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Assessing how to install the CGT rear flares ala Hugo Jacobs

 
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Kroggers  



Joined: 18 Jun 2008
Posts: 102
Location: Stockholm & London

PostPosted: Mon Jul 27, 2009 4:58 am    Post subject: Assessing how to install the CGT rear flares ala Hugo Jacobs Reply with quote

I have started the installation of the 924 CGT flares on the car, and was originally following the great "how to" document created by Hugo Jacobs as I have got the same flares. But, although Hugo did a great job and the document is really good, there are two points in his installation that bothers me and I am wondering if some slight alterations might not be good. Before jumping in, I thought i would review my thoughts here with people who have done this installation before and might have some views on the subject.

In Hugo's instructions he first creates a new arch by cutting the outer and inner fender and folding them out. Having thought about this some more, I realise by doing this you actually create another closed void (between the glass flare and the old exterior of the car) for rust to develop in. This I do not like very much.

Secondly, he attacks the process of hiding the mounting lip by bashing the side of the car. I am no expert here, but I think this will result in a lot of cleaning up work. And a hard time ensuring you get the correct body line at the end. The points that most concerns me is the line that runs down the entire length of the car and the fact that hitting the side of my car could possibly damage the door line?

Based on these two points, I was considering taking the following approach.

Cut the outer fender just under the mounting line of the new flare, and attaching the glass flare from behind the fender rather than trying to create an indent in the fender to hide the mounting lip. Once installed, I would create a new inner fender with sheet steel which reaches out to the new glass flare. Weld the inside to the original inner fender, and glue the outside to the new flare.

This way, I hope to have less work to do in hiding the mounting edge, and I will have restored the original 924 side cavity, which I can still access from the usual locations. Most importantly, I do not end up with an additional cavity that I can not reach or see into to assess for future rust issues.

I do hope this makes some sense, and look forward to your expert feedback and comments before I attack the side of my car
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Kroggers
CoolCavaRacing.com

1983 924 (aka Scruffy)
1978 911SC (aka Wanda)
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Vince Ponz  



Joined: 02 Nov 2002
Posts: 3581
Location: Florida

PostPosted: Mon Jul 27, 2009 11:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Somewhere on this list are pictures of the amount I cut off the sides of the rears. I would say about 3 in at the top of the arch. I welded the inner with the cut outer fender. I later filled in any gaps with fiberglass. This was after I welded up the two sides.

This job is not for the faint hearted. It is tough cutting up a perfectly good car body. If you have someone who know what they are doing the do it. My flares had a two inch inner portion of the flare that I bolted to the body and also two part epoxied them on too.

Don't try to bend the flares as they will crack. I layed 3-4 fiberglass sheets to the inside of the flares for strengh. Good luck.
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77.5 924 modified track car
79 931 Euro stock
88 924S SE
87 911 Targa stock
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pocketscience  



Joined: 23 Apr 2006
Posts: 1650
Location: Sydney, Australia... mate!

PostPosted: Mon Jul 27, 2009 12:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Whatever you do please document with copious pics and create a "How To". I'm not even close to that stage yet.


Cheers,
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81 924 N/A, GTS lights, Saratoga, interior, headers, Integral cam, EFI (sold)
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