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Jonus
Joined: 22 Aug 2006 Posts: 35 Location: Grand Forks, BC
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Posted: Sat May 10, 2008 3:10 pm Post subject: For your viewing pleasure: Turbo Manifold |
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Well...here it is after the car got her fill of our blood, sweat and tears. (Min and I)
I cant quite bolt it in at the moment as I am waiting on some SS spring washers, but you will get more photos when I have it all nestled in place for good - well, as "for good" as it can be right?
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Rasta Monsta

Joined: 12 Jul 2006 Posts: 11733 Location: PacNW
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Posted: Sat May 10, 2008 3:33 pm Post subject: |
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Wow, that is a hefty collector. How did you decide on the diameter? _________________ Toofah King Bad
- WeiBe (1987 924S 2.5t) - 931 S3
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Min

Joined: 04 Nov 2002 Posts: 2368 Location: Vernon, British Columbia, Canada
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Posted: Sat May 10, 2008 4:20 pm Post subject: |
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| Rasta Monsta wrote: | | Wow, that is a hefty collector. How did you decide on the diameter? |
I like to call this 'copying' there is a few pictures of manifolds in maximum boost that are similarly sized.
Min _________________ Custom means it didn't come from a box.
1980 n/a with EDIS and Megasquirt II Injection. 7 different colors and counting. |
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leadfoot

Joined: 11 Dec 2002 Posts: 2222 Location: gOLD cOAST Australia
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Posted: Sat May 10, 2008 5:17 pm Post subject: |
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nice work, better to use copper washers though to go with copper exhaust nuts...
you can get them from Wurth in packs of 25 enought to doa the whole exhaust system...
Stuart _________________ 1981 ROW 924 Turbo -
carbon fiber GT mish mash
LS1 conversion in progress... |
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ideola

Joined: 01 Oct 2004 Posts: 15550 Location: Spring Lake MI
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Posted: Sat May 10, 2008 9:39 pm Post subject: |
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Wow! That's some serious welding! Stainless I assume?
Excellent work guys! _________________ erstwhile owner of just about every 924 variant ever made |
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Min

Joined: 04 Nov 2002 Posts: 2368 Location: Vernon, British Columbia, Canada
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Posted: Sun May 11, 2008 4:18 am Post subject: |
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| leadfoot wrote: | nice work, better to use copper washers though to go with copper exhaust nuts...
you can get them from Wurth in packs of 25 enought to doa the whole exhaust system...
Stuart |
Maximum boost recommends against copper, we're using stainless steel hardware.
Min _________________ Custom means it didn't come from a box.
1980 n/a with EDIS and Megasquirt II Injection. 7 different colors and counting. |
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Min

Joined: 04 Nov 2002 Posts: 2368 Location: Vernon, British Columbia, Canada
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Posted: Sun May 11, 2008 4:21 am Post subject: |
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| ideola wrote: | Wow! That's some serious welding! Stainless I assume?
Excellent work guys! |
I did it all myself with a oxy torch, it pressure tests fine to 50psi, that was a learning experience alright(considering last time I torch welded was umm, 15 years ago?). Its not stainless, its mild steel. Its ceramic coated though. We also did that ourselves. Some of the welds don't look that great, but it will work fine.
Min _________________ Custom means it didn't come from a box.
1980 n/a with EDIS and Megasquirt II Injection. 7 different colors and counting. |
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vemser
Joined: 06 May 2008 Posts: 46 Location: Russia, Moscow
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Pieter

Joined: 06 Mar 2008 Posts: 53 Location: South Africa
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Posted: Sun May 11, 2008 5:24 am Post subject: |
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| Did the ceramic coating yourself? How would one go about doing that. Looks like this manifold is going onto a NA head? What thickness is the steel you used? I might make copy of your mani, but with a mig welder instead, should be easier/ faster (at least for me). Well, maybe i will TIG it first, but inclusions will mean it wont be a perfect seal, so mig for seal. |
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Min

Joined: 04 Nov 2002 Posts: 2368 Location: Vernon, British Columbia, Canada
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Posted: Sun May 11, 2008 6:44 am Post subject: |
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| Pieter wrote: | | Did the ceramic coating yourself? How would one go about doing that. |
Yep, http://www.caswellplating.com/powder/ceramics.html is the product we used, followed the instructions and it went on no problem.
| Pieter wrote: | | Looks like this manifold is going onto a NA head? What thickness is the steel you used? |
Yep, 1/2 inch plate for the flanges, schedule 40 weld elbows for the piping (1/8 inch thick) http://sdsefi.com/techheader.htm
| Pieter wrote: | | I might make copy of your mani, but with a mig welder instead, should be easier/ faster (at least for me). Well, maybe i will TIG it first, but inclusions will mean it wont be a perfect seal, so mig for seal. |
I just used the oxy torch because it was inexpensive and playing with hot flames is fun. Took a bit to get the hang of making it so it would seal though. If you do end up with pinholes, you can drill them out and weld over them pretty easily.
Min _________________ Custom means it didn't come from a box.
1980 n/a with EDIS and Megasquirt II Injection. 7 different colors and counting. |
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Chrenan

Joined: 15 Jan 2003 Posts: 3903 Location: Canada
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Posted: Sun May 11, 2008 6:50 am Post subject: |
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Nice work Min! _________________ 1987 951 - M193 Version for Japan |
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Min

Joined: 04 Nov 2002 Posts: 2368 Location: Vernon, British Columbia, Canada
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Posted: Sun May 11, 2008 7:11 am Post subject: |
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| Chrenan wrote: | | Nice work Min! |
It turned out ok, next time we're going to spend alot more time making sure pieces fit better so we can get away with smaller welds on the runners, but it will work just fine.
Min _________________ Custom means it didn't come from a box.
1980 n/a with EDIS and Megasquirt II Injection. 7 different colors and counting. |
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Min

Joined: 04 Nov 2002 Posts: 2368 Location: Vernon, British Columbia, Canada
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Posted: Sun May 11, 2008 7:32 am Post subject: |
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oh, forgot the mention, the flanges were plasma cut using a cad drawing that khal made up for me. If anyone wants it, I can send it along.
Min _________________ Custom means it didn't come from a box.
1980 n/a with EDIS and Megasquirt II Injection. 7 different colors and counting. |
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Min

Joined: 04 Nov 2002 Posts: 2368 Location: Vernon, British Columbia, Canada
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Posted: Sun May 11, 2008 8:55 am Post subject: |
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| leadfoot wrote: | | nice work, better to use copper washers though to go with copper exhaust nuts... |
Page 127 of maximum boost states
| Quote: | The most reasonable solution to fastener problems is stainless steel. Stainless steel bolts work better at temperatures above 1200F. Below that, stainless is nice but not cost-effective. Depending on the style of joint, three fasteners are possible: through-bolt, stud, or bolt. Observe the following guidelines:
- A through-bolt with nut (a con-rod bolt, for example) is always the first choice.
- A stud anchored in a threaded receiver (cylinder head to exhaust manifold, for example) is a decent second choice.
- Last and clearly least is a bolt screwed into a threaded reciever. These joints cannot stay tight unless secured with safety wire. Use only as a last resort.
Large, heavy, flat washers are necessary, as are lockwashers. Forget using any form of spring lockwasher, as the heat treat merely gets cooked out. Interference-style lockwashers, with ramps, ridges, or serrations, are the only lockwashers that are survivors.
Stainless steel mechanical locknuts are able to keep a positive lock at high temperature. Copper-alloy locknuts cannot cut the temperature; they simply sag.
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Copper locknuts are good for NA applications (and is what I use on my NA car) but according to corky bell, they aren't adequate for turbocharged applications. As such we've sourced stainless steel locknuts and stainless steel serrated washers.
Min _________________ Custom means it didn't come from a box.
1980 n/a with EDIS and Megasquirt II Injection. 7 different colors and counting. |
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Min

Joined: 04 Nov 2002 Posts: 2368 Location: Vernon, British Columbia, Canada
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Posted: Sun May 11, 2008 8:59 am Post subject: |
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For those of you interested in the design itself, check page 121 of maximum boost. you can clearly see which ones we copied.
Min _________________ Custom means it didn't come from a box.
1980 n/a with EDIS and Megasquirt II Injection. 7 different colors and counting. |
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