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Battery still not charging
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tj924  



Joined: 15 Jul 2004
Posts: 957
Location: Toowoomba, Queensland, Australia

PostPosted: Sat Oct 30, 2004 9:57 pm    Post subject: Battery still not charging Reply with quote

My battery still isn't charging . Was 12.2 before firing up & dropped to 11.6ish when started. Reving the engine made no difference & turning on various accessories (light fan etc) dropped it further to around 11.3.

I have just had the alternator out & replaced the voltage regulator. I noticed that when I turn the key to "Start" before cranking it, the alternator light does NOT come on at all. Am I to understand that I am probably looking at a problem with the D+ wire or possible a blown light bulb. Any tips on troubleshooting?

If the D+ wire needs to be replaced (looks OK at a glance, but it runs most of the way that I can see it inside a black tube along with some other wires), what it the best way to re-run it through the firewall?
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924RACR  



Joined: 29 Jul 2001
Posts: 8968
Location: Royal Oak, MI, USA

PostPosted: Sat Oct 30, 2004 10:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd definitely be suspicious of the wiring from the alternator and the gauge reading... also the ground for the gauge. Before you tear up the wiring, use a voltmeter and doublecheck the measurement at the gauge - both to a hard ground and to the gauge ground. There is usually an inadequate ground for the dash in these cars, which is why I recommend adding one.

It's also possible that you have a poor or no connection in the connector that plugs the alternator into the rest of the car. On US cars it's a 3-pin white nylon plug on the firewall at th back of the cam cover; don't know 100% that it's the same on RHD, but I would assume so. These contacts can get worn, weak, or corroded, preventing charge from getting to the car.

HTH...
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tj924  



Joined: 15 Jul 2004
Posts: 957
Location: Toowoomba, Queensland, Australia

PostPosted: Sun Oct 31, 2004 12:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

So the D+ wire effectively goes from the light through the 3-pin white nylon plug on the firewall at th back of the cam cover & down to the alternator? Anything else plugged into that connector?

How do I check the measurement at the guage? Is it easy to check the bulb?
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Silver '82 924 NA 5-Speed Manual


Last edited by tj924 on Sun Oct 31, 2004 8:32 am; edited 1 time in total
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Smoothie  



Joined: 01 Jan 2003
Posts: 8032
Location: DE (the one near MD, PA, NJ)

PostPosted: Sun Oct 31, 2004 12:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Possibly the quickest way to check if the problem's with the exciter wire/bulb. Run a jumper wire from D+ to ground and turn the ignition on, but not to start. If you get the dash light, you know the wire and bulb are ok.
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tj924  



Joined: 15 Jul 2004
Posts: 957
Location: Toowoomba, Queensland, Australia

PostPosted: Sun Oct 31, 2004 2:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Traced the conduit into which both the B+ & D+ wires disappear & found the 3-pin white nylon plug that 924RACR is talking about. On my car it is (looking from the front of the car) on the top right-hand side of the engine bay near the battery. That is actually the opposite side of the engine bay to the cam cover.

Pulled it apart & it looks OK at a cursory glance. Any way to clean the contacts in there?

Smoothie, there is a ground wire that runs from a bolt that holds the cover on the alternator to the top bracket that holds the alternator on the engine block. Should I just temporarily connect this wire to D+ for testing or should I connect a new (temporary) wire?

How do I get to the bulb for the alternator warning light?
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Smoothie  



Joined: 01 Jan 2003
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Location: DE (the one near MD, PA, NJ)

PostPosted: Sun Oct 31, 2004 4:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

It doesn't matter how you run D+ to ground. Could do what you mentioned, could disconnect the exciter wire from D+ and run the wire to ground, whatever's easiest. I was thinking a seperate wire would be easiest.

Whether that makes the light come on or not, next you could run a wire from batt 12V(+) (or from 12V(+) anywhere), run that to D+, start the car and check to see if that starts the alternator charging.

To get to the alt light bulb, you have to remove the gauge. The gauges push out from behind the large plastic bezel that they're mounted in.
Look here - http://www.924board.org/viewtopic.php?t=13104
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tj924  



Joined: 15 Jul 2004
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Location: Toowoomba, Queensland, Australia

PostPosted: Sun Oct 31, 2004 10:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Testing so far gives the following results:

Car off

Battery - 11.86v
Alternator B+ - 11.85v
Alternator D+ - 0.00v

Ignition turned to the start position just before cranking (oil, park brake & brake lights on, alternator light off)

Battery - 11.52v
Alternator B+ - 11.48v
Alternator D+ - 10.98v

Note that I checked by putting the volt meter's -ve lead on the ground strap bolt on the alternator itself & on the ground strap bolt on the engine & get the same reading. That says to me that the ground strap itself is OK & I have a good ground connection there.

Disconnected the D+ wire & the ground strap from the alternator & joined these 2 wires together (both have ring connectors & I just put a bolt through them). Turned the ignition on & the alternator light now comes on!

So, I now know that the dash light & D+ wire are OK & I get close to battery voltage at the B+ wire, so battery to starter to alternator is OK. Is that correct?

I've replaced the voltage regulator, though not with a genuine one ($90+ vs $20) & I did notice it's ground connector was on the opposite side to the genuine one. Would that make a difference?

What the heck do I check next???
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Paul  



Joined: 02 Nov 2002
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Location: Southeast Wisconsin

PostPosted: Mon Nov 01, 2004 12:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Disconnect the D+ wire and tell us what the resistance is from the D+ post on the alternator to a ground point on the alternator.
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tj924  



Joined: 15 Jul 2004
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Location: Toowoomba, Queensland, Australia

PostPosted: Mon Nov 01, 2004 2:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Paul wrote:
Disconnect the D+ wire and tell us what the resistance is from the D+ post on the alternator to a ground point on the alternator.


About 30 ohms to the ground wire bolt on the alternator, 32 ohms to the ground wire bolt on the engine.

If I connect a 2nd ground wire (just a 3mm 10 amp wire I had) from the D+ post to the alternator ground point on the engine, the alternator light comes on & stays on even with the engine running & revving.
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Joes924Racer  



Joined: 03 Nov 2002
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 01, 2004 2:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The alts grounded and has an exciter wire ??
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tj924  



Joined: 15 Jul 2004
Posts: 957
Location: Toowoomba, Queensland, Australia

PostPosted: Mon Nov 01, 2004 2:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If I understand your question correctly Joe, then yes, the alternator is grounded & has an exciter (D+) wire. With the D+ wire connected I put a 2nd ground strap from D+ to the alternator ground point on the engine. The alternator light now comes on when the ignition is turned to start, but stays on even with the engine running. Without this 2nd ground wire the alternator light never comes on.
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Smoothie  



Joined: 01 Jan 2003
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Location: DE (the one near MD, PA, NJ)

PostPosted: Mon Nov 01, 2004 2:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

tj924 wrote:
Paul wrote:
Disconnect the D+ wire and tell us what the resistance is from the D+ post on the alternator to a ground point on the alternator.


About 30 ohms to the ground wire bolt on the alternator, 32 ohms to the ground wire bolt on the engine.

I get 23.6K Ohms (23600 Ohms) from D+ to case on the spare alt in my garage (and I believe that alt is good), but I don't know what range is acceptable there. What's important is that your exciter wire and bulb are good, but don't light with ign on. That fact along with the fact that your alt ground wire's good, suggests something wrong with the alternator itself (if the alt was good, then D+ would be serving as a ground with ign on and the light would be lighting).

tj924 wrote:
If I connect a 2nd ground wire (just a 3mm 10 amp wire I had) from the D+ post to the alternator ground point on the engine, the alternator light comes on & stays on even with the engine running & revving.

This is exactly what you should get with that hook-up. D+ serves as a ground for the exciter wire and alt light with ign on, but engine not running (12V+ comes through the wire from the fuse panel end to light the light and subsequently provide exciter current to start the alt charging once the engine's running). Once the engine's running and the alt is charging D+ changes from a ground to a 12V+ source. At that point you have 12V+ at both D+ and the fuse panel end. There's no difference in potential at both ends of the circuit, so the light goes out.
When you run a wire from D+ to ground, that permanently completes the circuit, so the light stays lit.
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Last edited by Smoothie on Mon Nov 01, 2004 9:43 am; edited 2 times in total
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Joes924Racer  



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PostPosted: Mon Nov 01, 2004 2:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey TJ924 did you have the alt tested to make sure its good.
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Sleykin  



Joined: 30 Apr 2003
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Location: Medford, Oregon USA

PostPosted: Mon Nov 01, 2004 3:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The 2 ohm difference concerns me. In a charging circuit (or starting circuit) 2 ohms is a LOT of resistance. I would fix the ground from the alternator to the block to the battery.

tj924 wrote:
Paul wrote:
Disconnect the D+ wire and tell us what the resistance is from the D+ post on the alternator to a ground point on the alternator.


About 30 ohms to the ground wire bolt on the alternator, 32 ohms to the ground wire bolt on the engine.

If I connect a 2nd ground wire (just a 3mm 10 amp wire I had) from the D+ post to the alternator ground point on the engine, the alternator light comes on & stays on even with the engine running & revving.

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Paul  



Joined: 02 Nov 2002
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Location: Southeast Wisconsin

PostPosted: Mon Nov 01, 2004 6:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Time for a new alternator. Some places will test it for free if you would like a second opinion.
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