924Board.org

[brian19600]

When I bought my 924 a couple months ago, it already had new "Uro parts" lift struts. The problem was, I had to put a good deal of my weight into getting the hatch to close. I can see where this would greatly increase problems with frame delamination. I don't know if others have this same problem.
I went to liftsupportsdepot.com and did some research on struts. It turns out the spec on the 924/944 lift strut is 69 lbs. of lift per strut. That comes out to 138 lbs. total.

So I took a digital bathroom scale, and with the struts removed, simulated the struts lifting the rear hatch (probably not the most scientific!) It came out to about 35 lbs of lift was necessary to raise the hatch. It seem like those struts were providing a lot more force than necessary. Please note that my rear hatch is the older kind-without the spoiler. This may or may not make a difference in weight.

Now you engineers will probably come back with all kinds of reasons why I am inaccurate......... angles, and force and physics and all that good stuff, but bottom line, I had to put a significant amount of weight into that poor hatch to get it to close!

So the lift support website was really good for helping me pick another set of struts. I found a set with open/closed dimensions very similar, it had electrical connections, and best of all, each strut had 52 pounds of lift. They are the Strongarm #4761 -these are also used on Jeep Wrangler rear hatches in the 80's.

I got them in 2 days. They were $30.80 shipped. Big difference! I was able to close my hatch with one firm hand. It still is plenty strong not to be blown down by a breeze.

My only concern is the hook up for the rear window defogger. It wasn't hooked up when I bought the car and although the terminals look the same as the Uro parts version, I thought I read something about the way one strut powers and the other acts as a ground.

Brian
_________________
78 924

[bear924]

Hi Brian,

You've probably sorted this by now however I would think that the polarity of the heating element isn't a major concern for you. The reason being is that heaters are generally just resistance, which isn't affected by polarity. If you connected the defogger incorrectly the worst you should do is blow the fuse supplying the defogger (as you'll have a power supply connected directly to ground.) If that happens, change the polarity (switch around your two wires) and try again. If the fuse blows again you may have a bigger issue.

May also be worth using a ohm meter to determine which connection is ground, this might save you a fuse.

[brian19600]

Actually I haven't had the car running yet as I have had the dash out doing repairs, putting carpeting in, battery is out to repair hole in battery tray, etc.

I thought the original cylinders were different part numbers because the way they handled the current going thru them...maybe one grounds to the body and one doesn't?
_________________
78 924

[txjake]

thanks, I put some of the required replacement struts on my 78 and after a short while, I couldn't open my hatch b/c of the pressure exerted by them. Currently, I am running w/o them. I may try the strut you mentioned. OTOH, do I need the struts installed to make the defroster back there work? Couldn't I jumper those connections somehow? don't really care if the hatch wil lrise up by itself.
_________________
1978 924, aka The Red Rocker

[brian19600]

I would think you could jumper it if your want. But as you know, the cylinders don't just lift the hatch but more importantly, hold it up. Of course, some use broomsticks, etc. which is fine if you seldom go in there.
_________________
78 924

[txjake]

[GeorgeV]

I read about this problem on the board before doing something about my struts that would not keep the hatch up. I had a strut regasser come and look at the car, He didn't have any struts that could match the wiring for the defogger so he said he could regas them. But I got him to regas only to 50% or 70% (IIRC) of full capacity to avoid delamination from struts with too much force.

I have read on the board that a similar problem can occur when fitting hood struts. With too much force they can make the hood stick up above the guards.
_________________
1981 932 with mods:
http://www.924board.org/viewtopic.php?t=37921

[Joes924Racer]

automotion has early struts for 29.95. listed for 944 and 24s.
_________________
1979 porsche 924 Na
1980 porsche Turbo 931GT Replica
Have u ever driven a turbo.

[ThomasJoseph315]

I had the same exact problem tonight. I got new lift supports same as you and I could hear the frame struggling to maintain. When I turned the key the window flew open like a catapult. This is entirely unnecessary force for this hatch.

Thanks for doing the leg work for the wrangler struts I'll give them a try.

[ThomasJoseph315]

Here is Napa lift supports for the wrangler...

BK 8195373
http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Window-Lift-Support/_/R-BK_8195373_0145184168

[MikesCoupeGT]

I just got my new Hatch Struts and installed them yesterday on the 924. I bought the set listed for the 944, as my hatch is from a 944 and not the original that came with the car. It seems to open pretty easily and close well. I am a paranoid person by nature, so I keep a hand on the hatch as it is opening and closing. In fact I use two hands to close the hatch. One on each side. LOL.

So far so good and no delamination on my hatch.
_________________
Cheers;
MikesCoupeGT
'76 924
'83 944
''19 Elantra GT N-Line

[Joes924Racer]

Rock auto carries em too. cheaper.
_________________
1979 porsche 924 Na
1980 porsche Turbo 931GT Replica
Have u ever driven a turbo.