924Board.org

[Honda Killer]

Hello i just bought a 87 924S full records in reall good shape other than dash and driver seat but did come with real sheep skin covers so i cant complain, and it has 163,000 miles runs great though has been taken really good care of. Im actullay a benz guy (86 560sel 82 300d turbo Diesel and 1 really bad 84 190E Grey market) and in my 1 hour or so ive already learned that the only problem that bugged me about the car (rough idel) is motor mounts which is really cool because i didnt want screw with adjusting any thing. Anyway just saying Hi and thanks,already!!

[Cbass]

My one piece of advice. Read the FAQ on the 924.org site

[eturbo924]

Welcome to the board. Make sure you check that timing belt.

Eric

[minime]

How do you check the timing belt?

Is it easy? Or do you need a mechanic?

[JPAB924]

How do you check a t-belt?...hmmm thats pretty easy. T-belts are made of rubber and rubber always has a tendency to dryrot over time. I would begin by taking off the t-belt cover and physically looking at the belt for signs of drycracking. (look inbetween the teeth of the belt for obvious signs) anywhoo most modern cars can go anywhere between 60 and 105 k between t-belt changes. I`m not sure of time or mileage intervals for the porsche. Anyone have an owners manual with the recommended time/mileage intervals?

[JPAB924]

Ok by the way...is this 2.0L motor an interference type? I know the t-belt on my motor is unused, but the eng. has been sitting unused for the last 8 years....All i wanna do is fire it up and hear it run and change it out after everything is said and done..

[teo]

nop, the 2.0L engine is non-interference

[D Hook]

Hey whoa guys! Hondakiller said in his opening post he has an '87. Definetley IS an interference engine.

Hondakiller, you might want to post your question furthur down the page in the 924S area so you don't get conflicting info from the owners of earlier 924's. Onwers of newer 924S's like yours have a whole different set of rules for timing belts. Generally speaking, from what I've learned here, if you don't have documents/records, sworn testimony from a Porsche mechanic that the belt was changed withing the last 30,000 miles, CHANGE IT! Or have it changed. Check the FAQ.

[ This Message was edited by: D Hook on 2002-07-26 21:04 ]

[Honda Killer]

Thanks for all the replys and advice im deffintley going to have checked this weekend it has died on me now twice both times acted like it ran out of fule and both times fired back up and ran like nothing ever happened. its really weird and is concering me. i do have records showing a t-belt change and water pump change 2,000 mi algo som im not woried about that. And was stmaped by a porshce dealer in Anehim CA i think. there like three diffrent CA Porsche stamps on the Books from diffrent dealers.

[924RACR]

Could also be the relay that powers the fuel pump/DME...

_________________
Vaughan Scott
Webmeister
'79 924 #77 SCCA H Prod racecar
'82 931 Plat. Silver
#25 Hidari Firefly P2 sports prototype

[Honda Killer]

Where would that be. Is it under the hood or the dash. Im still wating for my book to get here. No parts store in my area had one so i ordered it from JC whitney which means i could be another year befor i see it.

[gohim]

The DME relay is under the dashboard, located on the fuse and relay panel, above and to the left of the clutch pedal.

The DME relay is on the top row, 2nd from the left. DME relay failure is pretty common, and I recommend that 924S/944 owners purchase a spare relay, and keep it in the glove box for emergencies.

In your case, I suggest that you purchase a new relay, and install it inplace of your existing DME relay to see if it will cure your problem. If it does, then toss the old one, and buy another new one to keep as a spare.

Some other possibilities that could cause your engine to die going over bumps would be: a bad connection inside of your DME box (ignition/fuel injection computer box), a bad connection at the fuel pump, or a bad connection at in the rear of the fuse/realy panel.

It is possible that one of the PO (previous owner/s) of your car did some work, or had some work done to the electrical system (install a stereo or alarm for instance), pulled down the fuse/relay panel, knocking a wire, or connector loose on the rear of the fuse/relay panel, causing your problem with the engine dying.

The DME boxes also sometime develop bad connections over time. Some people test this by banging on the box while the engine is running to see if the engine shuts off.

I would start with the replacement of the DME relay, you need a spare anyway, even if your is still good.

[gohim]

If your timing and balance shaft belts were replaced 2K miles ago, it is critically important that you take the car in and have the belts retensioned RIGHT NOW!

New belts stretch a significant amount, and at 2K miles, they will have stretched enough to allow the belts to start bouncing off the inside of the timing belt cover and damage themselves, or they could become loose enough to skip timing, or jump off, resulting in cylinder head damage, or total destruction of the engine.

The belts must be retensioned at 2K miles, and then inspected and retensioned every 10K miles. At 30K miles or 3 years (whichever comes first), the belts must be replaced.

[ This Message was edited by: gohim on 2002-07-27 04:40 ]

[Honda Killer]

Thanks for the info it is going down saturday for a full chek up.

[gohim]

Great, when you take your car in, before you let anybody touch it, make sure that the shop has the "P9201" Porsche Belt Tension Gauge, and they know how to use it properly.

This is the only tool way will tension the belts properly. DO NOT LET ANY SHOP WORK ON YOUR CAR'S ENGINE, IF THEY DO NOT OWN THIS TOOL! Make them show it to you, and explain how it is used. If the mechanic can not do this, he is not qualified to work on your 924S.