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Removing the sump?

 
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Rich H  



Joined: 10 Jun 2007
Posts: 2665
Location: Preston, Lancs, UK

PostPosted: Sat Jan 17, 2009 7:09 pm    Post subject: Removing the sump? Reply with quote

Hey all,

How difficult is it to remove the sump with the engine in situ?

Does the crossmember have to come off?

I'm going to pull the pistons, hone the block and change the rings and BE bearings at some point.

Ta
Rich
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Scorpio  



Joined: 05 Jul 2007
Posts: 1957
Location: Brisbane, Australia

PostPosted: Sat Jan 17, 2009 7:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ive done it with engine out of the car...just remember to keep bolts in order makes installing easier as theyre all different sizes
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924RACR  



Joined: 29 Jul 2001
Posts: 9061
Location: Royal Oak, MI, USA

PostPosted: Sun Jan 18, 2009 2:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pull the motor.

You can remove the oil pan/sump with the engine in place, just have to remove the crossmember as you suggest; done it a number of times. However you're talking about a full rebuild, and at that point, if you're gonna hone the cylinders - might as well have a shop do it right.

At that point, it is much easier to remove the whole engine and do it on a stand.
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Paul  



Joined: 02 Nov 2002
Posts: 9491
Location: Southeast Wisconsin

PostPosted: Sun Jan 18, 2009 3:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

+1 especially if your clutch is nearing the end of its useful life or you would like to also replace the main bearings.
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Rich H  



Joined: 10 Jun 2007
Posts: 2665
Location: Preston, Lancs, UK

PostPosted: Sun Jan 18, 2009 3:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Clutch is under 5000 miles old, and main bearings would be great - but they are NLA until someone makes some new ones.

Problem is I have no where to put an engine on a stand, no room under cover. Also I have no wya of transporting the block to a shop, it won't go in the elise and the landy is 100 miles away (It only does 25mph!)

The plan was:

Drop the sump, pull the head, pull the pistons, pull the flywheel
hone bores DIY
New BE bearings (Assuming they look ok) new rings, new crank seals
Rebuild

Mains would be great, but until they actually turn up I'm just going to hope they are OK...
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Paul  



Joined: 02 Nov 2002
Posts: 9491
Location: Southeast Wisconsin

PostPosted: Sun Jan 18, 2009 3:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

No need to pull the flywheel unless your rear main seal is leaking. You can replace the rings and rod bearings without pulling the bell housing. You will have to remove 3 of the lower bell housing bolts however since they bolt into the oil pan.
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PORSCHEV  



Joined: 02 Nov 2002
Posts: 1901
Location: Cedar Lake Nova Scotia, Canada

PostPosted: Sun Jan 18, 2009 4:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

How do you plan to pull the flywheel with the engine still in place?? Thats a hell of a lot more work then just pulling the block out.
I thought Dan had the main bearing supply fixed...or he had 4 sets for sale??
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Rich H  



Joined: 10 Jun 2007
Posts: 2665
Location: Preston, Lancs, UK

PostPosted: Sun Jan 18, 2009 4:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm not sure about the mail seal, I'll have to inspect it more carefully, they are £40 so I'd rather not change it.
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924-76  



Joined: 05 Jun 2006
Posts: 1489
Location: Ontario, Canada

PostPosted: Sun Jan 18, 2009 8:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I’ve changed the oil pan gasket with the engine in place once, really painful.
Take the time to pull the engine out. It’s so easy when it stand it front of you.
Good luck
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ideola  



Joined: 01 Oct 2004
Posts: 15550
Location: Spring Lake MI

PostPosted: Sun Jan 18, 2009 10:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

PORSCHEV wrote:
How do you plan to pull the flywheel with the engine still in place?? Thats a hell of a lot more work then just pulling the block out.
I thought Dan had the main bearing supply fixed...or he had 4 sets for sale??

No, don't have this solved yet. Rasta may have found a manufacturer, but I don't think we've found a distributor yet. I have three sets for sale, but they are for the early cranks with 60mm journals. All STD size BTW.
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Jaf  



Joined: 08 Jun 2006
Posts: 194
Location: Oria. Spain

PostPosted: Wed Jan 21, 2009 9:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I took the sump off with the engine in to do the big ends. I didn't think it was that hard, especially as I didn't need to take the crossmember off (didn't occur to me that I'd need to). A lot easier than taking the engine out without a crane and another body around to help.
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