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Timing belt oil pully turning and cam NOT turning is BAD?!

 
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931Owner  



Joined: 14 Feb 2009
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Location: Chicago NW Suburbs

PostPosted: Sun May 17, 2009 10:45 am    Post subject: Timing belt oil pully turning and cam NOT turning is BAD?! Reply with quote

Just doing some trouble shooting and notice that the alternator belt was loose. When I tightened the belt and turned it by hand... it turned the turned the alternator, water pump and AC as well as the oil pump pulley but not the cam.
It's a bad thing right?

Can the cam belt be tightened or replaced while the engine is in the car? It has the cam cover on as well... but it doesn't want to come out... looks like too much stuff in the way.

Thanks
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Paul  



Joined: 02 Nov 2002
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PostPosted: Sun May 17, 2009 11:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Don't crank the motor or you will bend valves if the cam really is not turning when the crank does!!!!!

Have someone check your timing belt immediately.

Are you sure the crankshaft was turning?
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931Owner  



Joined: 14 Feb 2009
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Location: Chicago NW Suburbs

PostPosted: Sun May 17, 2009 12:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The front oil pulley is definitely turning so is the pulley with the teeth turning but the cam belt is not, therefore the cam isn't.

I cannot remove the cam belt cover without dismantling a whole bunch of other things so I cannot double check to see if the crank is turning for sure.
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Paul  



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PostPosted: Sun May 17, 2009 1:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If the timing belt gear on the crankshaft is turning and the camshaft isn't you most likely have bent valves.

Do not attempt to turn the crank until you take a look at the belt.

It's not that hard to get the cover off, just remove the air clearer, the alternator belt and the AC belt.
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ideola  



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PostPosted: Sun May 17, 2009 9:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

+1 to what Paul said. In fact, +100.

As Paul said, you just have to remove the AC and Alt belts, as well as the airbox. There are three bolts that hold the cover on. Two are up top on either side of the head, and the third is down under the water pump near the end of the long portion of the cover. Be careful when removing the bolts not to loose the washers or little metal inserts that go into the grommets on the cover. Once you have the three bolts out, you have to sort of maneuver the cover, kind of twist it toward you as you pull it up.
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931Owner  



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PostPosted: Mon May 18, 2009 9:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ideola wrote:
As Paul said, you just have to remove the AC and Alt belts, as well as the airbox. There are three bolts that hold the cover on. Two are up top on either side of the head, and the third is down under the water pump near the end of the long portion of the cover. Be careful when removing the bolts not to loose the washers or little metal inserts that go into the grommets on the cover. Once you have the three bolts out, you have to sort of maneuver the cover, kind of twist it toward you as you pull it up.


Thanks guys... got the cam cover bolts off yesterday without loosing anything but couldn't maneuver the cover off... it would be easier removing the belts but was trying to be a minimalist.
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931Owner  



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PostPosted: Fri May 22, 2009 11:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

So much for being a minimalist, ended up taking the bonnet/hood off as well as a bunch of other things.

Well... the belt is trashed... broken teeth and everything! Looks like the belt was due for a replacement which I was going to do anyway.

So... is it time or a head rebuild? How can I test if the valves are actually bent without taking the head off?

I don't recall hearing the typical hitting of the valves against the piston... which I've heard in the alfa, would a borescope help?

Thanks
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ideola  



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PostPosted: Fri May 22, 2009 12:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Valves are bent, you can count on it.
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931Owner  



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PostPosted: Fri May 22, 2009 1:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ideola wrote:
Valves are bent, you can count on it.


Thanks ideola

Ok... well, is a valve job something that can be done with the engine in the car or should I pull the engine?
Obviously... replace tensioner, H2o pump, belts, any other things to be replaced or updated while getting the valves done?
I had the clutch planned as well as the gearbox linkages... anything else from a transmission/clutch point of view to do?

Thanks
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Paul  



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PostPosted: Fri May 22, 2009 1:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The valve job and clutch can be done with the motor in place.

If you want to rebuild the bottom end or install new rings or rebuild the turbo, I'd pull the motor.
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931Owner  



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PostPosted: Fri May 22, 2009 1:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Paul wrote:
rebuild the turbo, I'd pull the motor.


Oh, I forgot to mention... when I opened the airbox there was an creamy/oily substance in there... probably turbo rebuild due. Luckily I got it cheap enough to take into account all this work... unfortunately I am doing it sooner rather than later.
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924guy  



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PostPosted: Fri May 22, 2009 7:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

oil residue in the air box is not uncommon, chances are the drain tube from the oil separator to the block is collapsed, its a hard to get at and usually overlooked part.
given that your looking at a valve job, and a clutch job, id recommend just pulling the engine, its allot easier that way. in the time you spend being a contortionist to get at the assorted manifold bolts alone trying to do the job with the engine in the car, you can pull the whole engine...
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