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924 Engine Teardown Parts Advice

 
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Raize  



Joined: 18 Sep 2013
Posts: 375
Location: Scotland

PostPosted: Fri Aug 29, 2025 9:55 pm    Post subject: 924 Engine Teardown Parts Advice Reply with quote

Continuing to try and get rid of the parts stash in the interest of having money to get the 924 actually on the road again.

I have a complete 924 engine I'm going to strip down and sell as parts. It's just the normal 125hp 2.0 euro engine, no upgrade parts. The cylinders are scored, ovalised and oversized to the pistons which is why the engine got replaced and obviously in that condition it's worthless as a complete engine.

I used to think I might rebuild it one day with lightened balanced internals and all that but realistically it's not ever going to happen now. I made a list of parts that I can think of which will come out of it:

Engine Block & Bearing Caps
Crankshaft
Crankshaft Bearings
Oil Pump
Oil Pickup
Con Rods
Pistons & Rings
Camshaft Pulley
Cylinder Head & Bearing Caps (Stay together)
Camshaft
Intake Valves
Exhaust Valves
Intake Valve Springs
Exhaust Valve Springs
Cam Followers & Adjuster Screws
Cam Cover
Oil Cap
Sump

I suspect the engine block itself will become garden furniture because it's too heavy to ship, needs re-work, and nobody will come to get it where I live. Would the main bearing caps have any value if separated from the engine (like, could they be line-bored again to match another block) or are they basically junk too?

I would also like to know how I can add value (or assign scrap) by taking measurements on these parts, as one example I could measure valve stem wear with micrometer.

Would it make more sense for con rods to stay with their pistons, with the crank shaft, or does it not really matter overall?

I've stupidly mixed up the cam buckets already, are they now junk or would some people still consider using them?

If anyone has any ideas or suggestions I'd appreciate them.
Apologies if this post offends anyone.
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Cedric  



Joined: 27 Aug 2004
Posts: 2752
Location: Sweden

PostPosted: Fri Aug 29, 2025 11:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have used cam buckets for years that came from a different engine. If they are in good condition they could absolutely be used, might not be the most optimum way, but most of these cars arent pushing that many km per year anyway.
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Karlio  



Joined: 17 Nov 2019
Posts: 100
Location: UK

PostPosted: Sat Aug 30, 2025 6:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Realistically the whole engine is worth £100-250
If you split it the head is worth £75-150 complete, pointless measuring stuff to tell people just how wornout it is, the important bit is that it comes with the cam caps
If the crankshaft is not bent and within spec expect £200
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Raize  



Joined: 18 Sep 2013
Posts: 375
Location: Scotland

PostPosted: Sat Aug 30, 2025 6:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cedric wrote:
I have used cam buckets for years that came from a different engine. If they are in good condition they could absolutely be used, might not be the most optimum way, but most of these cars arent pushing that many km per year anyway.


Good to know. I mix and matched the best ones out of the 16 I had for my current engine and it's been fine for tens of thousands of miles, for what it's worth. I figured obvious wear was probably worse than shiny but not matched. Personally I'd prefer to use the solid/shimmed lifters that are available if I was building an engine anyway.

Karlio wrote:
Realistically the whole engine is worth £100-250


Would have been easier to sell it as an engine, but nobody will drive to the northmost end of Scotland for it.

Karlio wrote:

If you split it the head is worth £75-150 complete, pointless measuring stuff to tell people just how wornout it is, the important bit is that it comes with the cam caps
If the crankshaft is not bent and within spec expect £200


I guess I'll see if the head is light enough on its own to be sent by a courier. Is there really no value in individual valves, springs, etc? I thought these were all NLA.

Good point about the crank, will check runout with dial gauge once it's exposed and the central bearing caps are off.
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Joined: 18 Sep 2013
Posts: 375
Location: Scotland

PostPosted: Sun Aug 31, 2025 3:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

https://imgur.com/a/JunpVT4

These are all the things I found that didn’t look right. Thoughts?

Looks like the pilot bearing end of the crank got something dropped on it. Should have left the flywheel on this engine.
Main bearing 1 had some grooves.
Main bearing 3 had an orange band.
Crankshaft in general is rusty.
All cylinders look rusty.
One camshaft lobe is very worn.
Valves on cylinder 1 look rusty instead of sooty.
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Coco_Lev  



Joined: 04 May 2020
Posts: 98
Location: France

PostPosted: Wed Sep 03, 2025 6:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hello,

I have made new valves, tappets for NA engines.
Check my website [url]classic-line.eu[/url]
I can also supply other parts on request.

Corentin
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Raize  



Joined: 18 Sep 2013
Posts: 375
Location: Scotland

PostPosted: Fri Sep 05, 2025 9:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Coco_Lev wrote:
Hello,

I have made new valves, tappets for NA engines.
Check my website [url]classic-line.eu[/url]
I can also supply other parts on request.

Corentin


Well that certainly sets a price ceiling on used valves/tappets.

I will just disassemble the head because it is full of crap anyway from the ports not being covered during storage and nobody could use it as it is without stripdown and cleaning.
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