924Board.org

[Alex Roy]

Adam: No, I have already installed it and it wasn't working properly, adjusting in any way, shape, or form didn't fix the problem so I removed the clutch again to find the pilot bearing was completely @#!@#!%$. I have now gotten it out (none of the "tricks" worked, I had to use a die grinder to grind half of it away so I could chisel it the rest of the way out). I am now reinstalling the clutch etc.

Thanks for the help everybody, it is much appreciated. Hopefully this problem is solved.

[Joes924]

Alex when i did my clutch i also used a new cable and had the same prob. so i startwed the cable adjustment at about half way maybe less more to the top and then went underneath and pulled on the throw out bearing ,loosend up the lever and pulled down on it all the way as far as i could tightend it down went and adjusted the cable all the way out and it worked i had to do this a few times as 1 time the cable end came off the pedal in side the car then it slipped off the lever and 1 time even i just didnt have the cable adjustment back out towards the top enough then loosen the lever and pull down on all the way then retighten pull on the bearing with a tool small reg . screwdriver turned sideways or 3/8. drive
end then adjust all the way out. It works

[marky522]

when you figure out the problem let me know i have had the exact same problem, i actually had to quit driving the car and buy a Geo Tracker cause i couldent rely on the car. Anyways... I have replaced the clutch and t/o bearing, which i melted the first new t/o bearing, and have put 2 new clutches in, i have also put a used bellhouse and used cluitch cable on it to no avail. My prob was the car would go great but every now and then 1 in 4 stops, i would hold the clutch in and get a really bad grinding noise, and when i shift it was hard to get it to go gear to gear, like the clutch wasnt completely disingaged, i havent turned the flywheel or pilot bearing. I am now putting a new pilot bearing OEM clutch kit (sachs) and T/o bearing, lightened flywheel, and a new clutch cable, my assumption is that if i replace the whol system that it has to fix the prob. ( and all for the low low price of $450 plus all the extras)

Mark

[Alex Roy]

Well..........it didn't work.

I need to know how far the pressure plate is SUPPOSED to open.

My clutch plate is 10.1mm thick, and the new pressure plate barely moves--certianly not enough to be releasing the clutch--even with excessive adjustments to the clutch lever. The only thing I can think of to do next is put the old pressure plate back on as it worked fine before I started this whole mess, the only problem I was having was that the T/O bearing (or pilot bearing) made a horrendous noise when the clutch was not engaged. The old clutch plate was certianly crap, and the old pilot bearing also turned out to be crap (and a nightmare to replace).

[Joes924]

Ya wanna sell a pressure plate,jusr kidding ..um the clutch isnt in backwards is it prob. wouldnt go together the adjustment on my cable is more tham 138mm about 10 -13 mm more than spec.I think but it works ... somethings not right here... before you tear it apart try the adjusting thing a few times starting from the top of adjustment screwdriver for bearing , pull lever down step by step...

hows the pedal feel...normal?

_________________
Its my 924 ..and I like it/ 1979 924 Joe



[ This Message was edited by: Joes924 on 2001-10-11 03:53 ]

[Guest]

I wouldn't treat the haynes manual like the holy grail. Not every figure and # is accurate. I wish I lived close enough to come help you guys out. Best I can do is try to help trouble shoot. I would check the peddle as well ... even pull back on it first. If there is any slack at all you are losing pull on the cable. Remember you can't compare what you had when you had worn out parts. You suddenly have thicker components..clutch pressure plate etc.. This clutch system is almost enfinately ajustable. If you can't get get the adjustment through the cable. You must take the arm off the bell housing and move it on the spline. There is a spline there for a reason. As I described in a past post you can sort of preload the cable, as long as not to apply enough pressure to make the clucth slip. Just foget about the 138mm for now. Keep us posted on your progress and try not to swear more than needed eh. Also did you compare your old pressure plate beside the new one to ensure it was the right one as well as the cluth center offset? It will be hard to check now of coarse.

[ This Message was edited by: ADAM!! on 2001-09-25 04:22 ]

[924RACR]

Mark:

I have still received no payment for the bellhousing I sent you in good faith. This is a known good part; I used it for a whole season without issues.

I have proposed numerous options, since we determined that you didn't necessarily need the part after disassembling the car for clutch replacement the last time. However, you have failed to even reply to me, hence my need to post to this forum.

I can understand you might be a bit frustrated by the lack of a solution to your clutch problem; however, this does not free you of your financial and personal obligations.

Now, will you fulfill your promises and remit payment, or do you intend to piss off everyone else beyond me on this board, not to mention force me to drive up and get payment in person? Remember, it's a short drive up to Port Huron, and I _do_ know where you live. I don't think your parents would be much impressed by a phone call or a personal visit from someone you stiffed a month ago.

_________________
Vaughan Scott
Webmeister
'79 924 #77 SCCA H Prod racecar
'82 931 Plat. Silver
#25 Hidari Firefly P2 sports prototype

[924RACR]

I should also perhaps point out the benefits of being on your good side: since I do live not far away, and am generally of a good disposition, if you were in my good graces I might even consider a trip up as I have time to help you diagnose your clutch problem. Naturally, I have plenty of used parts we could compare with, not to mention plenty of familiarity with the system when properly working.

However, I'm not likely to spend time helping you with the problem if I'm calling to collect.

_________________
Vaughan Scott
Webmeister
'79 924 #77 SCCA H Prod racecar
'82 931 Plat. Silver
#25 Hidari Firefly P2 sports prototype

[Rick MacLaren]

Shoot, this reminds me, I owe Lars $50! Damn.

[marky522]

Well, now that i am completely humiliated!!!! I havent been on the net lately due to my internet disconnection going down... Any way 924 racr i meantin no way to piss you off and to try and make it up to you, i will send your bellhouse back, and also include the tach that you wanted. I would really appreciate your help diagnosing the problem. Again sorry didnt mean to piss anyone off...

Mark

[Alex Roy]

Well.......it is fixed. the problem was a worn spot on the splined end of the drive shaft towards the engine. It was worn perfectly around the shaft, so I didn't detect it as a defect until I pulled the trans and the shaft again and tested the old clutch on the shaft (pulling it all out for a 3rd time) and the clutch wouldn't pass the worn spot. This kept the clutch from being able to move along the shaft and pressed the clutch disk firmly against the flywheel and is what was causing the problem. I can now proudly say that I can change the clutch in a 924 in a matter of 4 hours total, and I never want to do it again.

_________________
Alex Roy
White 924 N/A, Weber DCOE40s, Gemballa body kit

[ This Message was edited by: Alex Roy on 2001-10-16 07:10 ]

[Guest]

I would have never thought to look there, congrats. to you and your winning of the battle of with the clutch war.

[Joes924]

.. alright 4 hrs ...

_________________
Its my 924 ..and I like it ...and yes its getting faster/ 1979 924 Joe

[ This Message was edited by: Joes924 on 2001-10-16 14:40 ]

[ This Message was edited by: Joes924 on 2001-10-19 10:57 ]

[marky522]

Hello, and congrats on fixing your car. Since i have the same prob what did you do to fix it? I can actuall remember getting frustrated and seeing that worn down....

Mark

[Alex Roy]

Hey Mark,

I got out the grinder and ground down the area and rounded it out. I ground down just enough to take off the warn down part so the clutch could slide easily, then I sanded the area (inbetween the splines too) with 200 grit, then 500 grit sand paper while spraying with wd40 periodicly. I used the old clutch to test the splines to make sure they were freed up, then installed the new clutch et.all and now it works perfectly, I didn't even have to fudge the lever angle, it all went perfectly with the recomended settings from the Haines manual.