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Derusting solution

 
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safe  



Joined: 18 Mar 2017
Posts: 687
Location: Sweden

PostPosted: Thu Feb 27, 2025 7:01 am    Post subject: Derusting solution Reply with quote

I'm not a big fan of manual labor for removing rust, so if possible I choose an easier path...

My 931 has had a lot of rust that I've fixed, not as much as the Rat rod...

The left fender was to much work so I got a "new" one. The right has some low down, but its a bit crusty on the inside.

So I mixed up my new favorite rust eater and dipped the fender in.

This is after one day, It was a bit old and not enough. So I made some more.


Here is after 3 days and scrubbing away the residue. There is a clear line where the level was.




The solution is really mild on the steel, but takes a few days to remove the rust..
Its Citric acid with Sodium carbonate so its not as acidic as straight citric acid. But it doesn't work on the acid-principle, it works the same as Evaporust, the word escapes me right now.... Edit: chelation https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chelation
But its really cheep so you can whip up 100 liters (26 gallons) for ~$100 .

This is going to be metric....
10 liters of water
1 kg of citric acid
300g of sodium carbonate
+ a little dish soap, not sure why but I guess for surface tension.
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/Magnus, Stockholm Sweden
=======================
Porsche 924 -79 NA, EFI and Turbo.
Porsche 931 -79
Porsche 911 -77, 3.2 Targa
Porsche 911 -69, 3.6, Coupe


Last edited by safe on Thu Feb 27, 2025 9:58 pm; edited 1 time in total
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morghen  



Joined: 21 Jan 2005
Posts: 9082
Location: Romania

PostPosted: Thu Feb 27, 2025 7:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Great, thanks for sharing.
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fiskolja  



Joined: 08 Aug 2024
Posts: 19
Location: Malmö, Sweden

PostPosted: Thu Feb 27, 2025 7:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Perfect timing!
Have been looking at doing this for a while and had previously decided to try it this evening, although on some smaller parts but the principle should be the same.
Also been looking at setting up an electrolysis solution but will try just citric acid and sodium carbonate before I get my hands on some sacrificial anode.

Where did you buy the pulver? Have been looking at Kryddhusets citronsyra and bikarbonat från ÖoB
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safe  



Joined: 18 Mar 2017
Posts: 687
Location: Sweden

PostPosted: Thu Feb 27, 2025 8:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

fiskolja wrote:
Perfect timing!
Have been looking at doing this for a while and had previously decided to try it this evening, although on some smaller parts but the principle should be the same.
Also been looking at setting up an electrolysis solution but will try just citric acid and sodium carbonate before I get my hands on some sacrificial anode.

Where did you buy the pulver? Have been looking at Kryddhusets citronsyra and bikarbonat från ÖoB


Electrolysis, for rust removal, is a hassle.... and the downside is its only "line of sight" between the parts and anode. The anode can be anything iron. If you try it use a large tub and line it with anodes all around. The distance between the part and the anode plays a role in the effectiveness, so keep it constant.

Whatever method, method above, Electrolysis, or plain acid. There will always be a black residue from the dissolved iron oxide that will need to be removed by hand if you want to treat the parts after with paint or whatever.
It comes off with a stiff brush and water, so not a huge deal.

I'd like to say I "invented" this, but it isn't so. I found it on Youtube by an Italian Gun restorer, Backyard...something". He wanted to find something that was as effective as Evaporust, but cheaper. And this is a lot cheaper and according to his test, more effective and over a longer time.


In Swedish about where I bought it and for how much:
Jag köpte kemikalierna på cdon (förra året):

Säljs och levereras av AlltPrima

2 Citronsyra 5 kg hink 429 kr
1 Natriumkarbonat 3 KG‌ 299 kr

Total 1157 kr

Bikarbonat fungerar också men du måste ha mer, kommer inte ihåg hur mycket.
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/Magnus, Stockholm Sweden
=======================
Porsche 924 -79 NA, EFI and Turbo.
Porsche 931 -79
Porsche 911 -77, 3.2 Targa
Porsche 911 -69, 3.6, Coupe
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fiskolja  



Joined: 08 Aug 2024
Posts: 19
Location: Malmö, Sweden

PostPosted: Thu Feb 27, 2025 8:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

safe wrote:
fiskolja wrote:
Perfect timing!
Have been looking at doing this for a while and had previously decided to try it this evening, although on some smaller parts but the principle should be the same.
Also been looking at setting up an electrolysis solution but will try just citric acid and sodium carbonate before I get my hands on some sacrificial anode.

Where did you buy the pulver? Have been looking at Kryddhusets citronsyra and bikarbonat från ÖoB


Electrolysis, for rust removal, is a hassle.... and the downside is its only "line of sight" between the parts and anode. The anode can be anything iron. If you try it use a large tub and line it with anodes all around. The distance between the part and the anode plays a role in the effectiveness, so keep it constant.

Whatever method, method above, Electrolysis, or plain acid. There will always be a black residue from the dissolved iron oxide that will need to be removed by hand if you want to treat the parts after with paint or whatever.
It comes off with a stiff brush and water, so not a huge deal.

I'd like to say I "invented" this, but it isn't so. I found it on Youtube by an Italian Gun restorer, Backyard...something". He wanted to find something that was as effective as Evaporust, but cheaper. And this is a lot cheaper and according to his test, more effective and over a longer time.


In Swedish about where I bought it and for how much:
Jag köpte kemikalierna på cdon (förra året):

Säljs och levereras av AlltPrima

2 Citronsyra 5 kg hink 429 kr
1 Natriumkarbonat 3 KG‌ 299 kr

Total 1157 kr

Bikarbonat fungerar också men du måste ha mer, kommer inte ihåg hur mycket.



Matnyttigt, tack!
Will give bikarbonat a try just since i can get my hands on that today.
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safe  



Joined: 18 Mar 2017
Posts: 687
Location: Sweden

PostPosted: Thu Feb 27, 2025 8:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The carbonate is only there to neutralize the aciidity in the citric acid. It will probably work better without it, just a bit harsher on the good metal.
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/Magnus, Stockholm Sweden
=======================
Porsche 924 -79 NA, EFI and Turbo.
Porsche 931 -79
Porsche 911 -77, 3.2 Targa
Porsche 911 -69, 3.6, Coupe
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safe  



Joined: 18 Mar 2017
Posts: 687
Location: Sweden

PostPosted: Thu Feb 27, 2025 9:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Found my youtube source:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fVYZmeReKKY

Also found an independent test:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DBzxiuGp5LA


You will need twice as much baking soda. And be careful when you add it.
_________________
/Magnus, Stockholm Sweden
=======================
Porsche 924 -79 NA, EFI and Turbo.
Porsche 931 -79
Porsche 911 -77, 3.2 Targa
Porsche 911 -69, 3.6, Coupe
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fiskolja  



Joined: 08 Aug 2024
Posts: 19
Location: Malmö, Sweden

PostPosted: Thu Feb 27, 2025 10:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, I'll have good marginal in the container, good ventilation and a gas mask to not take any risks

Also found one guy that turned the solution in to a gel, practical for bigger stuff still assembled to the car:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gi4DqtpYAOI[/url]
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Raize  



Joined: 18 Sep 2013
Posts: 403
Location: Scotland

PostPosted: Fri Feb 28, 2025 7:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I wish there was a chemical way to remove the residue or at least make it overpaintable.

I've tried with phosphoric acid and ascorbic acid, basically the same result from both acids.

I tried electrolysis as well using stainless steel plates as anodes which was useful because they didn't corrode away like regular steel plates would. But it was just as annoying to remove the residue and did suffer from the "line of sight" issue.
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safe  



Joined: 18 Mar 2017
Posts: 687
Location: Sweden

PostPosted: Fri Feb 28, 2025 7:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The "dirt" has to go somewhere. A lot of it gets suspended in the solution.
I've had the idea of filtering the solution continuously to see if that helps, I think it would do, but haven't tried it.

The easiest is to just degrease the parts and hand them of to someone for media blasting and powder coat.... That assumes that the parts are suitable for media blasting.

I've media blasted a lot of stuff my self in a really good cabinet with industrial compressor, but I hate it, a lot more work than you would think.
In a production facility they hang the parts on a rack and it goes thru a machine that does the blasting. But it costs a lot more if you are paying full price.

I've done some DIY zink plating too, pretty fun, but its also a lot of set up and trial and error fine tuning the process.
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=======================
Porsche 924 -79 NA, EFI and Turbo.
Porsche 931 -79
Porsche 911 -77, 3.2 Targa
Porsche 911 -69, 3.6, Coupe
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