924Board.org

[mikeycrum14]

try krazy glue. seems to work well in these situations.
_________________
1981 924 - Alpine White, First car! LSD. - SOLD
1989 Foxbody - Oxford White Turd
1992 Miata - Freaking Red
1987 300zx Turbo - Also White
1991 Miata - White field find
1987 924S - Alpine White, Offroader Build, possible future TDI swap

[Ozzie]

[mikeycrum14]

krazy glue... works wonders.
_________________
1981 924 - Alpine White, First car! LSD. - SOLD
1989 Foxbody - Oxford White Turd
1992 Miata - Freaking Red
1987 300zx Turbo - Also White
1991 Miata - White field find
1987 924S - Alpine White, Offroader Build, possible future TDI swap

[mikeycrum14]

apologize for the double post*

have you tried maybe taking the gear off and sanding the pin to rough it up, then glue inside the gear, press it on, and then put huge glue drops on the ends and let one dry then flip over and repeat for the other side of the gear.
_________________
1981 924 - Alpine White, First car! LSD. - SOLD
1989 Foxbody - Oxford White Turd
1992 Miata - Freaking Red
1987 300zx Turbo - Also White
1991 Miata - White field find
1987 924S - Alpine White, Offroader Build, possible future TDI swap

[Ozzie]

yes, used a small grinding tool.
Thinking I might deform the end (flatten with hammer) slightly
_________________
Porsche 924 1984 (UK import) NA
Its AUTO and its BLACK
Montego Black on black/red
Engineer of Electro/Mechanical Systems Maintenance

[mikeycrum14]

there you go just don't break the gear, they are a pain to find replacements for.
_________________
1981 924 - Alpine White, First car! LSD. - SOLD
1989 Foxbody - Oxford White Turd
1992 Miata - Freaking Red
1987 300zx Turbo - Also White
1991 Miata - White field find
1987 924S - Alpine White, Offroader Build, possible future TDI swap

[ronjeds]

Ozzie - I recently had the same red odometer gear shift inward and not make contact with the gear driving the odometer/trip odometer counters. The red gear was not actually loose on the shaft. Over time the entire shaft had shifted inward causing the red gear to disengage with the counter gear. I simply used a small flat-tip screwdriver to shift the red gear and shaft outward until the red gear lined up exactly over the middle of the counter gear. Everything works fine now.



Many years ago I had the same problem with a previously owned 924S. That time the red gear actually was a bit loose on the shaft. I slid the gear off of the shaft, put a tiny dab of glue in the center hole of the gear and slid it back onto the shaft aligned exactly over the middle of the counter gear. I let the glue dry overnight and everything worked fine for several years until I sold that car.
_________________
Ron

1988 924S Special Edition

[Ozzie]

I put a small spacer behind the red gear to stop moving in last time.
I will know more when I get it apart next time. (got bigger problems with freeze plugs ATM)
_________________
Porsche 924 1984 (UK import) NA
Its AUTO and its BLACK
Montego Black on black/red
Engineer of Electro/Mechanical Systems Maintenance

[jvandyke]

Old thread I know but a "classic" issue.
I too had the whole odometer gear and shaft shift away from the worm gear, I too just pushed it back and it works fine (on the bench with an old cable and drill to power it).
I thought about a spacer but didn't do it. Should I? The speedo is still out on the bench (awaiting new LED bulbs for all the gauges).
The question: pull it apart to play with spacer option or not? Why did it shift out of position in the first place? Because somebody pushed the trip meter reset while in motion? I can avoid that, knowing better, if that was the cause? or does the whole thing "walk" out of position over time?
I think I'll leave it alone pending input.
_________________
87 924S project, '83 944 engine,
my son's first car.

[jacobroufa]

I've been avoiding re-opening my speedometer. I replaced my gear this past summer with a new one as per instructions, but I did *not* put a dab of glue on it. I was told that press fit should be good enough. Unfortunately this meant for me that the new gear slipped within about 30 miles.

Pain in the butt.

If you ask me, I could have just re-secured the old gear with some glue and been done with it.

I will be cracking it open in the upcoming months and using a dab of super glue. Hopefully it stays this time. The real annoying part though in my opinion is trying not to muck up the trim ring that holds on the clear front of the speedometer...

[jvandyke]

Yes, it was fun to uncrimp that thing. I could not get any tool under the "seam" for love or money. I finally took a cut off wheel via my dremel and sliced the back side to provide a place to start, that worked great was easy to do then though not very "tidy" it doesn't show when done so no big deal.
I was expecting to find the gear broken and had to head scratch a bit before I realized the whole shaft/gear and shifted, even then it wasn't until I used a drill to spin it up that I verified it actually worked again (spinning by hand is too slow to show up on the odo, it "looked like" it wasn't actually working).
So in my case the gear is holding okay to the shaft but the whole shaft is shifting. I probably should open it back up and put a spacer behind it to keep it from happening again.
If you skip to the 5:19 point in the vid below you can see that shaft is out of alignment too but he either didn't notice or think it's an issue, he pinned the gear back on the shaft but what if (as in our cases) the whole shaft moves? spacer. I think I'll go back in and add one, maybe just cut down the case of on ink pen or something easy
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aIGVe96yzN4
_________________
87 924S project, '83 944 engine,
my son's first car.

[randyzimmer]

I have two speedos and used one to practice on and did a number of dumb things to it. Both gears were cracked, I think the age made them brittle enough to explode from the press fit to the shaft.

The next part is how I managed to ruin one thing after another and what I did to get back to the start. At the end is the real repair. You can skip the middle part and save time or use it as a guide as to what not to do.

Stupidly, I used gel glue and the thickness of it caused problems. the gear teeth at the crack didn't mesh and it jammed in testing.
After fixing that, the shaft and gear hole still had glue on them so when pressing the gear on, it pushed the shaft away. Before I drilled out the gear hole, I did this a lot.
I used blue locktite to glue the gear to the now fitted shaft and used heat to help it cure to test.
Now stuck, I tested but the odo numbers didn't move.
The grey gear on the miles stack now had no stick from being abused so much.
I used blue locktite on it an hit it with the heat.
The miles numbers melted and drooped but worked.
Now it's time to really get involved. By drilling a hole in the white plastic, I could remove the shaft and change the miles stack (not really necessary).
I reinstalled the good stack minding the order and the small gears at the top end and red loctited the grey gear to the shaft.

This was the end of the repair to fix all I broke, now starts the crack repair the way I should have done it right off.

I took the cracked red gear and made sure the teeth looked to be the normal pitch at the crack. Installed it into the lathe and used a hobby hacksaw to cut a small groove in one of the bosses. I used a Harbor Freight snap ring to hold the gear from opening up at the crack. I sized the bore to fit the shaft without pressure with a number drill. Then, used red locktite to fit the gear in place. If you have a shaft that moved in the grey gear, you can pull it back enough to slip the grey gear out and apply a dab of red. Note that the gear has a "flipper" on it and so does the one on the Trip odo section.
Orient the trip's flipper down and the miles' flipper up when reinstalling. That makes the mile change when the 0 on the trip comes around.
Wash your hands whenever you're in there, it sucks to have a fingerprint come up on the 2 every so often...