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tuurbo  



Joined: 08 Aug 2007
Posts: 1446
Location: East Windsor, New Jersey

PostPosted: Fri Oct 03, 2008 12:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cool. Smartly organized engine bay.

Re: Buttera - Very nice interior - Hey look at the funky gauge cluster. I wonder if that was done in aluminum or metal,...
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leadfoot  



Joined: 11 Dec 2002
Posts: 2222
Location: gOLD cOAST Australia

PostPosted: Mon Oct 06, 2008 5:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Was running mine at 10,500 RPM in the final config... how often are you going to run the engine at 6000 rpm though?
Measure that sc intake too, I modified mine from 63mm to 75mm as it was restricting airflow. Your blower is going to suck alot of air too.

For me having the air con compressore there it made sense to switch a lump of metal that robs power to a lump of metal that makes power.

Stu
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Adismo  



Joined: 05 Oct 2008
Posts: 80
Location: Guatemala

PostPosted: Tue Oct 07, 2008 3:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ok im in a focking mental orgarsm MY god what a car
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RC  



Joined: 25 Mar 2007
Posts: 2637
Location: Australia

PostPosted: Tue Nov 25, 2008 8:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Been doing my bit for the environment and recycling heaps of aluminum shavings and swarf. This was left:



Just bolts together:



Bolt a bit more on:


Better stick a pressure gauge here somewhere:


Green wires for go:


Whrrr...... winds up in less than a second. OMG what a sweet sound.
WTF, 4 PSI at idle. Idle increases. This thing wants to GO. Leaking air and still 2 PSI idling. Very slowly open the TB. There`s a stable of horses on steriods in there, trying to get out. I can feel instant power holding back on the lever. Open the butterfly very slightly for a faster idle. Blower sings as it winds up a little. Pressure gauge flies past 10 and a loud pop as the blow off valve does what it was meant to.





I`m impressed!

Excellent first time test.
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ideola  



Joined: 01 Oct 2004
Posts: 15550
Location: Spring Lake MI

PostPosted: Tue Nov 25, 2008 9:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Drooooolllll! Wow wow wow! What are the chances you have the dimensions for the bracketry preserved for duplication????

Also, have you thought about a CGT-style top mount cold air induction setup? I think that would just be killer!
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Raceboy  



Joined: 01 Mar 2004
Posts: 2327
Location: Estonia, Europe

PostPosted: Wed Nov 26, 2008 2:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That is some serious piece of engineering you have there!


Very impressive!
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Adismo  



Joined: 05 Oct 2008
Posts: 80
Location: Guatemala

PostPosted: Wed Nov 26, 2008 2:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dude you have to upload a couple of videos
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leadfoot  



Joined: 11 Dec 2002
Posts: 2222
Location: gOLD cOAST Australia

PostPosted: Wed Nov 26, 2008 7:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's about time... ha
Hey nice work mate... where's the BOV though, I can't make it out amongst the shiny aluminum.
Also... mine was running 5 psi in closed loop at idle too (pre throttle) when I shifted to fixed clutch. Is your psi reading pre or post throttle? as it played havoc with the AAV before I switched to a ford solenoid based valve.
If you are running the clutch this won't be an issue.
Make sure your check valve on the brake booster is in good order too.
I take it your not running an intercooler then?
and i'd be very curious to know what manifold vacuum your running at idle too.
Awesome work... now get ready for the noise complaints from the neighbors.... he he he....
Stuart
edit: please post dyno figures when you get a chance too, maybe we can definitively post some supercharger power vs psi data for the various blower/drive ratios...
cool
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RC  



Joined: 25 Mar 2007
Posts: 2637
Location: Australia

PostPosted: Thu Nov 27, 2008 10:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

leadfoot wrote:

Measure that sc intake too, I modified mine from 63mm to 75mm as it was restricting airflow. Your blower is going to suck alot of air too.


On to that one too. Matched it to the SC port then chewed it out to 3". At the welders ATM, getting a short piece of 3"pipe grafted.



Quote:
where's the BOV though, I can't make it out amongst the shiny aluminum.


There isn`t one. Left a hose clamp off deliberately that literally blew off at 10 PSI. So little rubber caps and push on hose connections take a bit more. Progressive safety here.


Quote:
Also... mine was running 5 psi in closed loop at idle too (pre throttle) when I shifted to fixed clutch. Is your psi reading pre or post throttle? as it played havoc with the AAV before I switched to a ford solenoid based valve.


That big gauge is pre throttle while boost gauge and ECU MAP is manifold. Have a GM stepper motor IACV that doesn`t appear to move with the power on, yet?

Check valve on booster, good idea. Wonder if NA and turbo ones are same part #. Need a good one now.
Also have a FMIC to go on soon.

Also got a more reliable BOV , made a flange and had it welded to my charge pipe. Then cleaned it out and radiused internally.




Quote:
Also, have you thought about a CGT-style top mount cold air induction setup? I think that would just be killer!

Not CGT top mount specifically, but have been pondering the various location to suck cool air from. Any details, pics?

Thanks again for the compliments, keep em coming.
Will look at taking a video when I grow more hands.
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ideola  



Joined: 01 Oct 2004
Posts: 15550
Location: Spring Lake MI

PostPosted: Fri Nov 28, 2008 3:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here comes the pressure differential chart again:


If it were me, I'd set the CGT scoop somewhere around point 11 or 12. Even though those spots are less than ideal regarding the pressure zone, the raised surface of the CGT scoop should create a somewhat higher pressure at it's entrance. Then I'd build an airbox out of tin to surround the air filter and make a flush mount, sealed interface with the hood scoop.

Here's a couple of pix to give you an idea of where I'm thinking:



And here's a snap of Bruce's car to give you an idea of what the scoop looks like in a more forward position, only yours would go on the other side.



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leadfoot  



Joined: 11 Dec 2002
Posts: 2222
Location: gOLD cOAST Australia

PostPosted: Fri Nov 28, 2008 8:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

A friend of mine once cut 1 inch off the width of the firewall divider and made his underbonnet temperatures drop by 15deg.
I guess maybe rolling the rear side of the bonnet might be an option too then? I'd obviously need a car dan to go look at for this... cough cough..
I can't even remeber if there is an angle to roll.

If you could be stuffed I think a dual rad/intercooler setup would be the way to go by redesigning the front crossmember.
angle the rad backwards and use the gap at the top for the intercooler. with an air dam they would make something like an L shape.
stu.
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ideola  



Joined: 01 Oct 2004
Posts: 15550
Location: Spring Lake MI

PostPosted: Fri Nov 28, 2008 11:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah, I've read similar things too, like even removing the gasket along the firewall. I've been noodling over the possibilities of using cowl induction methods for add'l cooling. I think if you did that, though, you would want to box in and seal the area all the way around the cabin vent inlet to prevent engine fumes from being sucked into the cabin.

The one thing that does concern me about this though is what it would do to the pressure differential in the engine bay itself...you wouldn't want to increase pressure under the hood/bonnet because it could have an impact on airflow through your front mounted heat exchangers. If I attempt anything like this, I'm going to proceed with some caution...not do anything permanent until I can actually test differentials with a magnahelic gauge or something.

So, RC, did you make drawings or patterns or otherwise record the dimensions of the brackets for the supercharger mounts?
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bruni  



Joined: 26 Jul 2008
Posts: 114
Location: South Africa

PostPosted: Sat Nov 29, 2008 7:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
The one thing that does concern me about this though is what it would do to the pressure differential in the engine bay itself...you wouldn't want to increase pressure under the hood/bonnet because it could have an impact on airflow through your front mounted heat exchangers. If I attempt anything like this, I'm going to proceed with some caution

Very wise, as you point out it is all about pressure differentials, it may well be that at certain speeds (low speed) that are would vent out of the rear of the bonnet, however as the speed rises it may well be that the pressure at the rear of the bonnet increases until it is higher than the under bonnet pressure. The best option I believe is to duct the exit from your heat exchangers out through the top of the bonnet into the low pressure are between points 11 & 12 it is important that it is properly ducted and sealed, this will get maximum efficiency from your rad and intercooler As for the air intake any were at the front will pick up air at ambient. One thing to note if you duct the heat exchangers any air intake behind the outlet will take in hot air, this includes the air vents inside the car, however it's well worth it because not only do you improve your heat exchangers, you should also reduce some of the front end lift, one of those rare occasions when it's a win win
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tlake  



Joined: 30 Sep 2008
Posts: 43
Location: WA

PostPosted: Thu Dec 11, 2008 8:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Turbos large and small, promise fun for one & all, lol.

Turbo Boid 4.9
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Tiny  



Joined: 10 Apr 2006
Posts: 502
Location: London, UK

PostPosted: Thu Dec 11, 2008 11:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

wOw that is some awesome work you are doing my man....and what great inspiration!
I cannot wait to see and hear more.....

When you do get a chance....please please pleaaaaaaaase can you shoot a bit of video with it running for us (me especially) to drool further over!

It must sound sweet
best wishes
Tiny


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