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Replacement bellows (Turbo to metering plate)?
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CorsePerVita  



Joined: 25 Jul 2008
Posts: 1992
Location: Redmond, Oregon

PostPosted: Mon Jul 21, 2014 8:46 am    Post subject: Replacement bellows (Turbo to metering plate)? Reply with quote

Mine is starting to crack in some places. I pulled it off to inspect the bellows between the metering plate and turbo and there is no cracks through it (yet) but don't want to wait till that happens.

HOWEVER, the issue seems to be after searching on a few different parts sites that it is NLA. Has anyone replaced it with a different setup? Perhaps gone with the silicone stuff and perhaps a bent adapter of sorts?

This is part # 931-110-138-04 according to the diagrams I've found.
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- 1977 Porsche 924 2.0 N/A (Trackday Project)
- 1979 Porsche 924 2.0 N/A (The other daily)
- 1980 Porsche 931 (Daily)
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Fasteddie313  



Joined: 29 Sep 2013
Posts: 2595
Location: MI

PostPosted: Mon Jul 21, 2014 3:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

there is a lot of information on the piping sizes in this thread

http://www.924board.org/viewtopic.php?t=39756&highlight=

for the original 931 turbo its the same size between the dizzy and the compressor housing intake..

i would think that a 2.25" or a 2.5" on a 30-45 degree elbow would do the trick, they can be had on ebay for a steal if your patient usually...
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Rasta Monsta  



Joined: 12 Jul 2006
Posts: 11733
Location: PacNW

PostPosted: Mon Jul 21, 2014 4:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

NLA, too bad. Glad I bought a new one when I first got the car.

Ideally the replacement should flex. . .remember the engine moves and the dizzy is fixed to the body.

PS ECS Tuning show stock?
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CorsePerVita  



Joined: 25 Jul 2008
Posts: 1992
Location: Redmond, Oregon

PostPosted: Mon Jul 21, 2014 11:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fasteddie313 wrote:
there is a lot of information on the piping sizes in this thread

http://www.924board.org/viewtopic.php?t=39756&highlight=

for the original 931 turbo its the same size between the dizzy and the compressor housing intake..

i would think that a 2.25" or a 2.5" on a 30-45 degree elbow would do the trick, they can be had on ebay for a steal if your patient usually...


The bend looks pretty mild, we have a local place that sells silicone tubing of all sizes that is thick and great for engine applications. Used them for my 924 N/A on my ITBs and it was a great fit. I measured the outside diameter and got 2 4/10". I'll drop by and see if they have something similar to that today.

Rasta Monsta wrote:
NLA, too bad. Glad I bought a new one when I first got the car.

Ideally the replacement should flex. . .remember the engine moves and the dizzy is fixed to the body.

PS ECS Tuning show stock?


Yeah I don't want a totally solid fixture, just a small elbow to allow me to hook up some silicone hose, that stuff flexes well enough. But that's certainly a good reminder to keep wary of. I'll see what I can find. Sucks that it's NLA but that's pretty much the story of my life lately with my cars.

I didn't check to see if ECS or EBS had anything, good point. I checked pelican. Perhaps somewhere out there has them, or one left. If not, no biggie, I'll figure something out I suppose. Hope all is well for you up there in PDX.
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- 1977 Porsche 924 2.0 N/A (Trackday Project)
- 1979 Porsche 924 2.0 N/A (The other daily)
- 1980 Porsche 931 (Daily)
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CorsePerVita  



Joined: 25 Jul 2008
Posts: 1992
Location: Redmond, Oregon

PostPosted: Mon Jul 21, 2014 11:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok, ECS has one. I ordered it. Anything else I should order for "while i'm down there" or do "while I'm down there" that You'd recommend, James? I'm pretty new to the turbo world. I've read that it's worth redoing the wastegate, it doesn't sound too expensive to do and "worth the peace of mind" ??

This is currently my daily driver now, so I obviously want to ensure it's taken care of properly.
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- 1977 Porsche 924 2.0 N/A (Trackday Project)
- 1979 Porsche 924 2.0 N/A (The other daily)
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Fasteddie313  



Joined: 29 Sep 2013
Posts: 2595
Location: MI

PostPosted: Tue Jul 22, 2014 3:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

i wouldn't pull the wastgate if i was you unless you suspect it to be faulty in some way...

just saying, all of those exhaust flange bolts are killer to get off, they are hard to get at to the extreme, and heat rusted so a very high chance of breaking them.. that means WAR...

next time i pull my turbo i plan to pull it out the back still attatched to the exhaust complete with the wastegate all in one shot. instead of forward...

2 oil feed line nuts
2 oil drain line bolts
3 turbo to manifold bolts
compressor piping
2 j pipe to manifold bolts
2 wastegate bracket mounts
1 wastegate air pressure signal line
exhaust hangers

and i think it will all slide out rearwards with the wastegate, j pipe and turbo still on the exhaust pipe... because the exhaust pipe flange to the wastegate is quite close to imposible to get at especially putting it back on..

for that you will need a 13mm 6pt socket on a universal with extensions, a 13mm stubby box end/open end, and some random bigger spanner to push your stubby with, and a ratcheting 13 will save you a lot of time getting a couple of those nuts on/off the rest of those studs but wont fit with the nuts close to tight..

exhaust to turbo flange you will need a 17mm deep well 6pt socket and a universal and about a 6" extention on a ratchet, you can somewhat work the ratchet up inside its bowels with that method, that will get all of them and is much easier than that wastegate flange X5..

but while your down there doing that rubber intake boot there is a little 90 that connects your BOV blow off valve to the vaccume system right next to it there... youll see it coming off of the compressor housing towards the front engine side of the comp housing and attatches to a steel pipe that runs behind your timing belt..

some say it cant be changed with the turbo in place but i was able to do mine, put oil in the rubber elbow to ease the process, put it way too far onto the steel pipe, index it toward the other pipe, and slip it on the BOV while sliding it off of the other pipe until its about in the middle, then put good hose clapms around it and start/tighten them in place..
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Last edited by Fasteddie313 on Tue Jul 22, 2014 3:53 am; edited 1 time in total
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Fasteddie313  



Joined: 29 Sep 2013
Posts: 2595
Location: MI

PostPosted: Tue Jul 22, 2014 3:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

oh and just a cheater tip...

the OD of the lower charge pipe (where its ID attaches to the compressor) fits the ID of that rubber boot/bellows just about perfect like... just noticed because i had the parts sitting around and they conveniently stick together quite nicely..

so if you just take that lower charge pipe with you to find something that will fit you have a great go/no-go kind of gauge/test fitting..

ill probably be searching for something also because i think i may have indexed my compressor housing just a touch off and that boot really doesn't want to do its job, hard as hell to get on...

i indexed it to the charge piping, and its great there, next time ill know better, but theres no changing the indexing without pulling the whole turbo again witch is not an easy job.. and shes running great as is ATM...
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CorsePerVita  



Joined: 25 Jul 2008
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Location: Redmond, Oregon

PostPosted: Tue Jul 22, 2014 5:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ECS called me back and said the part is apparently NOT in stock, and is NLA. So I'm back to square one. (at least they refunded my money)
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- 1977 Porsche 924 2.0 N/A (Trackday Project)
- 1979 Porsche 924 2.0 N/A (The other daily)
- 1980 Porsche 931 (Daily)
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- 1999 Ducati 900SS
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CorsePerVita  



Joined: 25 Jul 2008
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Location: Redmond, Oregon

PostPosted: Tue Jul 22, 2014 7:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dan recommended I try to use a 45 degree bent piece of silicone. I went ahead and ordered one. Will see if it fits when it arrives, aside from that I'm SOL.
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- 1977 Porsche 924 2.0 N/A (Trackday Project)
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Fasteddie313  



Joined: 29 Sep 2013
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 22, 2014 9:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

CorsePerVita wrote:
Dan recommended I try to use a 45 degree bent piece of silicone. I went ahead and ordered one. Will see if it fits when it arrives, aside from that I'm SOL.


its not the end of the world..

your going to have to cut your hose down yourself but you even have your old one for a pattern

and I recommend getting some quality hose clamps, the bolt kind or a heavier worm screw kind..

that isn't a very hard to access spot on the car, if you can get comfortable underneath it in some fashion that is..
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CorsePerVita  



Joined: 25 Jul 2008
Posts: 1992
Location: Redmond, Oregon

PostPosted: Tue Jul 22, 2014 9:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fasteddie313 wrote:
CorsePerVita wrote:
Dan recommended I try to use a 45 degree bent piece of silicone. I went ahead and ordered one. Will see if it fits when it arrives, aside from that I'm SOL.


its not the end of the world..

your going to have to cut your hose down yourself but you even have your old one for a pattern

and I recommend getting some quality hose clamps, the bolt kind or a heavier worm screw kind..

that isn't a very hard to access spot on the car, if you can get comfortable underneath it in some fashion that is..


It's certainly easy to access, I'm not worried about that. Just a pain to have to fabricate something instead of using the right part. But I'll live, is what it is. Meh.
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- 1977 Porsche 924 2.0 N/A (Trackday Project)
- 1979 Porsche 924 2.0 N/A (The other daily)
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Rasta Monsta  



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PostPosted: Tue Jul 22, 2014 11:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fasteddie greatly overstates the difficulty of removing the wastegate.

Replacing the diaphragm before failure is 100x more wise than waiting for a failure and perhaps overboosting/losing an engine. If you are committed to keeping a 931, it is a true no brainer.
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Paul  



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PostPosted: Tue Jul 22, 2014 12:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

What is really unwise is to bypass the over boost cut out switch.
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CorsePerVita  



Joined: 25 Jul 2008
Posts: 1992
Location: Redmond, Oregon

PostPosted: Tue Jul 22, 2014 1:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rasta Monsta wrote:
Fasteddie greatly overstates the difficulty of removing the wastegate.

Replacing the diaphragm before failure is 100x more wise than waiting for a failure and perhaps overboosting/losing an engine. If you are committed to keeping a 931, it is a true no brainer.


Fair point. I saw that you had put up a rebuild article (really detailed, thanks for posting that) on how to rebuild the wastegate. That will be a soon in the near future project.

Currently have ordered all the gaskets and washers to seal and button up the oil supply lines (a few have started to leak a bit and it's just needing to be done).

Recent valve adjustment, moved over to one of those awesome brass machined oil elbows for the top end, new fresh gaskets and timing belt and tensioner, air filter, went through the vacuum lines. She purrs like a kitten. Just down to fixing little shit here and there.

Paul wrote:
What is really unwise is to bypass the over boost cut out switch.


Yeah no desire to do that. I pretty much want to keep the car stock. Once I do the wastegate I'll probably bump it to the 1 bar spring, but that's probably it. *fingers crossed that I don't want to do more lol

I also would love to replace the front seats and rear carpet.
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- 1977 Porsche 924 2.0 N/A (Trackday Project)
- 1979 Porsche 924 2.0 N/A (The other daily)
- 1980 Porsche 931 (Daily)
- 1987 Lamborghini Jalpa
- 1999 Ducati 900SS
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Fasteddie313  



Joined: 29 Sep 2013
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 22, 2014 2:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rasta Monsta wrote:
Fasteddie greatly overstates the difficulty of removing the wastegate.



most difficult thing ive encountered on my car for sure is that wastegate dump pipe flange...
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