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Cluch replacement problems
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Alex Roy  
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 16, 2001 10:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

---okay, I am replacing my cluch/t.o. bearing/pressure plate, but I have encountered a problem. The cluch will not disengage. The pressure plate does release the clutch when the pedal is pressed (or so it seams) but the cluch is still most of the way engaged so that when I try to go into gear while the engine is running it grinds the gears even when the pedal is floored and my cable adjustment is maxed. I re-removed the trans and torque tube and the shaft stiks out 15 cm from the mounting plate on the torque tube, I had heard somewhere that the drive shaft was only supposed to go 13.5 cm from the mounting flange...is this correct, or am I on crack? Any ideas?

Thanks,
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dpw928  
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 16, 2001 12:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It appears the clutch lever the cable attaches to is misaligned. Set the adjustment on the cable at the proper setting (138mm), loosen the bolt on the lever and make sure it will rotate on the yoke shaft. Make sure the lever stays hooked into the cable. Then use a long screwdriver or lever to move the throwout bearing forward (toward the clutch)until it is against the pressure plate. Tighten the lever bolt on the shaft while holding the yoke forward. This should put everthing back into alignment.

Dennis
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Alex Roy  
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 16, 2001 2:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have gone through that a few times, that does not seem to be my issue.
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 16, 2001 11:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Where do you hear the grinding noise from?? My first reaction to this ...sounds like the clutch is in backwards. One side of the clucth disc has more offset than the other. If in backwards you will get a grinding noise everytime you push the clutch in because it is grinding against the bolts that hold the flywheel to the crank. When you let the peddle out it acts as if it engauging, but it it really bottoming out against these bolts. I have made this mistake before myself rushing the job and learned the hard way to double check this. This may be the problem... I will check back to this post later, let me know if I am way off base or not.
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Alex Roy  
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 17, 2001 3:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Grinding when going into each gear, IE, trying to go into gear when the clutch is engaged. The things I have thought of as possibilities are:

broken (and therefore streching) cluch cable---When I set the lever at 138mm at the point the throw-out engages, my cluch cable's adjustment bolts are all the way to the end of the cable (IE: I can't tighten the cable any further).

Pilot Bearing---does the 924 n/a use a pilot bearing? I was paying so much attention to the Hanes manual steps for replacing the cluch that I didn't even look to see if there was one. The diagrams in the Hanes manual don't show a pilot bearing.


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 17, 2001 8:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I looked at the manual my self and have you tried this .... go under the car and pull on the clutch lever and se if there is any slack. If not give your self some at the peddle ajustment. Then unbolt the lever and move it a few degrees on the spline. What you are trying to accomplish in affect is to kind of preload to peddle a little as to get the full pull of the peddle. It must be engauging a very slight amount. Can you start the car in gear with the wheels on the ground or does the car lurch too much? By the way I know the manual gives a certain length of 138 +/-2mm sometimes what it should be and what will work are two different things. All you don't want to do is tighten the cable too much as to cause the clutch to slip.
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eturbo924  
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 18, 2001 4:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Alex Was the clutch working before replacement. I guess I am confused here. Did you do a clutch job or are you trying to do one? If you have not yet performed the clutch replacement was the car driven lately?
Fill me in.
Eric.Lynch@itt.com
Eric
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Alex Roy  
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 20, 2001 4:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The clutch was pretty screwed when I got it. I got the clutch back out and the pilot bearing is crap (it is halfway disintegrated and it is full of bits and pieces), I have the new one, but I can't get the old one off. The new one has threads on the back side of it, so what I want to know is if there is a bolt from the inside of the crankshaft that holds the pilot bearing, or is it just a bitch to get out? Any and all help is appreciated.

_________________
Alex Roy
White 924 N/A, Weber DCOE40s, Gembala body kit

[ This Message was edited by: Alex Roy on 2001-09-20 04:21 ]
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Smoothie  
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 20, 2001 5:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You often need one of these to pull a pilot bearing:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=4876

or from JC Whitney:
http://www.jcwhitney.com/SearchCatContainer.jhtml?_requestid=42869

Have to be real carefull with these - the 3 little jaws that go it to grab the back of the bearing are relatively fragile. I've had one with a broken jaw for several years now sitting in a box waiting to be welded.

[ This Message was edited by: Smoothie on 2001-09-20 05:12 ]

[ This Message was edited by: Smoothie on 2001-09-20 05:47 ]
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Alex Roy  
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 20, 2001 6:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just checked at my local Harbor Freight store and they have a few in stock for $15.99, I'll pick one up tonight to see if it helps.

Thanks
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Smoothie  
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 20, 2001 7:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

A Harbor Freight store!?! You Oregon folk are so lucky! To be right there in person with all that fantastic stuff, the steel, the cast iron, the $17.99 4" grinder, the $39.99 Heavy Duty Trailer Dolley, the $4.99 set of 3 Aviation Tin Snips (right, left and straight), the air scented with the smell of plain brown corrugated boxes... I have to only imagine these things as I order by phone from a catalog... and wait a couple weeks - and spend at least $50 to get the free shipping... That's it, I'm moving. What's the sales tax over there?

If you break the puller and have to go back and buy a second one for parts - will you sell me a jaw? (Just kidding.)
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Alex Roy  
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 20, 2001 7:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You are going to kick yourself now.....no sales tax, but there is local income tax, but if you just visit, you don't have to pay sales or income tax.
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Alex Roy  
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 20, 2001 7:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

...also, I just called one of the local small Porsche mechanics, and he told me what to do.....the threads in the back of the pilot bearing are only there so you can thread a bolt into there and turn the bolt with a wrench and pop out the bearing, no puller required! I'll try that as soon as I get home tonight.
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Smoothie  
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 20, 2001 8:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oh man...no sales tax, no pilot bearing puller even needed, Porsche mechanics that tell you stuff for free, trees, mountains, rivers and a Harbor Freight store that you can drive to? I just hope you realize how happy you must be. Our closest river has a dump along side and plastic bags and garbage hanging out of its' banks and I dropped $400 in the commodities exchange today.... But actually, I do have an '82 924 Turbo... hmmm..... ok, I just realized I'm happy too.
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 22, 2001 4:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

So what are you saying ...Am I trying to help you get your new clutch working...that you havn't installed yet??
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