924Board.org

[jacobscott209]

I just got a pretty good deal on an entire drive train in an 82 924 $150 for anything but the body basically(buying from a a guy intends to scrap it in a couple days due to thousands in unpaid registration).

both cars are non turbo

got a couple of questions I wanted to ask before getting started though.

Please forgive me If I use words like doohickey I'm still getting used to the names of parts on this car

I'm planning on getting 2.0 engine(complete but don't need it) bell housing/clutch torque tube transmission and drive shafts if needed.

my questions are:
Should I use the shift rod(not sure if that's the right name for it) out of the 5 speed? are they different lengths or will mine fit in length and connection?

Is it just the torque tube or will I need to swap bell housing and clutch(buying a new clutch set, is it the same on a 77 as an 82 is my question). Flywheel?

Will my half shafts bolt up to the new transmission?

Are there any differences in size I'll need to make accommodations for? Mounts, exhaust, so on.

last question. Anyone need anything from it? It's gettin scrapped don't be shy.

Sorry if this is staring me in the face at the tech section All I could really find was 80-82 into a 79 and I didn't feel comfortable getting started until I had enough information.

Thanks for any help.
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77924

[gohim]

If I were you, and I could take as much as I want, I'd take everything I could unbolt that's in good condition, regardless of whether I knew if it would work on my car or not.

Porsche runs a constant product improvement cyckle on all of it's models up to the end of production. Just because your car didn't come with something doesn't mean that it won't fit or work or replace the older part on your 77.

Since you need the transmission, I'd start with the engine, and drop everything from the engine to the rear torsion bar carrier out the bottom. You're going to put the stuff back the same way, so you might as well get the experience/practice.

The engine has a slightly difference fuel and ignition system, but you can sell or trade the stuff you don't need later. You can use the complete engine with the sensors from your car, the clutch is the same for all 924 NA models. The cv axles are the same as well. I'd drop the whole torsion bar carrier myself (it has larger diameter torsion bars than you have). You car probably doesn;t have a front swaybar, the the donor will have a 21mm or 22mm. If you don't have a front sway bar, the lower control arms will be different too. Take everything you unbolt to take the stuff you want/need.

If the car has 5-bolt wheels, take the complete complete front suspension so you can convert to four wheel disc brakes. Good thing you're taking the rear torsion beam because you also got the rear disc brakes that way.

If you have the time, dump the gas and get the intank fuel pump, the hoses coming out of the tank, the large fuel accumulator (good upgrade if your car has the two small accumulators), and the external fuel pump.

I could actually use a good external fuel pump (I think mine is dying) for my 81 924 if you get the chance to take it off before the car goes. Let me know how much you want for shipping and I can PayPal it to you.

If it has a good leather covered steering wheel, and a center console and armrest, those are good parts to salvage as are the sunroof panel, the instrument cluster, center console instruments, and the sunroof latch parts that are located on the car.

If the car has four bolt front calipers, and you aren't going to take the complete suspension, at least take the time to get the front calipers. I hear it's getting harder to find seal kits for the front calipers all the time.

If you still have more time, try to get the lights and the lens. And the rear hatch. The rear hatch glass now costs more than the car's blue book.

[jacobscott209]

That's useful to know, I'll definitely get as much as possible. At this point I'm just looking at getting it running at this point though. Just the basics.

For one Ive yet to be able to drive this car down the road once since I got it 4 months ago. Obviously the most frustrating aspect.

Two I live in an apartment and I'm required to have valid registration to park it here. I cant get the thing smogged and tagged if it doesn't run and I'm pushin my landlords limits already by working on it here(not allowed).

Three I'm working on the ground where it sits, two ramps two floor jacks and one transmission jack is the extent of available equipment

In general I'd prefer to keep my engine in it anyway, It's in better shape with fewer miles. If you look down the oil fill in mine you see silver not the tinyest bit of crankcase smoke when it's running either. The other has quite a bit of carbon and scorching didn't check for smoke with it running but I can imagine.

I'm pretty positive it still has that pump though. Others have picked at it since I was there last. I'll let you know on friday when I go out there again.

Thanks for the advice though. I wasn't even thinking rear disk until now and I'm glad you mentioned it when I actually had access to parts too.
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77924

[jacobscott209]

Wanted to throw this in in case someone out there searched for advice on how to do this swap.

I Just got the transmission in. The five speed is longer than the four so it was VERY VERY dificult to fit I ended up using two jacks and a 4x6 wood board jacking each jack one pump at a time. Worked for me, but I really wouldn't recomend doing it without a transmission jack.

I left the origional shift shaft in because I didn't realize it was longer on a 4 speed. Instead of doubling my work and putting the correct one on(i had it too) I just changed out the part of the linkage the shaft connects to(not the whole thing by the way, I've highlighted in green what I'm talking about) The 4 speed is an inch or two shorter than the five speed.



Everything else was fine.
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77924

[924RACR]

The shift linkage is shorter?!? No way! I'da never guessed that... LOL

Might be worth hanging on to the other parts, if you have the opportunity - if you end up wanting to install a quick-shift linkage, it'll be sized to fit the 5-speed shift rod...
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Vaughan Scott
Webmeister
'79 924 #77 SCCA H Prod racecar
'82 931 Plat. Silver
#25 Hidari Firefly P2 sports prototype

[jacobscott209]

Thought I'd throw this out there.

The 4 speed was WAY!!! faster off the start line FULL POWER STRAIT TO THE WHEELS. the first time I drove it I accidentally did a burn out letting of the clutch

While the 5 speed made it much slower but the rpm ratio is better. If I knew what I know now I never would have "upgraded" it to the 5 speed. I feel robbed.... get it it's a play on words..........
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77924