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Has anyone tried the new Dansk repro fuel tank?
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wally509  



Joined: 06 Dec 2024
Posts: 10
Location: Burlington, WI

PostPosted: Sat Dec 07, 2024 8:46 am    Post subject: Has anyone tried the new Dansk repro fuel tank? Reply with quote

Hello,

Sorry for making so many posts as a noob. I responded to a thread about this tank but in the 931 section (which the tank apparently does not fit), it probably should have gone here.

Has anyone bought or installed one of these new tanks yet?

https://jpgroup.dk/en/p/Fuel-tank--62-L/14426371/14426371/

This was my question from the 931 section:

I have a '77 NA and need to do the fuel tank. If I use one of these new Dansk repro tanks, what all will I need to do this? Obviously, I will need the screw in filter with the hose connection, but will I need a different gauge sending unit? I thought the early sending units used a screw on locking ring and the later ones used regular screws. Will I need a new one that uses the screws?

Also, I will definitely want to change the filler hose and whatever breather hoses that are trapped between the tank and the body since it is out. Are there any problems finding any of those or are they just generic fuel hose? The car smells of gas somewhat inside and I get a blast every time I make a hard left turn.

Thanks!
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Kenodog  



Joined: 25 Jun 2003
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Location: Vancouver,B.C.

PostPosted: Thu Dec 19, 2024 7:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm curious why they say this doesn't fit a 931.....

Pretty sure the 924 & 931 have the same tank.
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Kenodog  



Joined: 25 Jun 2003
Posts: 2663
Location: Vancouver,B.C.

PostPosted: Thu Dec 19, 2024 7:43 am    Post subject: Re: Has anyone tried the new Dansk repro fuel tank? Reply with quote

wally509 wrote:
Hello,

Sorry for making so many posts as a noob. I responded to a thread about this tank but in the 931 section (which the tank apparently does not fit), it probably should have gone here.

Has anyone bought or installed one of these new tanks yet?

https://jpgroup.dk/en/p/Fuel-tank--62-L/14426371/14426371/

This was my question from the 931 section:

I have a '77 NA and need to do the fuel tank. If I use one of these new Dansk repro tanks, what all will I need to do this? Obviously, I will need the screw in filter with the hose connection, but will I need a different gauge sending unit? I thought the early sending units used a screw on locking ring and the later ones used regular screws. Will I need a new one that uses the screws?

Also, I will definitely want to change the filler hose and whatever breather hoses that are trapped between the tank and the body since it is out. Are there any problems finding any of those or are they just generic fuel hose? The car smells of gas somewhat inside and I get a blast every time I make a hard left turn.

Thanks!


The hoses are generic metric sizes but there is also a foot long triangular plastic expansion thing that sits on the top of the tank. Tbh, I'm not 100% sure what it's for.

As for the fuel sending unit in the tank the later 924 & the 931's screw into it and use a round black rubber gasket to seal. Not sure about the early 924, never taken one apart.

Depending on your pump setup you can just use the main external pump. If your internal pump is shot then remove it, cut the pump part off while keeping the threaded part in tact then screw it back into the tank and secudlre you hose to the nipple like normal
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1981 931, Sabine
1991 Ford Ranger XLT 4x4, Ricky
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924RACR  



Joined: 29 Jul 2001
Posts: 8889
Location: Royal Oak, MI, USA

PostPosted: Thu Dec 19, 2024 11:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The earlier fuel tank sender fitting has a bayonet style install into the top of the tank; 1/4 turn or so to lock in, vs the 5 or 6 screws of the later style...
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wally509  



Joined: 06 Dec 2024
Posts: 10
Location: Burlington, WI

PostPosted: Fri Dec 20, 2024 12:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks so much for your help!

I apologize, I should have started with the root problem before jumping to "I need to replace this tank".

The problem is the previous owner noticed the fuel pump making excessive noise and I think there were associated running issues. It was found the pre-filter before the pump was clogged with "trash" as he called it. His mechanic decided the solution was to remove the pre-filter altogether, which made the car run again and call it a day without investigating the source of the "trash". Yes, unbelievable. But here I am with it. I didn't notice any running issues, but the pump is loud and the fuel gauge is stuck at 5/8 tank. In the past for me, when a gauge gets stuck with this style of VDO sending unit, it's because the drain holes in the sending unit tube are plugged up by junk.

Since the initial posting I have done some more investigating into the root problem and am starting to re-assess the direction I need to go to fix this.

First off, I have spoken to both the person who restored the car and coated the inside of the tank plus the technical people from the company who made the product he used (POR-15). I have utmost confidence the restorer properly prepped the tank and the tech people at POR-15 insist their product is impervious to ethanol-based fuels.

Also, I have stuck my borescope down the filler neck and attempted to look inside the tank. I could see black with shiny speckles goop/gunk near the entry to the tank, with rather large flakes that look to be peeling off. I could look across the tank to the other side of the car where the sending unit is with the side camera and that all looked really nice with a smooth, silver-gray finish to it (the color of the POR-15 coating). I am going to do more borescoping when it warms up some here as I couldn't really see the bottom where the pickup is or the sides of the tank on the passenger side of the car.

I am starting to wonder if the connector hose from the filler neck to the tank could be breaking down from ethanol?
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924RACR  



Joined: 29 Jul 2001
Posts: 8889
Location: Royal Oak, MI, USA

PostPosted: Fri Dec 20, 2024 12:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Can't speak to the ethanol concerns, but as for the stuck fuel gauge, my experience in sample size of two is that the float inside the sender unit gets stuck due to corrosion on the wires it slides on.

Details with photos here:
http://www.924.org/techsection/technical.htm

Go to section 11, and click on 8 - Fuel Level Sender Cleaning
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Raize  



Joined: 18 Sep 2013
Posts: 281
Location: Scotland

PostPosted: Sun Dec 22, 2024 8:37 am    Post subject: Re: Has anyone tried the new Dansk repro fuel tank? Reply with quote

Kenodog wrote:

Depending on your pump setup you can just use the main external pump. If your internal pump is shot then remove it, cut the pump part off while keeping the threaded part in tact then screw it back into the tank and secudlre you hose to the nipple like normal


Do not do that, they are worth an absolute fortune and are rebuildable.
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Kenodog  



Joined: 25 Jun 2003
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 24, 2024 8:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have scrapped a boat load of these, most of them originals. Seldom whave I found a donor I would rebuild ,lol. A properly maintained motor with a quality main pump ran my old 931 perfectly for years, never a hiccup.

Unfortunately for you Europeans everything is insanely expensive, here things go in the bin because there is just so much of it.
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1981 931, Sabine
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Raize  



Joined: 18 Sep 2013
Posts: 281
Location: Scotland

PostPosted: Wed Dec 25, 2024 3:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kenodog wrote:
I have scrapped a boat load of these, most of them originals. Seldom whave I found a donor I would rebuild ,lol. A properly maintained motor with a quality main pump ran my old 931 perfectly for years, never a hiccup.

Unfortunately for you Europeans everything is insanely expensive, here things go in the bin because there is just so much of it.


I'm actually thinking about swapping my working in-tank pump out for a strainer just so that I can sell it. Easy way to make a week's pay in a couple hours.



It really makes me wonder how we had the early 924 with no in-tank pump, then the later 924 with an in-tank pump, then the 944 with again no in-tank pump?

What changed on the 944 that it could operate with only an external pump? Why did the 924 get an in-tank one in the first place?
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Fifty50Plus  



Joined: 28 Feb 2008
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 25, 2024 4:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

On my race car, I removed the tank to clean out the rust particles near the pickup. I removed the in=tank pump and replaced it with the later plastic filter. I run the car on a factory main pump with no problems as its flow rate is more than sufficient for the higher demands of the race engine.
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Raize  



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PostPosted: Wed Dec 25, 2024 5:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fifty50Plus wrote:
On my race car, I removed the tank to clean out the rust particles near the pickup. I removed the in=tank pump and replaced it with the later plastic filter. I run the car on a factory main pump with no problems as its flow rate is more than sufficient for the higher demands of the race engine.


How low do you ever run the tank though? It's mainly a problem because the external pump can't self-prime.
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924RACR  



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PostPosted: Wed Dec 25, 2024 5:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fifty50Plus wrote:
I run the car on a factory main pump with no problems as its flow rate is more than sufficient for the higher demands of the race engine.


Same here... and we don't run the car below 1/4 tank, to avoid fuel starvation.
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Fifty50Plus  



Joined: 28 Feb 2008
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 25, 2024 5:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

What Vaughan said above. In a hard right turn, all the fuel goes left and leaves the pick-up area dry unless you have about 1/4 tank of fuel. The main pump in its standard location works fine for pick up otherwise. Even an in-tank second pump down in that right hand side tank well will go dry momentarily until you straighten out. Occam's razor.
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Various 944s to become IT-S race car
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Raize  



Joined: 18 Sep 2013
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 27, 2024 4:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fifty50Plus wrote:
Even an in-tank second pump down in that right hand side tank well will go dry momentarily until you straighten out. Occam's razor.



Seems completely pointless then.
I guess it allows you to run the tank below the level of the external pump inlet but you'd be well into the low-fuel-light by then.

Otherwise it'll always re-prime just by siphon effect and it's positive displacement so extra flow from internal pump won't do much to clear an air lock in the "hard right hander" situation.

Anyone know if the early 928 external pump is mounted at a height which would actually justify the use of a lift pump?
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Fifty50Plus  



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PostPosted: Fri Dec 27, 2024 5:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The exit of the fuel tank is at the lowest point of the tank. Inside the tank is where the internal pump (or filter) is. That pump or filter feeds the external pump so no height differences.
The red fuel light is fed from the fuel sender that is put in from the top of the tank and doesn't get down to where the tank exits to the external pump.
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