924Board.org

iambhooper · Joined: 30 Dec 2021 Posts: 13 Location: Greensboro NC

Like the title says, I have a car problem. I just acquired an 87 924s, which is the 7th car I've bought in the past 2 years, and something like the 40teenth car I've had.

Anyway it's a non running S, with just under 100k miles on the odometer. It hasn't run in 15 years, the fuel lines are all rotten, clutch pedal goes to the floor (should there be any "feel" in the shifter?), the hatch latches don't release on their own and there's a little rust in a few spots.

Otherwise it seems okay.

I plan to do the belt service this week and order a full set of rubber fuel lines so I can at least try and start the car. Once I get it running, I can worry about drive ability issues.

Anyway, It's my first Porsche, I race an Acura in SCCA and have numerous projects (some good, most not).

How do I attach pictures?
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Hoop

87 924s (1st Porsche) project
1986 Fiero Gt
1990 DA Integra STL
And some other things

924RACR · Posted: Mon Jan 03, 2022 10:58 pm Post subject:

Welcome aboard! Good to see you here...

I think you said you already got the hatch latches sorted?

Clutch probably needs new master and slave; we usually replace both at the same time, and also the reservoir hose (reservoir is shared with the brakes) because bleeding is such a massive PITA and they often last about the same duration, so you could easily be having to go through the same painful bleed twice.

Nothing particularly special to the actual cylinder swaps. To bleed - I've found the best/easiest method is to use a vacuum bleed BEFORE installing the slave cylinder into the bellhousing. The bleeder is at the back of the slave, and getting it oriented to have the bubbles go to the top by the bleeder is extremely hard unless you remove it and hang it at an odd angle.

Sometimes it still doesn't even feel quite great and needs to be let set overnight after bleeding, maybe even bled a second time the next day, before it's happy.

Not sure what you mean about "feel' in the shifter - you mean when you're trying the clutch? I wouldn't expect so. Though speaking of you'll probably have a sloppy shifter due to wear; peel back the boot to look for slop where the lever joins the shift rod, often the lever needs to be replaced. Might as well get new shift lever bushings while at it.

No provisions for directly hosting pics on this board, but they can be linked in from elsewhere; many will upload to another board like rennlist and link over...
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Vaughan Scott
Webmeister
'79 924 #77 SCCA H Prod racecar
'82 931 Plat. Silver
#25 Hidari Firefly P2 sports prototype

morghen · Joined: 21 Jan 2005 Posts: 8883 Location: Romania

iambhooper · Joined: 30 Dec 2021 Posts: 13 Location: Greensboro NC

thanks! I don't really use an image host anymore, as the forum I spend the predominate amount of time on allows me to upload a pic.... no biggie, there is always the book of faces.

sounds like I'm going to have some fun with the clutch system... that may even be more work that getting everything else fixed!

Is there a source for replacement sunroof drains, or am I own my own fabricating something?
_________________
Hoop

87 924s (1st Porsche) project
1986 Fiero Gt
1990 DA Integra STL
And some other things

924RACR · Posted: Tue Jan 04, 2022 8:51 am Post subject:

The sunroof drains would typically just get clogged, and need to be blown out with compressed air... definitely start there.
_________________
Vaughan Scott
Webmeister
'79 924 #77 SCCA H Prod racecar
'82 931 Plat. Silver
#25 Hidari Firefly P2 sports prototype

iambhooper · Joined: 30 Dec 2021 Posts: 13 Location: Greensboro NC

Kenodog · Joined: 25 Jun 2003 Posts: 2651 Location: Vancouver,B.C.

iambhooper · Joined: 30 Dec 2021 Posts: 13 Location: Greensboro NC

924RACR · Posted: Tue Jan 04, 2022 10:24 pm Post subject:

I'd peel back the carpet, and look from the inside with a bright light in the engine bay. Straightforward enough to repair once stuff is out of the way... like the brake master/booster, maybe the engine and mount, etc... and fire up the welder, slap a patch in there...

So access is likely the biggest problem, if you do have cracks.

If you don't - remove and lubricate the pedal pivots for brake and clutch, to prevent cracking! We believe that's usually the cause, when the grease/lube dries out...

Edit: though I'd expect an S, being later construction and likely fewer miles, would be less likely to have that vs. an early car...
_________________
Vaughan Scott
Webmeister
'79 924 #77 SCCA H Prod racecar
'82 931 Plat. Silver
#25 Hidari Firefly P2 sports prototype

iambhooper · Joined: 30 Dec 2021 Posts: 13 Location: Greensboro NC

Kenodog · Joined: 25 Jun 2003 Posts: 2651 Location: Vancouver,B.C.

I was suggesting if you did have cracks and plan to keep the cars then the pain to fix it properly is worth it in the long run. Here is a pic of the Only944 firewall brace on my '81 931 :

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1979 Euro 931, Olive
1981 931, Sabine
1991 Ford Ranger XLT 4x4, Ricky
1996 Ford E-350 ex-FedEx Van
2014 Mazda CX-5 (Kinderwagon)
2019 KTM 790 Adventure
2024 KLX300
2024 KLX140

924RACR · Posted: Wed Jan 05, 2022 8:32 am Post subject:

iambhooper · Joined: 30 Dec 2021 Posts: 13 Location: Greensboro NC

iambhooper · Joined: 30 Dec 2021 Posts: 13 Location: Greensboro NC

I took a little time yesterday, to remove the afm, airbox and fan shroud, so we can do the timing service. The ac compressor is completely locked up, but wint get replaced in this process.

Looking from underneath, the master cylinder and booster area appears dry (the reservoir is full), het the clutch pedal goes to floor... I'll have to look at the pedal assembly.

The shifter seems really numb, like it only finds one or two gears. Where are the shift rods?

Fuel... can I order a new fuel tank? If I need one, there's a lot of rust everywhere, and I can't guarantee something won't break when I pull the line's.

Lastly, I hot the sunroof open and off. I will update on the drains later.
_________________
Hoop

87 924s (1st Porsche) project
1986 Fiero Gt
1990 DA Integra STL
And some other things

924RACR · Posted: Wed Jan 05, 2022 11:34 pm Post subject:

Could try just giving the clutch hydraulics a bleed, as described, with the Mightvac... would only cost time...

There is only one shift rod, running from the shift lever directly back to the trans on top of the torque tube. There is a bolted connection at the back; perhaps that's slipped loose? It's a specific bolt with a tapered end to seat in a divot on the trans selector shaft; can be cross-drilled for safety wire, not a bad idea (unless they maybe come stock that way?).

Fuel tank can be removed and slushed... I don't know that new are even available...
_________________
Vaughan Scott
Webmeister
'79 924 #77 SCCA H Prod racecar
'82 931 Plat. Silver
#25 Hidari Firefly P2 sports prototype