924Board.org

[dpw928]

Since rebuilding the head on my 81 931, I have been getting an intermittant miss on cylinders 1 & 4 due to no spark. This only happens during the morning hours. Did I messup/miss a connection when I put the head back on or should I look at the DTIC/connections?

Thanks,

Dennis
_________________
81 931 5 sp
78 928 5 sp Silver
78 928 AT Euro Black

[wdb]

could just be plug or coil wires leaking , grounding out where they touch metal , or a loose wire on the black plug on the distributor , it picks up the signal of when to fire the coil from the reluctor , metal ring in the distrib. or timming is off/out of phase ,or dirty injectors running those cylinders leans ,or valve problem poor compression . dirty plugs

[dpw928]

Rebuilt heads, compression OK, nearly new plug wires, distributor cap, rotor plugs. Fuel is fine, just had it checked by the shop. It appears the coil isn't getting a signal to fire on the 1 & 4 cylinders only, as there is no spark going to the distributor except on the 2 and 3 cylinders. Could the flywheel sensor not be counting teeth correctly? Can you tell I'm getting frustrated. BTW the excess unburnt fuel caused the turbo to overheat this afternoon. Anyone have a spare turbo?

Dennis
_________________
81 931 5 sp
78 928 5 sp Silver
78 928 AT Euro Black

[Smoothie]

I'd say it's something under the hood too. In my experience, every time the problem's been with the under-dash DITC connector, the tach needle was flopping around also. The DITC connector problem doesn't just stop the spark from reaching specific cylinders - it seems to scatter the spark timing, sending it out to the wrong cylinders at the wrong times because it causes all kinds of backfires, farts and other nasty sounds along with the misfires.
_________________
"..it's made in Germany. You know the Germans always make good stuff."


'82 924T, US version, dark green metallic, 5 speed Audi 016G gearbox

[Smoothie]

[dpw928]

Smoothie,

I am getting a fast drop on the tach when this happens but then it jumps back to actual. Guess the connector on the DTIC could have gotten corroded when it sat for two months. I'll check it out.

Thanks,

Dennis
_________________
81 931 5 sp
78 928 5 sp Silver
78 928 AT Euro Black

[Smoothie]

Well it's the easiest fix in the world if that's it. My first time messing with it (the 12 pin connector), I gave it a cleaning as well as I could, but since then, I just unplug and plug it back in and that clears up the problem.
_________________
"..it's made in Germany. You know the Germans always make good stuff."


'82 924T, US version, dark green metallic, 5 speed Audi 016G gearbox

[dpw928]

Just checked the connections of the DTIC. The good news is that I found a frayed/almost broken wire from the air intake temp sensor. The bad news is that the plastic holder disintigrated and about half the female connector ends broke when I attemped the take them off the unit. Think there may have been a LITTLE corroson. Anyone know of a source for the female ends and holder?

Thanks all.

Dennis
_________________
81 931 5 sp
78 928 5 sp Silver
78 928 AT Euro Black

[Smoothie]

Ouch that doesn't sound good. You're talking about the 12 pin connector, right? Was it stuck on there so tight it had to be pryed off and it broke in the process? In any case, I'd guess you'll have to find a replacement from someone with a parts car.
_________________
"..it's made in Germany. You know the Germans always make good stuff."


'82 924T, US version, dark green metallic, 5 speed Audi 016G gearbox

[dpw928]

Smoothie,

Think it was a combination. The pins were corroded and the plastic appeared to be brittle. Even after breaking the plastic holder, the pins still wouldn't come off without a lot of prying. Half of them broke at the solder joint and left the sleeve on the post. Tomorrow I'm heading for Radio Shack to see if they have a small female connector.

Dennis
_________________
81 931 5 sp
78 928 5 sp Silver
78 928 AT Euro Black

[Smoothie]

I'm pretty sure Radio Shack won't have a connector holder that you can use, but .093" female terminal pins will fit the male pins on the box.
Their part number 274-242 should include the pins you need -
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103253
_________________
"..it's made in Germany. You know the Germans always make good stuff."


'82 924T, US version, dark green metallic, 5 speed Audi 016G gearbox

[dpw928]

Thanks. Guess I can put them on and shrink wrap them.

Thanks again.

Dennis
_________________
81 931 5 sp
78 928 5 sp Silver
78 928 AT Euro Black

[dpw928]

Good news, bad news. Got the female pins at radio shack (#274-239) installed (soldered) and she is running on all 4 cylinders now.

The bad news is the turbo is gone. When it starts to boost, the screeching starts and on shutdown it sounds like BB's rattling around.

How difficult is it to pull the turbo (without removing the engine)?

Dennis
_________________
81 931 5 sp
78 928 5 sp Silver
78 928 AT Euro Black

[Lizard]

well dennis, it is at least a 10 hour job if you have never done it before.

I have done a turbo swap in less than 8 hours w/ engine in the car, but I had none of the bolts sieze up or break, so it was a very easy task,

do a search as I wrote up a step by step how to for someone.
_________________
3 928s,

[Smoothie]

If you want to leave the engine in and even leave the head and exhaust manifold attached to the block, I went through the procedure twice. It takes some patience to for instance deal with the socket head nuts on top of the bracket that holds the turbo to the block... I had about 2' of 3/8" drive wobble extensions linked together with the ratchet wrench to get at those from above.
I did it in 1995 while cooking in the sun on the driveway as that heat wave hit us - the same one that did in over 700 people in Chicago. It was not much under 100*F here that week. Anyway, at 9 years ago, I may not remember every detail, but here's what I recall -

I left the head and exhaust manifold attached to the block - didn't have to remove either.
The exhaust was removed of course - 1/2" drive ratchet with approx. 1.5' or so of extensions.
The turbo was detached from its' holding bracket as I already mentioned. That bracket was not detached from the block. As I recall, I thought about it and wanted to remove it, but couldn't get to all the bolts, so left it and as it turned out, didn't have to be removed.
The turbo was unbolted from the exhaust manifold - bolts and some or all with spacers - tedious work, some with a 3/8" ratchet wrench and extensions, some with a box-end wrench.
Oil drain was removed from the bottom - 2 bolts - I don't remember details of it, so it must have been easy. The drain line wasn't removed at the oil pan end - this I know as fact because I've never been able to remove it for fear of breaking something.
Front stabilizer bar was either removed or just detached at its' inboard mounts.
Steering rack was unbolted, but tie rod ends were not detached and not removed. -Though removal of the turbo might be made easier if the steering's detached at the right tie rod end, if you're into that sort of thing.
Cross member was not touched - well it definitely got banged and scratched a few times while the turbo was being finagled out, but it was left in place and not unbolted.
That's about it. With these things detached and/or removed, the turbo was turned and twisted in ways I'll never recall the details of, but once the puzzle of which way to turn it was solved, it was taken out the bottom in front of the cross member.


Oh yeah - also put a piece of wood under the oil pan and jacked up the engine from there to get more clearance above the cross-member. -Did not have to loosen the motor mounts.
_________________
"..it's made in Germany. You know the Germans always make good stuff."


'82 924T, US version, dark green metallic, 5 speed Audi 016G gearbox