924Board.org

[Warped]

I've been advised to take this apart and with using a air compressor, blow the plunger within, out to let air flow through correctly.

However, what is the best hints, and practice to do this? The Haynes manuel doesn't get into this area (In fact, it mentions that you should not take the air flow sensor and fuel distributor apart further without first talking/coordinating with a shop or having them do it??)

What is happening is that my air flow sensor didn't seem to be working correctly. However upon taking it apart, the spring and the lever within seem to move within their full movement, whereas before they didn't, connected to the car. (Outside the car they are moving within full arc of what looks like could be the proper movement of the air sensor...)

I really hope this makes sense to someone...

[Geddy T]

Like I said before, the Haynes is correct. DO NOT take apart that fuel distributor. However, removal of the plunger is well within your grasp.
Procedure:
1.) Remove it, of course, including all banjo bolts to make it easier to work with.
2.) There are five holes on the top of the unit. The four in the corners are out lines to the injectors. The one in the middle is fuel coming back in to pressurized the top of the plunger and hold it down. This is the one you will need to blow air into. Spray carb cleaner down this hole and around the plunger from below and let it sit for a while.
3.) Take a rubber-tipped compressed air sprayer and blow a few quick bursts of air into the central hole on the top. Make sure you have a very clean rag underneath in your hand to catch the plunger with.
4.) Keep spraying carb cleaner, letting it sit for a bit, and blowing air until it breaks loose.

Just don't let that plunger drop or get dirty. Once you break it loose, put it back in. If when you push up on the plunger, you hear something like air squirting and feel a little pnuematic pressure towards the top, then it's all good. If you let go of the plunger while it's in the distributor, it should slowly slide out. Don't test this too many times so you don't risk dropping it.

[levans924]

hey warped i took my fuel distributor apart and followed the haynes manuel to the point that it says to stop(you know, where they use those star bolts)but of corse i took that apart aswell.I don't think that there was any need to do so as there is not much that you can do inside the unit.
Now after putting the fuel distributor back together i have a very small fuel leak around the unit where the star bolts are used to seal the 2 halves together. I spoke to another guy who completly dismantled the unit aswell, and he has the same leak around the unit.
so it might be wise NOT to take it apart further than the star bolts.

[924RACR]

Yeah, that's the deal - tolerances are too fine to successfully reassemble without leaks.

If the plunger is stuck, and will not move after applying fuel pressure, you can use compressed air into the center top fitting of the fuel distributor to blow it out. Just be careful to catch it with a rag, otherwise it'll shoot across the shop and be damaged.

_________________
Vaughan Scott
Webmeister
'79 924 #77 SCCA H Prod racecar
'82 931 Plat. Silver
#25 Hidari Firefly P2 sports prototype

[Smoothie]

I'm jealous. I had to buy my 924T and have been driving it for close to 10 years. Warped gets one for free and in a couple months has already been places and done things with it that I might never do - and all before it's even running...

[gohim]

DO NOT TAKE THE FUEL DISTRIBUTOR APART.

THE INTERNAL SEALS ARE NOT AVAILABLE.

THE THING WILL LEAK EVERYDAY FORWARD AFTER YOU TAKE IT APART UNTIL YOU THROW IT AWAY, OR USE IT AS AN EXCHANGE CORE.

[Warped]

Thanks guys,

Don't worry Smoothie, I'm not feeling all that lucky

Guess, I'm just getting a little anxious...don't worry, I will not take the fuel distributor apart nor will I take apart the sensor any further then I have...All I've done so far is seperated the two parts from one another and taken them off of the car.

I'll study all of your replys on this string of subjects...and let you all know how it goes.

What about the gasket that the sensor sits on? Do I really need to replace this? Or can I continue to use the old one?

Thank

[ This Message was edited by: Warped on 2002-05-16 04:16 ]

[Vince Ponz]

Smoothie, try putting the keys in the ignition and turning the key. Sometimes it works.
I have taken my 931 to Atlanta and back without any problems. Total mileage about 2K.
I guess some of us have all the luck. I have my fingers crossed for my car and yours.

Drive safely.

[John Brown]

Not even sure I'd pull the plunger out. Maybe first try submerging the whole thing in some solvent. Just 'repaired' an in-tank fuel pump this way using a can of "Gunk". And I notice that as we continue idleing the project car the mixture is getting richer indicating the system is cleaning itself out some. All without opening anything up.

[dengeman]

If you really don't have to, don't take your fuel distributor apart. But be careful soaking it in carb cleaner. The cleaner may eat or weaken the orings internally. I completely disassembled mine all the way to devarnish and remove the rust. I was able to find some fuel resistant o-rings to replace the cracked ones inside. This did fix all problems I was having with it, principally crud and one outlet flowing almost twice as much as the others. While I had it apart I lapped each half of the distributor with 2000 grit paper on a granite block till it had a near mirror finish. Upon reassembly it worked much better- all ports flowed equally and cleanly. I do have a very slight weeping around the seam. It's hard to tell if it is from my work or from when someone else had disassembled it previously, with a screwdriver, between the mating surfaces... All in all, don't take it apart unless you are willing to replace it. If your plunger isn't working properly after cleaning (don't touch the precision surface with anything except a clean Q-tip with carb cleaner on it) just replace the distributor. You can't do anything about repairing the plunger or the bore surface

[Joes924]

Cant you raise the pressure by adding a shim in back of the thick one. Tried that with my old one when I had a nostart because of rust in the tank.