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Split CV Boot
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tj924  



Joined: 15 Jul 2004
Posts: 957
Location: Toowoomba, Queensland, Australia

PostPosted: Mon Apr 03, 2006 3:58 pm    Post subject: Split CV Boot Reply with quote

Was under the car yesterday checking the new fuel pump & found one of my CV boots (the inboard one next to the transmission) is badly split. Still looks to be plenty of grease in there, but should I only drive the car a minimal amount until I can replace the boot?

On Performance9 there are 2 mentions of a CV Boot. There is "CV Boot 924/944" (P/N 411501149A) which is $10, but there is also a "CV Boot Kit 924 1976-85 944 (P/N 94433190300) for $30. What would be included in the kit, apart from the boot?

Also found this tip in a previous thread:

5150 wrote:
I've got a cheaters way of replacing boots without pulling things apart...

I bought a "universal" CV boot for one of my cars one time, comes as a kit comprising of a "split" boot, tube of glue, grease and ties, you just cut the old boot off, slip the split boot around and then glue the seam on it.. once the glue's set you position the boot and fit the clips (cable ties to be precise).... over here the kit was about £8 while a normal boot was £3, i realised the glue is nothing more than superglue so when i next had a split boot i bought a normal one and split it down the seam with a sharp blade, fitted it and glued it. Probably not the ideal thing to do, but i've never had one fail on me.

I replaced one of the 924's steering rack boots in exactly this way 2yrs ago and it's still fitted correctly now with no prob's. Bit fiddly to hold the thing together as you glue it, but it's easier and quicker than pulling half the car apart.


Sounds far better than having to pull the whole joint apart. Anyone think this approach would be dangerous? With this approach I would expect to cut off the old boot, clean up any grease, squeeze new grease into some part (what?) until it starts flowing out, then install the new boot & glue it together with something suitable for rubber (suggestions)?

I understand that cleaning & spraying all of the boots (not just the CV boots) with silicon lube annually is a good idea as well.
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TJ
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Ozzie  



Joined: 12 Mar 2005
Posts: 4448
Location: Townsville, Qld. Australia

PostPosted: Mon Apr 03, 2006 5:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

As each shaft has 2 boots I suppose the kit would do a shaft and have cable ties as well. It might even have grease.
The super glue sounds easy enough but IMO I wouldn't trust it.
Buy 2 kits and do both sides.
The rubber on all must be the same age and about to fail.
Would you replace one brake pad?
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tj924  



Joined: 15 Jul 2004
Posts: 957
Location: Toowoomba, Queensland, Australia

PostPosted: Mon Apr 03, 2006 6:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think the boot got torn open when I bottomed out going over a deeper than expected rut on a dirt road. The other boots appear to be in good nick (no cracks or splits) but I'll jack the entire rear of the car up next weekend & have a good look. I'll also check if the grease in the split boot feels gritty, in which case I guess it'd be a good idea to pull the CV joint off & inspect anyway.

Can I do the inner CV joint (ie the one attached to the transmission) by just taking off the inner end without also having to remove the wheel hub etc?

BTW, I think the kit is a single boot with grease & clamps for 1 CV joint only.
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Ozzie  



Joined: 12 Mar 2005
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Location: Townsville, Qld. Australia

PostPosted: Mon Apr 03, 2006 8:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
Can I do the inner CV joint (ie the one attached to the transmission) by just taking off the inner end without also having to remove the wheel hub etc?

Cant see why not.
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Smoothie  



Joined: 01 Jan 2003
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 04, 2006 3:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If completely cleaning out and replacing the grease (necessary because I can't imagine there not being any grit in there), it's easier and more comfortable to work on if you just remove the whole half-shaft with both cv joints attached. It'll come off without having to remove a wheel hub or anything else.
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Paul  



Joined: 02 Nov 2002
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 04, 2006 9:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

TJ I suggest you pull the axle as Smoothie says and completly tear down both CV joints, clean them, and put them back together with new boots, grease and clamps.

If you find the one with the good boot is dry or the grease is all "caked up", I'd do the other axle too.

This is considered normal preventative maintenance on these cars.
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tj924  



Joined: 15 Jul 2004
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Location: Toowoomba, Queensland, Australia

PostPosted: Tue Apr 04, 2006 12:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Paul wrote:
...If you find the one with the good boot is dry or the grease is all "caked up", I'd do the other axle too.


Good point. I guess having done one side, the other should be easier.

Would it be a big job to do both CV joints on the one side (ie > a few hours)? I'll try to talk my Dad (mechanic by trade but long since retired from the game) into helping. The only "special tool" I should need is an 8mm 12 point bit, is that correct. Sounds like the bolts shouldn't be on super tight either so shouldn't be a huge job to undo them with the right tool & plently of cleaning & WD40-ing.

BTW, Performance 9 says the "Boot Kit" comes with "grease, small clamp, washer & circlip". The boots alone are $10 each & the boot kit is $30. I thought maybe the kit might come with replacement bolts as well, but it doesn't look like it.
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Ozzie  



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PostPosted: Tue Apr 04, 2006 2:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd buy 4 boots, some grease and cable ties - should be about $50au.

Boots - $10 ea.
Tub off grease from CBC bearings $10
Cable ties $2
The kit sounds like a rip off.
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tj924  



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PostPosted: Tue Apr 04, 2006 3:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So using cable ties (ZIP ties) would work just fine? What about the circlip & washer? Just reuse the old ones? I assume the "small clamp" would just be used to secure the small end of the boot to the half-shaft (I think thats what its called)?
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Mike924  



Joined: 12 Aug 2004
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 04, 2006 4:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

tj924 wrote:
Would it be a big job to do both CV joints on the one side (ie > a few hours)? I'll try to talk my Dad (mechanic by trade but long since retired from the game) into helping. The only "special tool" I should need is an 8mm 12 point bit, is that correct. Sounds like the bolts shouldn't be on super tight either so shouldn't be a huge job to undo them with the right tool & plently of cleaning & WD40-ing.


It's not a big job, but it'll probably take all day if you're removing both half-shafts and stripping down all four CV joints. You don't want to rush this part.

I would definitely reccommend using the correct 12-point tool for the hub/CV bolts, as opposed to any of the 'dodges' one hears about. The bolts are not particularly tight (30 ft-lb IIRC) and generally not too stubborn, but you do need to clean the area thouroughly to avoid getting dirt/grit into the CV joints as you remove them.
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5150  



Joined: 04 Dec 2002
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 04, 2006 5:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, as I said it's probably not ideal to split the boot and glue it the way I've done in the past, but I've never had one re-split. The steering rack boot is still on my 924 and still doing it's job. I've replaced about 4-5 CV boots in this way on cars that I kept for a couple of years with no problems. If you're thinking long-term then do it right, if you need a quick fix then just split and glue a boot - the rubber surface on the join needs to be perfectly clean and don't slip it over the ends into place until the glue has fully set or it'll open up.
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tj924  



Joined: 15 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 06, 2006 4:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

tj924 wrote:
So using cable ties (ZIP ties) would work just fine? What about the circlip & washer? Just reuse the old ones? I assume the "small clamp" would just be used to secure the small end of the boot to the half-shaft (I think thats what its called)?


Bump. Anyone
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Mike924  



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PostPosted: Thu Apr 06, 2006 5:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

TJ, I think the answer to all your questions is yes. I don't think any of the things you mentioned are terribly critical, so just go ahead.

Personally, I'm not a fan of cable ties on rubber boots (although I admit thery're bloody convenient when fitting). They tend to bite into the rubber to a visious degree and have to be cut off to be removed, which can damage the boot if you just want to remove it temporaraily. I prefer Jubilee-type clips.
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Lizard  



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PostPosted: Fri Apr 07, 2006 1:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would go to a parts store and find hose clamps that are big enough to go over the boot over zap straps or zip ties.

as per the horseshoe clip (looks like a c clip) and washer, yes reuse old should be no issues there.
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timstar92404  



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PostPosted: Fri Apr 07, 2006 3:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

one of mine is also badly split, I have been driving like this for a long time.....
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