924Board.org

[Warped]

By the way I live in Lake Stevens which is pretty much a sub city of Everett, Wa

I think I'm about 1.5 hours away from Bellingham.

[Smoothie]

[asalmona]

yeah the hoes you are talking about is the vacuum retard/advance for the distrbutor... this shouldnt really make a difference on starting... it would only matter as far as when you drive... the connector i described is the one your talking about right above the air filter next to the fuel destributor (the metal contrapction with all the braided fuel lines comming out of it and going at the injectors)... the mixture control unit is the thing next to that with the big black rubber boot on it that goes to the throttle body. the connector is right on the side of the mixture unit right bellow the rubber boot.
here is a simple test: go to your car and turn the key to the on postition dont try to start it... just to on... if you hear the fuel pump running (its a kind of humming sound comming from the rear right of the car) then the switch im talking about is disconnected already or broken in the off position. if you dont hear anything than the switch is doing what its supposed to or broken in the on position. if you dont hear anything carfullly disconnect the connector and try turning the car to the on position again (not starting it though). if you now hear the humming sound, try and start it.

Alex

[Geddy T]

Give me good directions to your house and I can leave now

[Geddy T]

my number is (360)319-6960

[Joes924]

geddy, everthing work with your car?

[924RACR]

OK, glad to hear you've got power back at the pump. Sounds like maybe you don't have a good pump yet. I don't put any faith in used electrical components, especially not fuel pumps. If it's not humming, the engine won't hum either! They always buzz when they're working, it's actually kinda annoying. Doesn't sound like you have a problem getting power back to it though. That's good, electrical problems are a real PITA to diagnose and fix, though they are cheap!

So, unless one of the 4 pumps you have buzzes, you're gonna have to buy a new one. If one does, then install it and see if you're pumping out fuel up front at the line that gazinta the fuel filter (should be the bottom one). If not, maybe that pump's still bad - try disconnecting the line from the pump and blowing the line out with compressed air.

If you are getting fuel there, then you need to check for fuel coming out of the injectors - by pulling them out (I use a vice grips and pull hard straight up, they just press in with an o-ring) and cranking the car while looking at the spray pattern... actually, have someone else crank the car while you point the injector into a glass jar.

Naturally this should all be done after flushing the tank of old gas, which will kill new fuel pumps and clog injectors badly. I think we already covered that previously.

The thing to look for from the injectors is a) a nice even spray pattern, should be cone shaped, and a nice fine mist, not spattering or droplets, and b) that all injectors shut off smartly after the engine stops cranking, not continuing to dribble fuel. If either is the case, either have the injectors professionally cleaned or replace them. Chances are also good that, after removing the injectors, you'll need to replace those o-rings. Not very expensive, and worth doing.

Once this is the case, if you're getting spark to the plugs you should be able to get the car running, at worst by playing with the timing while cranking the car.

_________________
Vaughan Scott
Webmeister
'79 924 #77 SCCA H Prod racecar
'82 931 Plat. Silver
#25 Hidari Firefly P2 sports prototype

[Geddy T]

Joe,
things did NOT work out very well down there. I pulled my old cam out and found that one of my intake valves was stuck. I don't know if it's bent or what--probably just too much fuel in the oil washing the valve guide and causing binding, but it wasn't something that I could fix in two days on the side of the road. I got the car to start, but just couldn't get it running well enough on 3. So I'm waiting 'till September now to have it just trucked up here.

[Warped]

First off, Thanks Geddy for coming on over last night and helping me out

We were looking at the turn off switch that asalmona, you where talking about in one of your posts. This could be one of the reasons I'm having some trouble. Does anyone know what switch relay I should test, and how to test it? We unhooked it and the fuel pump still did not turn on, so we where thinking that it might be worthwhile to replace or test it?

Some of the other items we saw last night were that my fan belt is not hooked on correctly, and my fuel distributor isn't getting any air through it, due to a plugged up plunger inside the distributor? (Geddy did I get that right, with the right termonlogy?) We also tried to fix all my vacuum hoses which where really all over the place, and not even close to being correct!

Therefore its looking like this weekend, I'm going to mess around with yet another fuel pump that I still have to test, and then borrow a air compressor to unplug a plunger (Very carefully, I'm told that I can't get a speak of dust on it) then play around with my fan belt, and perhaps experiment with my timming, since we also discovered that it was totally out of alignment.

Wish me luck...

[Richard]

I got an idea. You say you have 12 volts at the fuel pump wires. That is great. Now set your voltmeter to ohms, say 20 ohm scale. Touch the two leads together and make sure the needle or display reads zero. Now take at least one of the wires off of the fuel pump and with the ignition off, touch each test lead to a terminal. If the needle goes to infinite (all the way to left) or the display reads a big 1 then the fuel pump motor is burned out, or you need to go to the next higher scale. If you get a real number, like 3 or 5, go up to a parts store, corner a sympathetic salesperson and simply ask them to allow you to do the same on a new fuel pump. Or maybe someone on the board can tell you the correct ohms across the fuel pump terminals.

[Geddy T]

You were close, Lon. I think you've got the picture right, but the terminology is still a little off and it always sucks getting funny looks from mechanics or parts salesmen. It's not the fan belt that I was worried about, it's your timing belt. It may be in the right place, it's just really loose which is never good. So just align your timing like I showed you and tighten that sucker down. Your "fuel distributor" is the little box screwed into the air flow sensor with all of the fuel lines attached to it. Inside of that is a metal piston that is stuck at the bottom. This is preventing both air AND the right amount of fuel from being delivered. We need to figure out how to troubleshoot that fuel cutoff circuit on the air meter. Like I said, my car doesn't even have one. Does anyone out there have experience with this circuit? It's the electrical connection to the air flow sensor that cuts off the fuel pump when the car rolls over. Is there a ruse or relay to it that can be tested or replaced? If not, what can you do to problem solve? The Haynes says to test with the plug plugged in and with the plug out and see if the fuel pump gets power. Niether worked, so that might not even be the problem anyway. Might still be looking at a bad pump. Keep plugging.