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[MikeDanger]

since the engine isnt running now(havent checked it out yet) but anyway...

I was having a shifting problem.
It was grinding when going into gear, and i had to jam it real quikly.
I thought it was just that i needed to bleed the clutch. and this last time i drove the car(when the motor died) I bled the clutch a tiny bit, saw to tiny bubles and eveything seemed OK.
Brake pedal felt good, clutch pedal felt good, spun it around the parking lot and it shifted fine.
Then as i took it on down the street, first mile went fine, then at the next stop light, i got a tiny bit of grinding, and even more at the next light. and just as i came to the last light, the brake pedal had to go 3/4 of the way to start braking and i had to stand on it to stop.

SO, im thinking somethings going on related to the brakes and the clutch, I will say that the brake fluid when i bled the cltuch the fluid look a little foggy, but it was light colored. also the resivour was full, infact it seemed to be a little higher when after i stopped the car.

any ideas??
I dont want to tear up this tranny(g31)

Mike
80 931

[JvGinPDX]

A friend had this problem in his old Volvo. It turned out to be metal fatigue in the shift fork. He would do the clutch adjustment, everything was fine for a little while, then the problem would surface again.

I hope it is not your shift fork, it would be a PITA to get to.

[JvGinPDX]

You needed to stand on the brakes because the bent shift fork is not disengaging the engine.

[JvGinPDX]

I bet that your engine will not run for the same reason.

[Lizard]

try starting the car in neutral. also I has a hell of a time starting my car after having my windshield replaced as they disconnected the brake booster vaccuum so check that that could give braking and running issues

[Smoothie]

I would also suspect the pilot bearing is shot. If it starts in neutral, that would increase the suspicion.

[Joes924]

Does it leak,Mike if so when you press the pedasl brake and clutch you could have metal fatigue around the firewall I did and the padels were moving with firewall I stiffend
the whole area up with some 20 guade 6"steel stud materialand framing screws.

[MikeDanger]

No its nto the shift fork I hat the tranny cover off and it was fine.
The car is fine when you first start it, but it seems either after it warms up or after ive pushed the pedals a few times it when it happens.
When i first start the car the pedals all feel firm,
When i had to push the brake pedal all the way comming to a stop light it was in neutral.

[Smoothie]

Excuse me for taking a stab in the dark, but could the brake/clutch fluid be getting overheated somehow - maybe boiling. Something like this could account for the level being higher after driving - that is what you said, right? Also, the way you describe that fluid doesn't sound right. Might just need to replace it and bleed the old stuff out of the lines. Maybe whatever's wrong with that fluid lets it overheat and act differently.

Beyond that, if the clutch fork, pilot bearing, and firewall are alright, my next thing to look at would be the master cylinder(s).

[ This Message was edited by: Smoothie on 2002-08-30 06:57 ]

[Lizard]

no i would say your brake booster is shot has a vaccuum leak or check the vaccuum lines going to it it might be hot air that is causing it

[MikeDanger]

OK if the brake booster were bad woudl it affect the clutch?

Remeber when the car is cold, or just started things work OK

[Smoothie]

A bad (or good) brake booster doesn't affect the clutch in any way.

[JPAB924]

OK. this sounds like you have 2 diff. problems. I believe you are having some sort of vacuum problem..lets start with your brake booster first. First start your car (in order to build up vacuum) 2nd: check your brake travel while the car is running. It should feel soft (like you have some assist) 3rd: shut engine off and you should have assist for at least a couple of strokes, and then pedal should feel hard(stiff) anything else would mean you have a bad booster. Also, if you have a bad diaphragm in the booster you would have a vacuum leak which you would be able to tell by a engine that runs rough at idle or dies at a stop.

[JPAB924]

You know what I`m wondering? Joe Danka had cracks in his firewall where his pedals attatched to. If you have these cracks I think your brake pedal and clutch pedal would have to travel extra distance thus causing your clutch to grind and seemingly your brake pedal to go in too far. This is just a thought....

[MikeDanger]

well i dont think what would come and go.

Remebers when i bled the clutch i had someone push it in while i watched the slave cylinder operatea and it pushed the clutch for all the way.
and when i first started it, it drove fine for the first couple of miles.

and it seemed both the brake and clutch went south about the same time. I figure since they both use the sam reivour they are some hwo tied in.