches then you still have the bottleneck...painless wiring or not

I purchased a second hand"like new" fuse box with no burnt pins... I think the electrics only run into trouble when something "shorts" or doesnt ground properly or when people use wrong fuses for a temporary fix thus frying something else.



Haynes also gives me a reference for all my wiring..you could always install painless then draw up your own wiring diagram..

Removing "troubled spots" from the factory harness will also add to its longevity..
.ie The whole fuel pump relay thing will be gone in your install due to EFI...so thats out of the way......im guessing youll put a new ignition switch in ($5) so that can cancel out..... smoothen out all ground points...or better yet make your own "accesible" ground points (the one behind the dash is definately not accessible"....grounds are a cause of headaches so get them right here and youll save alot of hassle
, use new spade connectors on them then dielectric grease

Use a plastic loom over all your wiring...but in the engine bay use this

http://www.thermotec.com/thermo-flex.html

Ide say thatll give you another 20-30 years out of it
Just some food for thought on Option 3, definately the easier solution
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Raceboy  



Joined: 01 Mar 2004
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PostPosted: Wed May 20, 2009 3:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I can tell from my experience (having done wiring on app. 40 cars) that it's always easier to fabricate new harness fromn scratch than to repair stock one. And always use new JPT connectors.
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'83 924 2.6 16v Turbo, 470hp
'67 911 2.4S hotrod
'90 944 S2 Cabriolet
'78 924 Carrera GT replica
'84 928 S, sold
'91 944 S2, sold
'82 924S/931 "Gulf", sold
'84 924, turbocharged, sold.
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fiat22turbo  



Joined: 18 Jan 2006
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PostPosted: Wed May 20, 2009 3:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So, you're rewiring the car, yet you're gonna keep the CIS?

You confuse me sir.
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Raceboy  



Joined: 01 Mar 2004
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Location: Estonia, Europe

PostPosted: Wed May 20, 2009 3:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Where did you read that?
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'83 924 2.6 16v Turbo, 470hp
'67 911 2.4S hotrod
'90 944 S2 Cabriolet
'78 924 Carrera GT replica
'84 928 S, sold
'91 944 S2, sold
'82 924S/931 "Gulf", sold
'84 924, turbocharged, sold.
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ideola  



Joined: 01 Oct 2004
Posts: 15550
Location: Spring Lake MI

PostPosted: Wed May 20, 2009 7:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

fiat22turbo wrote:
So, you're rewiring the car, yet you're gonna keep the CIS?

You confuse me sir.


Yeah, where did you read that?

The car is a completely bare shell at the moment. Every nut, bolt, clip, and grommet has been removed. The old stock wiring harness has long been removed, and I am not keen to put it back in because of several hacks made by the previous owner.

So yes, I am rewiring the entire care, but NO, I am not keeping CIS. I purchased bass gt's lightly-used DTAFast S60 ECU, so this will be a full blown EFI conversion (running E85). All of the details are here with many many links to sub-threads, all containing tons of photos and details.
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924guy  



Joined: 29 Dec 2003
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PostPosted: Wed May 20, 2009 8:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

im with scorp on this one, use the new "stock" harness, and reinforce/insulate in the critical areas...
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ideola  



Joined: 01 Oct 2004
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Location: Spring Lake MI

PostPosted: Wed May 20, 2009 11:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah, the Motec route is at least an order of magnitude out of my range, budget wise. $3500 just for the PDM. $2K+ just for a display unit. And try finding a price list for their wiring bits.

I'm curious, though, Raceboy & bass gt, is there some specific reason that you feel the Painless stuff is not up to snuff? I've seen nothing but good things written about their products.
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Raceboy  



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PostPosted: Thu May 21, 2009 12:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ideola wrote:

I'm curious, though, Raceboy & bass gt, is there some specific reason that you feel the Painless stuff is not up to snuff? I've seen nothing but good things written about their products.


I've been messing with wiring stuff and soldering for most of my life since when I was a teenager and I don't trust anything less than perfect wiring on a race-car or a project that has many dollars put inside.

Of course, doing proper wiring job requires proper tools (crimping tools, soldering irons, chemicals for proper soldering etc).

But, in the end it will look nicer and is more robust (use as small amount on spade connectors as possible) and on the track, when something happens, you will know the wiring by heart in the smallest details because you made it. And this is where seconds count (does park fermè ring a bell? )
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'83 924 2.6 16v Turbo, 470hp
'67 911 2.4S hotrod
'90 944 S2 Cabriolet
'78 924 Carrera GT replica
'84 928 S, sold
'91 944 S2, sold
'82 924S/931 "Gulf", sold
'84 924, turbocharged, sold.
http://www.facebook.com/vemsporsche
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ic932  



Joined: 11 Feb 2005
Posts: 1104
Location: UK

PostPosted: Thu May 21, 2009 2:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Raceboy wrote:
ideola wrote:

I'm curious, though, Raceboy & bass gt, is there some specific reason that you feel the Painless stuff is not up to snuff? I've seen nothing but good things written about their products.


I've been messing with wiring stuff and soldering for most of my life since when I was a teenager and I don't trust anything less than perfect wiring on a race-car or a project that has many dollars put inside.

Of course, doing proper wiring job requires proper tools (crimping tools, soldering irons, chemicals for proper soldering etc).

But, in the end it will look nicer and is more robust (use as small amount on spade connectors as possible) and on the track, when something happens, you will know the wiring by heart in the smallest details because you made it. And this is where seconds count (does park fermè ring a bell? )


Rings no bells with me...what is it, French?

Good to hear you promoting quality...you usually go for the T34 approch! But hey, that approach won WARS not just races lol
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ideola  



Joined: 01 Oct 2004
Posts: 15550
Location: Spring Lake MI

PostPosted: Thu May 21, 2009 3:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Raceboy, good points...but my project is not an all-out competition race car. It's a wicked street machine that will double as HPDE track toy...
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Raceboy  



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PostPosted: Thu May 21, 2009 3:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

What's wrong with me promoting anything? IMO I've always been promoting the "do it well or don't do it at all" attitude. And there's nothing wrong with experimentation as long as one can afford it.

Quote:
Good to hear you promoting quality...you usually go for the T34 approch! But hey, that approach won WARS not just races lol

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'83 924 2.6 16v Turbo, 470hp
'67 911 2.4S hotrod
'90 944 S2 Cabriolet
'78 924 Carrera GT replica
'84 928 S, sold
'91 944 S2, sold
'82 924S/931 "Gulf", sold
'84 924, turbocharged, sold.
http://www.facebook.com/vemsporsche
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ic932  



Joined: 11 Feb 2005
Posts: 1104
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PostPosted: Thu May 21, 2009 4:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Raceboy wrote:
What's wrong with me promoting anything? IMO I've always been promoting the "do it well or don't do it at all" attitude. And there's nothing wrong with experimentation as long as one can afford it.

Quote:
Good to hear you promoting quality...you usually go for the T34 approch! But hey, that approach won WARS not just races lol


NO, son, you been promoting cowboy tactics fellla. Nowt wrong with that.
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