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-nick · Joined: 16 Nov 2002 Posts: 2699 Location: Cambridge, MA

I've got a new pair of stock rubber bushings for the rear of the front a-arms. Has anyone managed to do R&R them themselves? Will a bearing puller do the job to pull the old ones off? then a hammer + block of wood to install the new ones? Is there a pin or something to make sure the bushings go on straight? (since they need to be spun in the correct direction)

Any advice is appreciated!

nick

Chrenan · Joined: 15 Jan 2003 Posts: 3903 Location: Canada

Nick, I try to as much as I can myself, but last summer this was something I took to a shop to have done. I made no progress on any of the A-arm bushings by myself. Went to a local independent porsche shop and they pressed the old ones out and put the new ones in, cost a few bucks but probably saved me a whole afternoon of aggravation.
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1987 951 - M193 Version for Japan

augidog · Joined: 03 Mar 2003 Posts: 1360 Location: New Jersey

I had a garage guy do mine when he had the shocks .
I got tired of the hammer and block of wood making me look silly in front of my wife.
All he did was use a big mounted bench press ,the type you see on every old workbench. He just cranked it together.
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1978 924 95 mile daily driver.
Audi TB/POR174M/High Flow Cat/2.25" exhaust
I knew that positive thinking thing wouldn't work.

Slam · Posted: Tue Jun 13, 2006 12:14 pm Post subject:

I agree with these guys. Major PITA. I managed to do the rear ones, with the aid of a lot of heat, but by the time I got them off I'd had enough and took the A-arms to a pro.
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'84 944 - kid blew motor
'83 944 - resting comfortably. For 12 years
'87 944 - sideswiped by trucker
'80 924 - gone
'78 924 - gone
'77 924 - rusting comfortably

Raceboy · Joined: 01 Mar 2004 Posts: 2327 Location: Estonia, Europe

Did them myself.
First one was kinda pita, but second arm was already done with ther experience. I used vice and bolt to push the front A-arm bushing out and new one in. The rears depend on the year. Older style bushings are easy to replace but newer need some serious work with hammer and a lot of patience.
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'83 924 2.6 16v Turbo, 470hp
'67 911 2.4S hotrod
'90 944 S2 Cabriolet
'78 924 Carrera GT replica
'84 928 S, sold
'91 944 S2, sold
'82 924S/931 "Gulf", sold

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Mike924 · Joined: 12 Aug 2004 Posts: 2601 Location: IoW UK

In the past when I've fitted bushes (on other cars) I've used red rubber grease to ease then in; makes a world of difference.

Does anyone know if these bushes are available in polyurethane?

Also how do you go about resetting the castor alignment, having removed the A-arm?

Sorry, don't mean to hijack, but it's kinda related.
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1985 Porsche 924 'Lux', Kalahari Beige (my ex)
1993 Porsche 968 Coupe, Midnight Blue, 6 spd

'There is no substitute for a little grease under your fingernails.' - Chrenan, 924board.org

-nick · Joined: 16 Nov 2002 Posts: 2699 Location: Cambridge, MA

ok, off to the shop with these babies then!

Mike- the trouble is that the stock bushings have a metal sleeve in the center that is a light press over the metal pivot of the a-arm. Grease or no grease, still a lot of banging.

I'm sure there is a poly alternative, but I'm a fan of stock rubber bushings. I've tried poly/delrin/whatever at other suspension points and only got a sloppy fit and noise.

Alignment = computerized alignment machine at a shop for me. I get a nice printout of the results and everything

Vince Ponz · Joined: 02 Nov 2002 Posts: 3581 Location: Florida

Glad you asked. While trying to remove the metal tube I struck it with a hammer only to have it rebound and chip my eye tooth. Slightly.

I did get to finish the project.
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"Never let them see you sweat"
77.5 924 modified track car
79 931 Euro stock
88 924S SE
87 911 Targa stock

Peter · Joined: 04 Nov 2002 Posts: 379 Location: New York, NY

The stock rubber bushings come off easily by burning them off. I used an inexpensive propane torch, similar to what plumbers use to sweat pipes, to burn the rubber off.

I haven’t yet replaced the bushings, but I am using polyurethane bushings, not rubber. I need to determine how I can cut grease channels, with the tools at my disposal, on the inner diameter of the poly bushings to allow periodic lubrication through the zerk fittings. This is to prevent binding. ALL poly bushings bind if they are not lubed, even if you don’t feel or hear them. But for a non-track car, rubber is best way to go!

I would suggest to forego the wood block route, and either have your mechanic press them in at the shop, or use a large vise as a home press. Do one ribber side first, then do the metal sleeve, then do the other rubber side.

Llamaguy · Joined: 02 Jul 2003 Posts: 711 Location: Indiana

are you talking about the one on the left or the right? (picture right is the front of car)

The left one just slipped on and I can't remember taking it off, but it didn't seem hard. The right one was a pain because I don't have a press, but went in with a large vice.
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1987 924S Guards Red
1997 Suzuki Tl1000 Supersport