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944 engine mount retro fit?
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Euro924S2  



Joined: 06 Mar 2008
Posts: 215
Location: UK

PostPosted: Sun Mar 04, 2012 11:06 am    Post subject: 944 engine mount retro fit? Reply with quote

Sure it's been discussed before but again the search function gives no answers.

Obviously I'll need to change the crossmember for a 24s or 44 one and then fabricate some brackets to go from the block etc but has anyone done this and if so, was the hydraulic damping worth all the effort? Also, with the 44 crossmember, can the engine be lowered, or does it have to stay the same height?

I'm fitting a 944 power steering rack anyway so no bother there.

Cheers, John.
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ideola  



Joined: 01 Oct 2004
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Location: Spring Lake MI

PostPosted: Sun Mar 04, 2012 11:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think it was ic932 that has a writeup in the engine swap section on this mod. In addition to the front cross member, you might also need to cut out the rear early-style engine mount brackets, as they may interfere with the 2.5L motor.
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Rasta Monsta  



Joined: 12 Jul 2006
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 04, 2012 3:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Raceboy used an early crossmember to mount a 2.5. Do a search.
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Euro924S2  



Joined: 06 Mar 2008
Posts: 215
Location: UK

PostPosted: Sun Mar 04, 2012 8:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sorry, maybe not made my intention clear. I'm keeping my supercharged 931 engine but looking at engine mount solutions. One option is vibra tech ones, or just keep my perfectly ok stock ones, but I was reading in a Porsche history book that the hydraulic one fitted to the 944 were a huge improvement - but obviously a lot of the smoothness will be from the balance shafts so I'm just trying to find out anyone's experience, both in mount function and installation headaches!

So my question was really, Has anyone fitted the 944 engine mounts to a 931/ 924na engine? Like I say, done a search but just reams of other topics rather than anything on this.

Cheers. John
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UK spec '83 N/A with 931 motor with Eaton MP62 'charger @ 15psi. EFI - 565cc inj. Standalone Adaptronic ECU. 951 FMIC. Ally rad. Twin throttle. Recirc valve. Custom manifolds and CAI. 232bhp
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Rasta Monsta  



Joined: 12 Jul 2006
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 05, 2012 3:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Aha. Doesn't seem like a good swap. . .the 931 hangs from its mounts while the 2.5 sits on them, and the only 2.5 mounts worth using (OEM 951 units) are insanely expensive.

I am running the Vibratechs, and they are harder than stock, so no joy getting less vibration out of them.
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leadfoot  



Joined: 11 Dec 2002
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 05, 2012 8:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I did a how to on retrofitting an engine shock/damper, I did this after fitting the sc and was getting noticable vibration through the accel pedal, it was also to control engine torque/vibration as the sc was not too far away from the frame rail and the intake manifold was also close to the brake booster...
The other thing you can do is to inject urethane into the stock hanger (non spring mount) if you want to stiffen it up a little
stu
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kcoyle  



Joined: 15 Jan 2011
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Location: Long Island, NY

PostPosted: Mon Mar 05, 2012 9:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rasta Monsta wrote:

I am running the Vibratechs, and they are harder than stock, so no joy getting less vibration out of them.


Is this with the "road" version of the mounts?

Also, it appears OEM mounts are NLA for the 931, yes? So this is the only option?
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Rasta Monsta  



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PostPosted: Mon Mar 05, 2012 11:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, the "road" ones are pretty stiff.
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Euro924S2  



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PostPosted: Thu Mar 08, 2012 7:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Interesting to hear the road version are pretty hard. I'd heard they really improve the feel of the car in the corners since they tighten everything up, but if vibration on cruise is increased then that will detract from the GT nature of the car I like at present.

I realised the 931 hangs from its mounts, but I was thinking of making new brackets so it would 'sit' on the 944 ones as intended.

I was hoping the 944 ones would damp the vibration but keep everything tight in the turns.

Rasta - would you say for street use the road VT ones are better or worse than a good set of OEM ones?

Lead foot: I need to check out your how too. Tbh I don't have any problems with anything hitting etc I'm just keen to make the car feel 'well bolted together'.

Thanks for the input guys. John
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Cedric  



Joined: 27 Aug 2004
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 08, 2012 4:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Euro924S2 wrote:
Interesting to hear the road version are pretty hard. I'd heard they really improve the feel of the car in the corners since they tighten everything up, but if vibration on cruise is increased then that will detract from the GT nature of the car I like at present.

I realised the 931 hangs from its mounts, but I was thinking of making new brackets so it would 'sit' on the 944 ones as intended.

I was hoping the 944 ones would damp the vibration but keep everything tight in the turns.

Rasta - would you say for street use the road VT ones are better or worse than a good set of OEM ones?

Lead foot: I need to check out your how too. Tbh I don't have any problems with anything hitting etc I'm just keen to make the car feel 'well bolted together'.

Thanks for the input guys. John


Worse !

I got a set of track VT when i bought the engine, they were stupidly stiff. So I then change to road. Most vibrations disapered but it still wibrate some at idle, not silk smooth but really ok for me. The do really tighten things up though if you plan to push your car, a really nice feeling.

I have tried a original mint condition 931, and that car was impressivly smooth, to bad OEM:s are so expensive/not buyable...

I would guess 944 are rather soft even when pushed. I compared some in car video of me in my 931 and my pal in his race 944S2. The gear linkage is very different but you could really see his gear lever moving around alot, even with reinforced OEM. Mine is completely still
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kcoyle  



Joined: 15 Jan 2011
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Location: Long Island, NY

PostPosted: Thu Mar 08, 2012 10:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cédric wrote:

I have tried a original mint condition 931, and that car was impressivly smooth, to bad OEM:s are so expensive/not buyable...


So it looks like VT road are my only option for new mounts. Is replacement do-able with engine in the car?
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ideola  



Joined: 01 Oct 2004
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 08, 2012 11:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, if you have a means to lift the engine (cherry picker or hoist).

If you want a set of the VT mounts, I am setup as a US reseller for them.
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Rasta Monsta  



Joined: 12 Jul 2006
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 09, 2012 1:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I tried hard to replace them in the car. Yes, I am a big pansy, but I could not budge the hex bolts that hold the mounting "arm" to the block on the passenger's side.
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ideola  



Joined: 01 Oct 2004
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Location: Spring Lake MI

PostPosted: Fri Mar 09, 2012 1:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't understand why you need to remove the mounting arms to swap the motor mounts? It should be as simple as getting the lift on the engine lifting points, hitting the two top nuts and the one bottom nut with an impact gun on each side. Lower motor to clear the two stud posts on top of the motor mounts. Remove old motor mounts. Install new motor mounts. Lift motor back up. Reinstall nuts.

I could be forgetting some important points, but there should be enough play in the torque tube tunnel to lift and lower the engine enough to do this. What I'm not sure about is whether the exhaust components or water hoses might need to be disconnected. The last time I used the above method was on the new engine install for the 941...
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Rasta Monsta  



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PostPosted: Fri Mar 09, 2012 2:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

So you have actually pulled this off? It was years ago, but at the time I concluded that the arm would have to come off. I could be wrong, but I was quite determined to install the damn things and I usually don't give up easily.

Perhaps it had something to do with the length of the studs coming off the VT mounts? Or the pan hitting the cross member?
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