924Board.org

[Joes924]

1.
Ok when I turn onto my street& slow down to
below 20 mph, say 15 to 10 theres still a clacking sound and its eminating from the
brakes some how. Because if I lightly apply pressure to the brakes it stops with one last clank what is this.

2.
When I let out the clutch just to where it starts to engage it makes a strange sound before engaging and if I let it out a ltle more stopping before its fully engaged it will chatter.

I have a new disc and a throw out bearing to put in you guys think I should get a pressure plate also.The plan is to do that and switch torque tubes(hopefully with new bearings) and 5 spds with the new one filled with redline oil. After my seats are installed.Im goin to the pool

[Smoothie]

On #1, unless you've already ruled this out somehow - it could actually be a cv joint, not necessarily the brakes - the thrust on the cv joint reverses when you put on the brakes, changing or eliminating the noise.

[larso]

Yup, although maybe a bit unsafe, you could elimate brake possibilty by take out the brake pads at the back, and drive the car around the block using the front brakeses. Take one side off at a time to figure out which CV it is or which wheel it is. I guess if you have drums it would be a pain but with discs it's easy. Shake the cv joints and if they go click click they are probably shot.

[gohim]

If you have a four wheel disc brake car, and you remove the rear pads and step on the brakes, the rear pistons will overextend, out of the caliper bores and hit the rotors before the front brakes will become effective.

Doing this will ruin the rear rotors, and the caliper pistons. You could also end up with your car stuffed into a tree. That's not too smart.

To disccnect the rear calipers, you would need to block the fluid flow by unscrewing and plugging the lines leading to the calipers, and remove the pads.

In a car with rear drum brakes, you would also have to disconnect and plug the rear brake lines.

[924 turbo]

Yeah, bad idea Lars. The brake system is split diagonally on the 924, so you'll be driving the pistons right out of the calipers.

Joe: The chatter might be due to the flywheel. How did it look when you swapped the disc in? And did you lubricate the pilot bearing?

[larso]

Sorry for the confusion. Didn't realize that he had discs, I thought the 924 he has had drums. If you popped off the cylinder out of the drum and let it hang somewhere safe. the cylinder would just move in and out without doing or touching anything. But on discs that's a different story and you would have to disconnect the line and close it off.
Would be easier to plug anyway because I don't, for the life of me, remember how the drum cylinder works, whether it just bottoms out at a certain amount, or wether the piston comes right out. I would always test in the garage before driving of course.



[ This Message was edited by: larso on 2002-08-15 11:42 ]

[Joes924]

Yes thats right I have drums,Um its not the flywheel, its a slow click that stop when I step on the brake. Ill tell you what if I lightly step on the brake it clicks,If I rapidly step on the brake lightly real lightly it rapidly clicks. Whenever I lightly step on the brake goin under 10 mph
it clicks I dont know what the sound is.
A click or a clack.The brakes are not faulty & unsafe.
though.

[wdb]

could it be the sheet metal repair you made to the firewall . does the brake pedal mount to the firewall.

[924 turbo]

Joe, that was in reference to the clutch problem you stated above, remember?

[Joes924]

You know it was doin it before the sheetmetal repair and I once thought it was the clutch ,now I know its a brake thing..
maybe Ill have to let the mechanic look atit.
European car clinic.

[Rick MacLaren]

Could just be the brakes...

lol

[Lizard]

hey Joe tighten up or check the rear drums and make sure that nut holding them on is really tight cause I had a thunking cause of that also jack up your back end ebrake off car in gear and move the wheels see how much play is in the transaxle or how much noise comes out of it

[Joes924]

Thats not the prob. No I have new cotter pins in there and its all torqued down tight and safe.I just opened it up to check the bearings cause the front drive side needed repalcing and the thought was then that maybe the shoes were clicking on the drum cause of a broken inner mechanism no it wasnt the case this was a
few months ago.

[larso]

A bad CV joint will click if you turn real tight in a parking lot and go about 15MPH. It is more noticeable on a front wheel drive car. It won't usually give you any feed back in the steering wheel, whereas a bad shock or other susp. component would.

If you replace the CV with a rebuilt one, and you get the noise coming back...it still can be the CV joint. Have had experience with rebuilt cv joints being bad.

[Roger Hall]

I had a similar noise which sounded like it was comming from the right rear wheel I checked the brakes, wheel berrings, CV Joints, transmission and clutch. Finaly I gave up and let the mechanic fix it. It was a total clutch job $900 OUCH!!!! I was sure it wasnt the clutch but the mechanic removed the rubber cover from the bell housing where the drive tube meets the transmission and there was play in the drive shaft. He assured me that the clutch replacement would solve the problem and it did hope your problem is less expensive than mine