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Engine and Transaxle mounts

 
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DemosT  



Joined: 26 Jun 2025
Posts: 17
Location: Italy

PostPosted: Fri Jan 23, 2026 11:15 pm    Post subject: Engine and Transaxle mounts Reply with quote

On my relentless quest to quiet down my 1983 2.0 NA, i returned to the one issue i suspected since day one of owning this car. The damned engine mounts.

What i am facing is an intense vibration i feel through the gearshift lever and clutch pedal when at 3000 rpm, which subsides from the shift lever upon reaching 3400ish rpm.

At 2000-2200 rpm I also hear a distinct rapid metallic sound, similar to a buzzsaw cutting through metal which also makes me suspect the exhaust is moving in a certain way aswell, though i don't know if that can be traced back to the bad engine mounts.
And during a trip from Italy to the Netherlands the exhaust broke away from the manifold right as i crossed into germany during a stop-and-go traffic jam. I blame the vibrations and jolts. Got it fixed there with a clamp-down tube thing i don't know the name of, but that so far is holding just dandy. I also replaced the muffler mounts far in back, but that didnt have all too much effect.

Some time ago i ordered a pair of Vibratechnics Fast Road engine mounts (which are really the only new mounts for sale anywhere for the 2.0) for a rather obscene sum of money, to later find out that these absolutely SUCK vibration wise and are simply way too stiff.
I know of one website selling an OEM (or what looks like it) right-hand engine mount (the one with the spring that often breaks) but for an even more obscene price.

My questions now: has anyone here tried to somehow fit the engine mounts of a 944 or 924S for the 2.0 engine?
Has anyone bothered with also replacing the transaxle mounts? If so, can you still buy them from somewhere?
Has anyone tried modifying the Vibra Technics mounts (as you can actually take them apart fairly easily and ideally swap out the rubber part for something softer and thicker)
Should i just replace the spring in the right hand mount which is probably broken and have that fix most issues?

This entire thing is kind of driving me up the wall
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924RACR  



Joined: 29 Jul 2001
Posts: 9060
Location: Royal Oak, MI, USA

PostPosted: Sat Jan 24, 2026 1:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Interesting idea of retrofitting the 2.5L mounts... I'd be down to try if I could get my hands on a pair.

On the other end of the spectrum, this would seem a perfect topic to harass Porsche with, to get new ones made through the Porsche Classic program...
https://forms.porsche.com/en/classic-notesonavailability/

RH mount number is 477 199 303
LH mount number is 477 199 301 for NA, 301 A for Turbo/GT
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DemosT  



Joined: 26 Jun 2025
Posts: 17
Location: Italy

PostPosted: Sat Jan 24, 2026 2:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

924RACR wrote:
Interesting idea of retrofitting the 2.5L mounts... I'd be down to try if I could get my hands on a pair.

On the other end of the spectrum, this would seem a perfect topic to harass Porsche with, to get new ones made through the Porsche Classic program...
https://forms.porsche.com/en/classic-notesonavailability/

RH mount number is 477 199 303
LH mount number is 477 199 301 for NA, 301 A for Turbo/GT


Oh, neat!
Just submitted em.

Also yeah, from what i have seen the 2.5L mounts are much more available and from what it looks like, they more or less look similar from what that's worth.
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Harm  



Joined: 02 Apr 2009
Posts: 1376
Location: Holland

PostPosted: Sun Jan 25, 2026 7:23 am    Post subject: Re: Engine and Transaxle mounts Reply with quote

DemosT wrote:
This entire thing is kind of driving me up the wall


Hello Italy & RoW

The engine mounts are still available through websites like Rosepassion and others.
Paying over €150 for one engine mount that matches factory quality should last another 20+ years and doesn't sound like a steal to me? Of course replacing them both doubles your investment.

But, I haven't bought these new ones. During the zero’s I saved a few sets that looked descent.
I did buy the spring, after I checked the rubber part was still ‘rubbery’ ...doing its thing.
This new spring turned out to be 2mm taler then the old worn spring. Works fine for me.
You’ll find springs for sale online for less then €50

HTH
Kind regards,
Harm.
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safe  



Joined: 18 Mar 2017
Posts: 697
Location: Sweden

PostPosted: Tue Jan 27, 2026 1:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I replaced the broken spring in mine and that made a world of difference.
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Project-924-1979  



Joined: 26 Feb 2025
Posts: 47
Location: Netherlands

PostPosted: Tue Jan 27, 2026 1:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hybridflex engine mounts. Good price and as far as I've heard good quality. You can choose the stiffness yourself, just send them an email.

https://hybridflex.rs/kontakt/
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DemosT  



Joined: 26 Jun 2025
Posts: 17
Location: Italy

PostPosted: Tue Jan 27, 2026 2:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

safe wrote:
I replaced the broken spring in mine and that made a world of difference.


Interesting. I saw the spring priced at some honestly weird prices for a spring, but certainly cheaper than replacing both engine mounts entirely.

How much of a difference?
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Project-924-1979  



Joined: 26 Feb 2025
Posts: 47
Location: Netherlands

PostPosted: Tue Jan 27, 2026 2:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I remember €80 per enginemount. You just get the rubber and need to reuse the steel bracket.
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Restoring a late 1979 Porsche 924. This is my first car and my first attempt at restoring a car.
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safe  



Joined: 18 Mar 2017
Posts: 697
Location: Sweden

PostPosted: Tue Jan 27, 2026 2:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

DemosT wrote:
safe wrote:
I replaced the broken spring in mine and that made a world of difference.


Interesting. I saw the spring priced at some honestly weird prices for a spring, but certainly cheaper than replacing both engine mounts entirely.

How much of a difference?


A lot less movement of the engine and the rattles in the gear lever disappeared, but I don't have a stock gear linkage so I might have had more rattles than normal.
Without the spring the rubber that's there aren't doing much...

Yes, I paid like €50 for the spring, but a custom made spring in low volumes is going to be expensive.
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/Magnus, Stockholm Sweden
=======================
Porsche 924 -79 NA, EFI and Turbo.
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Porsche 911 -69, 3.6, Coupe
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pierro  



Joined: 15 Nov 2016
Posts: 16
Location: France

PostPosted: Sat Feb 28, 2026 2:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'am about to replace the vibratic ones by the originals from Porsche and looking for a "how to" tor replace them without removing the complete engine.
Is there a little procedure to replace, i've seen that the left side is not to bad to access, but he rightside where the exhaust downpipe is obstructing the acces is making it difficult.
Hopefully someone is having this done before and able to help me out.
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924RACR  



Joined: 29 Jul 2001
Posts: 9060
Location: Royal Oak, MI, USA

PostPosted: Sat Feb 28, 2026 4:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

So with long enough extensions, reaching the nuts on the top and bottom is entirely do-able... for either side... at least from my experience/memory. Loosen both sides at the same time, with a floor jack under the oil pan, and you should be able to lower the motor enough to slip both sides out...
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Raize  



Joined: 18 Sep 2013
Posts: 444
Location: Scotland

PostPosted: Sat Feb 28, 2026 5:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

924RACR wrote:
So with long enough extensions, reaching the nuts on the top and bottom is entirely do-able... for either side... at least from my experience/memory. Loosen both sides at the same time, with a floor jack under the oil pan, and you should be able to lower the motor enough to slip both sides out...


Always feels crazy that the entire engine hangs off a pair of M12 bolts and nothing else.

Anyway I think you need to drop the crossmember too to get enough space to slide the mounts in and out because of the studs.
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DemosT  



Joined: 26 Jun 2025
Posts: 17
Location: Italy

PostPosted: Sun Mar 01, 2026 1:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Managed to do it.
Bought two OEM-replica mounts made by Hamburg Technic and managed to do the job over about three days.

Worst part was taking the starter heat shield off and breaking the top bolt from the passenger side (hot side) mount's arm.

As expected the passenger side mount's spring was completely done for.

No noticeable improvements on vibrations, noise or general ride quality whatsoever.
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Raize  



Joined: 18 Sep 2013
Posts: 444
Location: Scotland

PostPosted: Sun Mar 01, 2026 2:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Unfortunate result.

This reminds me, I had a similar issue once. It turned out that the internal perforated tube of the final silencer had broken its welds / corroded and become detached at one end so while there was no external obvious problem, it was making very annoying noises like you describe. This was really hard to diagnose tbh. I'm not saying this is what the problem is but just that it can be very random things to cause such noises and vibrations.

I'd recommend you get the car on lift or over a pit then just get someone to rev it in neutral at the problem rev ranges and push and pull on stuff (with a glove) until you find what stops the noises.
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