924Board.org

[CorsePerVita]

How much should i/can i?


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- 1977 Porsche 924 2.0 N/A (Trackday Project)
- 1979 Porsche 924 2.0 N/A (The other daily)
- 1980 Porsche 931 (Daily)
- 1987 Lamborghini Jalpa
- 1999 Ducati 900SS

[Rasta Monsta]

Take this to the machine shop:


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Toofah King Bad

• WeiBe (1987 924S 2.5t) - 931 S3

[fiat22turbo]

I'd actually suggest they grind the surface down to remove the hard spots, but the tolerances are still important to note.

Shouldn't be too expensive to do and if you drop it off in the morning, most will have it down by the afternoon.
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Stefan
1979 924 Carrera GTS (clone-ish)
1988 944 Turbo S (Silver Rose)

[CorsePerVita]

that's for the 944, correct? or is it the same for the 944/1 and 924? I should have clarified.
_________________
- 1977 Porsche 924 2.0 N/A (Trackday Project)
- 1979 Porsche 924 2.0 N/A (The other daily)
- 1980 Porsche 931 (Daily)
- 1987 Lamborghini Jalpa
- 1999 Ducati 900SS

[Rasta Monsta]

Um, it's for the car I am well aware you are currently working on, because we've already helped you on it??


_________________
Toofah King Bad

• WeiBe (1987 924S 2.5t) - 931 S3

[CorsePerVita]

[CorsePerVita]

James you saved the day, machinist got it all turned, happy as can be!
_________________
- 1977 Porsche 924 2.0 N/A (Trackday Project)
- 1979 Porsche 924 2.0 N/A (The other daily)
- 1980 Porsche 931 (Daily)
- 1987 Lamborghini Jalpa
- 1999 Ducati 900SS

[CorsePerVita]

Flywheel is resurfaced and all shinied up. On top of that all my new bearings are ready to go!

I won the battle with the pilot bearing. Using John_AZ's idea from rennlist, I changed it up a bit. I found prying just not to be all that effective. I ended up doing this....







Then using a nut on the other end, i tightened it to the bearing race inside JUST enough to keep it firm.


Bam, easy slidehammer.


All I ended up using... 32mm axle socket (nice and heavy) 1 washer, 1 long concrete bolt, and 2 nuts. Made short work of it. Beats the holy crap out of spending $90 on a slidehammer I'll use once.

I already got the new pilot bearing in as well as the rear main seal. So... with that done and over with, I'm gonna get some sleep tonight, wake up, enjoy my morning coffee, and finish up the clutch tomorrow. Then I'll start the epic battle of dropping the suspension and doing the torque tube. Figure out how the hell i'm gonna get the tranny back in and then I will be back in business.

For anyone who has not yet embarked on this.... here are some things to prepare for.

Here are a few of my own:

- The bolt on the bellhousing up near the brake lines is a real pain in the ass to get out. Suggestively from the members on here I got a U-Joint for my 3/4 drive. I then used multiple extensions. However, because it was at such an angle I quite literally braced my drive head up against the housing where the torque tube is and used my FOOT as leverage. A stronger person could probably do it, but i'm 135lbs of negative muscle mass, leverage is my friend.

- Prepare to reach in odd places, don't be afraid to put yourself in awkward positions, there's plenty of them!

- Prepare for new exhaust bolts if yours are old, few of mine snapped! YAY!

- Is the rear end high enough up to drop that tranny? THINK HIGHER! And be prepared with a good jack! I had to pop several cans of spinach and go popeye mode on mine, then rolled it over on a big blanket so I didn't harm anything. Even then, WOW that sucker was heavy.

- Flywheel bolts, THESE ARE A PAIN! I figured out a tricky technique though. Don't use an AIR gun, use an ELECTRIC one. They tend to use LESS torque but still are strong enough to get them out. I have airguns and an electric one. I used the electric one by attempting to loosen the bolt, then tighten, then loosen then tighten. After a few times of doing this it would free the bolt up enough to just come right out.

- PILOT BEARING... well... see above. It's a royal pain.

- REAR MAIN SEAL. If you don't have a puller... well... good luck. It's retarded to get that thing out. I finally ended up using the pivot hole (where you'd use a puller) and tapping a screwdriver in to bust the metal ring and then pry it out. Ugly job. But BE CAREFUL. You don't want to scratch anything, dent anything. IN other words... get a puller. Do it right be done...

- WATCH THOSE FUEL LINES. I had a close call with the torque tube lip in the back nearly take one out, thankfully I pushed it up which enough and missed them. This is why it recommends pulling the fuel filter and line and putting them OUT of the way. With good reason. If you don't mind being careful you can get away without it, I left mine attached, but BE CAREFUL.

- That fiberglass sucks. Seriously. That stuff really really sucks. Wear a sweater or something thick, and some gloves, and maybe even eye protection, i itched for DAYS.
_________________
- 1977 Porsche 924 2.0 N/A (Trackday Project)
- 1979 Porsche 924 2.0 N/A (The other daily)
- 1980 Porsche 931 (Daily)
- 1987 Lamborghini Jalpa
- 1999 Ducati 900SS

[Slam]

I heartily second the suggestion to wear eye protection. My first clutch job I got a speck of fiberglass in my eye. No fun at all!

Great work, Corse! And thanks for the write-up and pics.
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'84 944 - kid blew motor
'83 944 - resting comfortably. For 12 years
'87 944 - sideswiped by trucker
'80 924 - gone
'78 924 - gone
'77 924 - rusting comfortably