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Porchenewbe

Joined: 04 Jun 2004 Posts: 30 Location: stoke on trent
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Posted: Tue Jul 26, 2005 12:07 am Post subject: Grinding her teeth...but why???? |
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Hi Folks.
For the past few months I have found it difficult to select 1st, 2nd and reverse gears on my 1983 5 speed manual. When the engine is not running the gears select fine, but drag when the car is stationary or moving at slow speed. The clutch cable has been adjusted but too no avail as the gears still grind/drag even when the clutch is adjusted so much that it slips. I have checked the gearbox oil and all is well there. I have also removed the bell housing inspection cover to observe the action of the clutch. I can see that when the clutch pedal is depressed fully the friction linings move apart by about 3mm and so fills the gap between the friction plate and flywheel. Is also appears that the clutch plate (between the 2 friction linings) is made of 2 sheets of metal which also move appart about 1mm when the clutch pedal is pressed. From reading the Haynes maual it appears that the friction linings are rivited and bonded to the clutch plate so is this expantion of the friction linings correct??
Also, what is the correct full range of motion for the thrust bearing when the clutch is fully depressed and then released?
Any help would be much appreated.
Many thanks. _________________ Riding a steep learning curve about all that is 924.
My first porsche ... I'm only 19..But loving it (except the insurance) ... quite some car. |
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CBass

Joined: 03 Nov 2002 Posts: 2807 Location: Vancouver, Canada
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Posted: Tue Jul 26, 2005 3:55 am Post subject: |
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Sounds like your clutch is dragging. What do you mean about the clutch plate moving apart? The disc is rigidly riveted together, and should not move apart at all.
The throwout bearing moves forward about 8-12cms are the most, if I recall correctly. It's mounted on a tube about that long, and if it goes too far it would slide off the end of the guide tube.
Try shifting into first with the clutch in all the way, then neutral for a second and then reverse, while the car is stationary and the engine is running. If you get a crunch when you engage reverse at this point, the clutch is definately grinding. _________________ '81 931 in various states of assembly |
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Porchenewbe

Joined: 04 Jun 2004 Posts: 30 Location: stoke on trent
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Posted: Wed Jul 27, 2005 5:22 am Post subject: |
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cheers cbass.
I agree the clutch is dragging but the question i have is WHY?!?!?! The reason i asked for an exact measurment that the thrust bearing should move is to check whether any part of the cable linkage, (or any other part for that matter) is either stretching or bending, as this will limit the distance that the trust bearing moves and thus limit the distance that the pressure plate can move so may cause the clutch to not fully disengage. As for the test you suggested, i can perform it without the gears grinding but only cos i have perfected a 'nak' to eliminate the crunch but it is still very stiff and 'draggy' and definatly not correct.
Many thanks matey.
John _________________ Riding a steep learning curve about all that is 924.
My first porsche ... I'm only 19..But loving it (except the insurance) ... quite some car. |
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D Hook

Joined: 02 Nov 2002 Posts: 3158 Location: Omaha, NE
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Posted: Wed Jul 27, 2005 8:19 am Post subject: |
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Have you checked the firewall where the cable enters the cabin under the hood? Sometimes the metal gives out and that would allow the cable to move but be out of adjustment, not releasing the clutch completely. You'll need to pop the hood and watch the cable/firewall while someone depresses the clutch pedal.
Also, your cable may be giving you a warning of it's impending doom. _________________ '80 924 n/a SOLD |
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Raceboy

Joined: 01 Mar 2004 Posts: 2327 Location: Estonia, Europe
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Posted: Wed Jul 27, 2005 4:15 pm Post subject: |
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I recommend to lubricate the clucth cable once a year, no bullshit, experience talking here When cable isn't up to sniff, it causes a lot of bad things: starting with reaking the plastic ends that connect it to clutch lever and pedal, to breaking the firewall. Plus the clutch pedal is so damn hard to push  _________________ '83 924 2.6 16v Turbo, 470hp
'67 911 2.4S hotrod
'90 944 S2 Cabriolet
'78 924 Carrera GT replica
'84 928 S, sold
'91 944 S2, sold
'82 924S/931 "Gulf", sold
'84 924, turbocharged, sold.
http://www.facebook.com/vemsporsche |
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Duncan
Joined: 04 Nov 2002 Posts: 425 Location: Delft, The Netherlands
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Posted: Wed Jul 27, 2005 4:37 pm Post subject: |
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Raceboy,
How do you lubricate the clutch cable and with what ??
I talked to a motor cycle shop and showed them the cable
and they said this kind of plastic covered cable does not
need lubrication ( as opposed to for instance bare metal
Bowden cables).
Please explain, thanks in advance
Duncan |
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Raceboy

Joined: 01 Mar 2004 Posts: 2327 Location: Estonia, Europe
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Posted: Wed Jul 27, 2005 5:43 pm Post subject: |
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In old cables, the plastic covering wears, so that it will prevent the cable to move freely.
How to lubricate?
Take the cable off the car, find some gearbox oil and "inject" (oh, dunno the exact word) it to the cable. It will take some time to lubricate the whole cable but it's definitely worth it. _________________ '83 924 2.6 16v Turbo, 470hp
'67 911 2.4S hotrod
'90 944 S2 Cabriolet
'78 924 Carrera GT replica
'84 928 S, sold
'91 944 S2, sold
'82 924S/931 "Gulf", sold
'84 924, turbocharged, sold.
http://www.facebook.com/vemsporsche |
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crazyinkc
Joined: 10 Nov 2002 Posts: 226 Location: Olathe KS
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Posted: Sat Jul 30, 2005 2:04 am Post subject: |
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| Could be a bad pilot bearing too. |
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