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For your viewing pleasure: Turbo Manifold
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Jonus  



Joined: 22 Aug 2006
Posts: 35
Location: Grand Forks, BC

PostPosted: Sat May 10, 2008 3:10 pm    Post subject: For your viewing pleasure: Turbo Manifold Reply with quote

Well...here it is after the car got her fill of our blood, sweat and tears. (Min and I)

I cant quite bolt it in at the moment as I am waiting on some SS spring washers, but you will get more photos when I have it all nestled in place for good - well, as "for good" as it can be right?



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Rasta Monsta  



Joined: 12 Jul 2006
Posts: 11733
Location: PacNW

PostPosted: Sat May 10, 2008 3:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wow, that is a hefty collector. How did you decide on the diameter?
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Min  



Joined: 04 Nov 2002
Posts: 2368
Location: Vernon, British Columbia, Canada

PostPosted: Sat May 10, 2008 4:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rasta Monsta wrote:
Wow, that is a hefty collector. How did you decide on the diameter?


I like to call this 'copying' there is a few pictures of manifolds in maximum boost that are similarly sized.

Min
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leadfoot  



Joined: 11 Dec 2002
Posts: 2222
Location: gOLD cOAST Australia

PostPosted: Sat May 10, 2008 5:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

nice work, better to use copper washers though to go with copper exhaust nuts...
you can get them from Wurth in packs of 25 enought to doa the whole exhaust system...
Stuart
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carbon fiber GT mish mash
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ideola  



Joined: 01 Oct 2004
Posts: 15550
Location: Spring Lake MI

PostPosted: Sat May 10, 2008 9:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wow! That's some serious welding! Stainless I assume?

Excellent work guys!
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Min  



Joined: 04 Nov 2002
Posts: 2368
Location: Vernon, British Columbia, Canada

PostPosted: Sun May 11, 2008 4:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

leadfoot wrote:
nice work, better to use copper washers though to go with copper exhaust nuts...
you can get them from Wurth in packs of 25 enought to doa the whole exhaust system...
Stuart


Maximum boost recommends against copper, we're using stainless steel hardware.

Min
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Min  



Joined: 04 Nov 2002
Posts: 2368
Location: Vernon, British Columbia, Canada

PostPosted: Sun May 11, 2008 4:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ideola wrote:
Wow! That's some serious welding! Stainless I assume?

Excellent work guys!


I did it all myself with a oxy torch, it pressure tests fine to 50psi, that was a learning experience alright(considering last time I torch welded was umm, 15 years ago?). Its not stainless, its mild steel. Its ceramic coated though. We also did that ourselves. Some of the welds don't look that great, but it will work fine.

Min
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vemser  



Joined: 06 May 2008
Posts: 46
Location: Russia, Moscow

PostPosted: Sun May 11, 2008 4:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

http://rus.vems.hu/punbb/attachment.php?item=102

It's my BAE manifold. Just picture for viewing...
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Pieter  



Joined: 06 Mar 2008
Posts: 53
Location: South Africa

PostPosted: Sun May 11, 2008 5:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Did the ceramic coating yourself? How would one go about doing that. Looks like this manifold is going onto a NA head? What thickness is the steel you used? I might make copy of your mani, but with a mig welder instead, should be easier/ faster (at least for me). Well, maybe i will TIG it first, but inclusions will mean it wont be a perfect seal, so mig for seal.
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Min  



Joined: 04 Nov 2002
Posts: 2368
Location: Vernon, British Columbia, Canada

PostPosted: Sun May 11, 2008 6:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pieter wrote:
Did the ceramic coating yourself? How would one go about doing that.


Yep, http://www.caswellplating.com/powder/ceramics.html is the product we used, followed the instructions and it went on no problem.

Pieter wrote:
Looks like this manifold is going onto a NA head? What thickness is the steel you used?


Yep, 1/2 inch plate for the flanges, schedule 40 weld elbows for the piping (1/8 inch thick) http://sdsefi.com/techheader.htm

Pieter wrote:
I might make copy of your mani, but with a mig welder instead, should be easier/ faster (at least for me). Well, maybe i will TIG it first, but inclusions will mean it wont be a perfect seal, so mig for seal.


I just used the oxy torch because it was inexpensive and playing with hot flames is fun. Took a bit to get the hang of making it so it would seal though. If you do end up with pinholes, you can drill them out and weld over them pretty easily.

Min
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Chrenan  



Joined: 15 Jan 2003
Posts: 3903
Location: Canada

PostPosted: Sun May 11, 2008 6:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice work Min!
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Min  



Joined: 04 Nov 2002
Posts: 2368
Location: Vernon, British Columbia, Canada

PostPosted: Sun May 11, 2008 7:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Chrenan wrote:
Nice work Min!


It turned out ok, next time we're going to spend alot more time making sure pieces fit better so we can get away with smaller welds on the runners, but it will work just fine.

Min
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Min  



Joined: 04 Nov 2002
Posts: 2368
Location: Vernon, British Columbia, Canada

PostPosted: Sun May 11, 2008 7:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

oh, forgot the mention, the flanges were plasma cut using a cad drawing that khal made up for me. If anyone wants it, I can send it along.

Min
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Min  



Joined: 04 Nov 2002
Posts: 2368
Location: Vernon, British Columbia, Canada

PostPosted: Sun May 11, 2008 8:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

leadfoot wrote:
nice work, better to use copper washers though to go with copper exhaust nuts...


Page 127 of maximum boost states

Quote:
The most reasonable solution to fastener problems is stainless steel. Stainless steel bolts work better at temperatures above 1200F. Below that, stainless is nice but not cost-effective. Depending on the style of joint, three fasteners are possible: through-bolt, stud, or bolt. Observe the following guidelines:
- A through-bolt with nut (a con-rod bolt, for example) is always the first choice.
- A stud anchored in a threaded receiver (cylinder head to exhaust manifold, for example) is a decent second choice.
- Last and clearly least is a bolt screwed into a threaded reciever. These joints cannot stay tight unless secured with safety wire. Use only as a last resort.
Large, heavy, flat washers are necessary, as are lockwashers. Forget using any form of spring lockwasher, as the heat treat merely gets cooked out. Interference-style lockwashers, with ramps, ridges, or serrations, are the only lockwashers that are survivors.
Stainless steel mechanical locknuts are able to keep a positive lock at high temperature. Copper-alloy locknuts cannot cut the temperature; they simply sag.


Copper locknuts are good for NA applications (and is what I use on my NA car) but according to corky bell, they aren't adequate for turbocharged applications. As such we've sourced stainless steel locknuts and stainless steel serrated washers.

Min
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Min  



Joined: 04 Nov 2002
Posts: 2368
Location: Vernon, British Columbia, Canada

PostPosted: Sun May 11, 2008 8:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

For those of you interested in the design itself, check page 121 of maximum boost. you can clearly see which ones we copied.

Min
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