924Board.org

[lordam]

There are several comments across the board that say removing the engine by lowering it out below the engine bay is a good idea.

I also like the idea of returning a new completely assembled engine with turbo, wastegate and clutch all hooked up, rather than rebuilding/returning these bits once the engine has been installed on its engine mounts. There is not a lot of room in there.

So I have made a cradle to receive the engine and move it out, and a pulley system to lower the engine onto the cradle. Ready to go ....

BUT .... the 931 CIS fuel distributer sits on its own bracket above the chassis rail. Lowering the engine will do exciting things to the fuel lines as they go in opposite directions. Dont want that!

Could members who have experience tell me what can be done with the fuel distributer/fuel lines when they dropped the engine on their car, and if there is a trick with the CIS when returning the assembled engine.

Thanks in advance
John
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1981 931 ROW RHD Australian delivery, Bilsteins, LSD, adj coilovers, #350/550lb/in front, 27mm TB, adj rear sway bar, Targa setup

[924RACR]

I just pulled my motor last weekend, out the top - simply removed all the lines outright.
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Vaughan Scott
Webmeister
'79 924 #77 SCCA H Prod racecar
'82 931 Plat. Silver
#25 Hidari Firefly P2 sports prototype

[ideola]

Agreed, disconnect all of the lines from the fuel distributor and get the entire AFM assembly out of the way. Then you can pretty much leave the hardlines attached to the engine while pulling.

The other tip I would suggest is to remove the oil cooler by undoing the lines at the filter adapter, unbolting the cooler from the sheet metal attachments of the fender/valance, and fishing it out of the front. It's not hard to do, and it will greatly ease removal (and re-installation) of the engine.

You should remove the four bolts that hold the steering rack to the cross member, completely remove the nut and bolt on the bottom knuckle of the steering shaft, and allow the steering rack to drop down. Remove the two big bolts at the front of the a-arms (in the cross member), and then remove the four nylock nuts and get the cross member completely out of the way. This way you don't mess up the alignment, while still getting the cross member out of the way. Of course, the front of the car should be supported with jack stands to prevent the wheels from collapsing in.

Also, the radiator and fan shroud have to be removed.

I've never done the "out the bottom" approach, but I can't imagine getting the chassis high enough with jacks to use this approach...at least not safely. IMO, it's far easier to pull it from the top.
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erstwhile owner of just about every 924 variant ever made

[Rasta Monsta]

P.S. You can install the long block with manifolds, timing belt, and turbo installed, but the wastegate has to go on once the motor is in. FWIW, I did my 931 out the top, and recently dropped my 2.5 out the bottom, and wouldn't really say there is much difference.
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Toofah King Bad

• WeiBe (1987 924S 2.5t) - 931 S3

[Paul]

I usually pull them out the top.

However, to do it out the bottom, the jack stand's height is not a factor. You only need front stands, leave the rear on the tires.

Just lower the motor onto the floor with whatever you are using to lift the motor. Then using the same lift, raise the front of the car high enough to slide the motor out from underneath.
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White 87 924S "Ghost"
Silver 98 986 3.6l 320 HP "Frank N Stein"
White 01 986 "Christine"
Polar Silver 02 996TT. "Turbo"
Owned and repaired 924s since 1977
Porsche: It's not driving, it's therapy.