924Board.org

[jacobroufa]

[jacobroufa]

This weekend found a fuel leak at the lowest part of the tank. Moved the car and saw a spot where I had never seen one previously... sure enough, fuel. Look down and after a minute saw a drip... Well that'll be a fun job. Add it to the list, along with replacing one of the cooling fans and freshening up the front control arms.

I'm still on the fence about this EV swap. I really love this car, as much of a dog as it is, and I've got the board in my head like "you know it's so clean you should just find another.." so maybe this winter I will look for a cheapo S builder.

Thinking also about taking it to Bart's shop out in the suburbs, as he has a nice upgrade in the way of an actual refurb on the motor mounts instead of those vibra-technics numbers which I understand rattle fillings.
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1980 Porsche 931
1981 Porsche 924 Weissach

[Goldwolf]

I'm interested in the motor mounts.
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1981 Weissach Edition #179

[Feeler]

[jacobroufa]

[Feeler]

[jacobroufa]

[slowcarfast]

Woot! Drive it as much as possible!
Had mine just about 14 months now, the last 10 or so it was drive-able. And now after a timing belt service I feel OK pushing it. Finally got it out of the city and on some great twisties the last couple of months. Best stress-buster I've found (except for maybe the Midget, top down, on a cool sunny day).
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1981 924 Weissach Ed #187
1971 MG Midget

[jacobroufa]

Awhile back replaced those sunvisor clips.. Speedo gear I'm being lazy about; I hate disassembling that thing.

I should still replace that passenger radiator fan.. I saw a thread the other day about someone replacing theirs -- good to know those parts are still around. The car does not overheat though and the only downside is the A/C doesn't seem to want to kick on without that fan. Not a huge deal.

I reinstalled the stock wheel as well, but not with the extended hub. I need to drill out the rivets on the original hub, and I just have not felt up to the task for whatever reason. Soon.. The stock wheel is so nice though with its restitch. If anyone in the Chicago area needs upholstery work, I can't say enough good things about Stitch Girl.

Also a couple months ago I replaced the hatch pin seats and did the tail light mod from Only944. My hatch no longer rattles and I have brighter tails.. Little touch ups here and there are nice.

Today I replaced the sunroof seal and shifter, also with Only944 parts. I've been really impressed with this shop. Kyle, the proprietor, is great to deal with, and the quality of the parts he stocks is all top notch.

The sunroof seal I only dry fitted today -- I can't seem to find my clear silicone and I don't want to take it off now that it's on there. I will get around to that in the next couple days. It's a very nice quality seal, both parts. The seal that sits on the actual removable roof piece is a big improvement from the original one on the 924. It is much more substantial.

The shifter made a night and day difference to the shifting feel. The peg on my old one that connected to the shift rod was so worn out.. There's almost no play at all in it now and it's tight but not stiff thanks to the thin washer bushings provided in the kit. I have the short shifter and shift linkage from them as well; just have not installed it that yet. I'll be curious to see how that changes the feel also.

I would definitely recommend this upgrade/replacement to anyone who has a shifter with any amount of movement in it side to side.

Mostly I have just been driving it, a lot. Brakes are squeaky but adjusted fine in the rear and stop fine.. not sure what to do about that really. I could probably pull the pads off and regrease behind them where they sit against the caliper piston.. Have I mentioned feeling lazy lately though? HA!

Other than that, the car is how it is. I love this thing. Best way to destress; get behind the wheel of such an analog machine..
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1980 Porsche 931
1981 Porsche 924 Weissach

[Goldwolf]

I put the same sunroof seal on, didn't use any silicone. Still need to do the inner seal, but no leaks. It's a nice product.
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1981 Weissach Edition #179

[jacobroufa]

So a lot has happened since I last updated this thread...

9/24/21 was the last date the car drove until tonight. Both my cooling fans gave up the ghost on that day, if you can believe it.

Then a litany of things happened which I won't bore you all with, but basically I moved in December and FINALLY have some time to work on the thing.

I have the supercharger V2 kit here, so I've been doing some prep work for that..

So cooling fans got replaced with the ones from the 931. I have a 944 radiator and started to make brackets to fit that but basically decided to keep the stock radiator for now and do the 944 conversion on the 931. It's a bigger project car anyhow with the transmission and all, so no harm in making it wait slightly longer. I want to drive now and that's more important.



Pulled out the AC in preparation for the supercharger which fits in the same location as the compressor..



And after refilling coolant I took it out for a short drive tonight. Feels good to be behind the wheel.



So for supercharger prep I have cut the ears off the water pump bracket on the one end, and need to use the kit-provided sealant to secure the inlet and outlet to the charger body..



Here's a good bit of it mocked up.. I have to pull the blow off valve from the v1 kit throttle body charge pipe and put it into the mid pipe. Otherwise, it's just waiting on supercharger to be finished prepping, and some time to install..



That's all for now, good night from the new garage!


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1980 Porsche 931
1981 Porsche 924 Weissach

[morghen]

Wahey!
So proud to see another one being supercharged with our kit!

NOTE: dont glue the SC upper inlet to the lower inlet, that you must only do when the supercharger is on the car.
Follow the instructions shown in the "how to" video.

Before glue-ing the SC inlet, do an inspection on the charger, it should rotate smoothly without any grinding noises.
There should be some play axially, but none radially, also the rotors should be as scratch free as possible, but even if they are scratched..it wont matter too much.
Also, it has an oil bay in the front and one in the rear, you will need a special allen bit to open the oil bays and when you open them you should keep the charger at such an angle that the oil cant leak out.
The oil for these things is expensive and may not be very easy to come by, its not any oil, its a special oil.

Once you glue the SC inlet there is no access to the rear oil bay anymore and you'll need to remove the SC inlet to check and refill the rear bay.
The service intervals for the superchargers is very long so if the oil has ever been replaced on your supercharger then you will likely never service it again...but its worth a check before putting it into the car.
Once you open the oil bays (one at a time as you need to keep the charger up-right to avoid oil spilling out) stick something in it and asses the condition of the oil and the amount.
Then decide if you want to replace the oil or not, if the oil is completely non-transparent and black, its time to replace it, if the oil is red/burgundy and you can still see trough it, you can use it if there is enough in the bays.

The amount of oil and type of oil and position of drain/fill plugs are shown in this video starting with min 8.
The guy says to use some GM oil and i think thats fine, but i bought the one recommended by the Mini guys.

https://new.minimania.com/part/NME7250/Mini-Cooper-Supercharger-Oil-40-Fluid-Oz-Bottle-Gen1

https://youtu.be/FA9QIXtBGuM?t=480
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https://www.the924.com

[jacobroufa]

Thank you for the reminder not to glue the upper inlet until it is in the car! I will be sure to do this.

I will also definitely inspect the oil. I accidentally let some of it out already and while it's not dark and non-transparent it is also not bright red so I would feel better topping it off and having fresh oil. Thank you for the links to video and the correct oil for this!

After speaking with Ciprian it seems that the non-smog AC cars will not have an alternator offset issue! This is exciting because it means that they have one less thing to sort. However, the V1 pulley addition does not quite fit due to the crank pulley having the AC belt groove, so a V2 pulley will be required here if you are an AC-equipped car originally.

We have also discussed some of the vacuum system which is in the way of the installation -- there is the deceleration valve present on manual cars in the US, and the charcoal exhaust filter as well -- these things must be removed. We also talked about the dual advance present on US 1981+ models; there is only a single advance in Euro cars so this may create a slightly different routing situation or possibly to remove the retard (rear port) and only use advance (front port) vacuum.
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1980 Porsche 931
1981 Porsche 924 Weissach

[jacobroufa]

Ok, so I installed the supercharger this weekend. I am very nearly ready to drive!

Current status:


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Thank you Ciprian for sending a new crank pulley! Because the existing pulley was for accessories (alternator & water pump) and separate groove for AC, the adapted supercharger belt pulley would not fit inside and I needed a "V2 pulley" which replaces the old one.



Prior to anything else, I needed to refresh the oil in the supercharger. As mentioned, I let out some of the rear oil previously. When going to change it, I got nothing additional out of the rear (supposed to be 40mL) and only 100mL out of the front (supposed to be 145mL). This was very dark and nasty smelling. Would definitely recommend to anyone doing this modification to change the oil prior to installation!



To mount the supercharger outlet charge pipe I needed to file down some of the material of these locator tabs. Without doing so I did not have the clearance necessary to insert all the bolts to secure it.



Once filed, I was able to locate all the bolts properly. Applied sealant around the opening as instructed, and mounted the outlet pipe. At Ciprian's suggestion, I used thread locker on the bolt inside the pipe.





After the outlet was mounted, the inlet needed to be installed. This is just adhering with sealant on both sides of the flange, and to let it cure, I set it against a wall, so it was firmly attached with pressure against the opening. Once cured, this is not moving at all.



During removal, this tube which vents to the crankcase just is sitting in place. There is nowhere for it to go, and I will be installing a catch can at some point



Fuel return line was siphoning gasoline when I removed it. To stop this, I blew air into the line with the gas cap opened. But not before panicking and losing ~2 gallons. I am glad I had clean trays under the car to catch this!



Supercharger installed! Having this physically in place felt like a big deal. As mentioned with the videos, I had to leave all mounting bolts loose until everything was positioned correctly including the belt.



Having a conspicuous absence of vacuum lines and doo-dads here..



At several stages I had to mock things into their place to visualize completion and or test clearance/fitment. This was helpful to the process and to my motivation both.



Here we are seeing injector line clearance. I took tiny snips of the smallest vacuum line, sliced on one side, to use as a buffer on the injector lines where they are close to the intake charge pipe. I think there was 1-2mm of clearance at most with these lines, so this gave me some extra reassurance of not damaging either lines or intake tubing.







I had to remove the engine hook in order to provide clearance to install the bypass tubing.



Brake vacuum line becomes a simple bend, using one of the existing lines trimmed to fit better. One of the sides of the bent metal T on the large vacuum line is capped.



Bypass vacuum line routing goes through a series of Ts. From the big line that goes from manifold to the short side of AAV, there is a T that splits to a small line. From small line there are two Ts resulting in three branches total, going to: the rear of the distributor, bypass valve, blowoff valve.





The last line that should be left after removing emissions vacuum system is this fuel tank vent. I just capped mine..



So the last bit to attend to is the fuel distributor side of things.. Be sure to grab the cork gasket from your old airbox. Mine's a bit messed up, I will have to replace it soon.



Don't tighten the screws on the airbox too tight. They are going through plastic and you don't want to crack that flange on the printed airbox!

Relocating the sensor on the metal lines is not too difficult after cracking some of the banjo bolts. However, this frequency valve injector was frustrating to me. I ended up having to replace the plastic cohline tubing with a soft gas hose. Be sure to get something pressure rated/reinforced here!



The way I needed to maneuver it, I ended up kinking the plastic tubing..



In order to get it to fit I had to trim and move the bracket it was attached to, replace that soft hose, and gently reshape the hard metal line as well.



This bracket previously was oriented differently, I just had to leave it loose until all fuel line connections were made, then tighten it up where it fit best with the most clearance. It would not fit at all until I cut 3-4cm off the bottom where there was a plastic clip no longer used.



The only major modification I needed to make to the kit that Ciprian provided was to adjust this bracket to be shorter slightly. Nevermind the hammer marks -- I used a sledge and a vise to reshape this piece..



So there are 2cm from the inner of the bend to the edge of the tabs on this side, for anyone else needing to make this modification.



And you can see the effect it has on lowering the valve bracket position:



Final bracket shape and holes:



So one of the questions here is due to fuel distributor repositioning possibly the hood is in need of adjustment. For me, everything fits beautifully.



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After installation I turned the key and...

https://i.imgur.com/llm82K2.mp4

Boom it fires right up! Idle is very very low, I need to tune to compensate.

So I was working on that but was stalled by a coolant hose leak. Unfortunately it started leaking all over the belts and making a very nasty squealing noise.



Here is the culprit. As I was doing the installation based upon the videos, Ciprian recommended adjusting this lower hose clamp to avoid it interfering with the intake charge tubing.. When I did this, it uncovered a minor slice. I told myself "ahh it'll be fiiiine" but as soon as the thermostat opened up and pressurized it, I got stopped by the inevitable..



So this is where I am at. I have this hose on order as well as a new airbox cork gasket. Next step will be once the cooling hose is replaced I will begin to tune, adjusting air/fuel mix, idle speed, and ignition advance. I am very nearly there, very very pleased with the kit over all and my progress, and so excited to take this thing for a drive.
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1980 Porsche 931
1981 Porsche 924 Weissach

[morghen]

Great job so far!

Now i can see that the north American air metering unit has a much smaller diameter compared to the other regions, even California models have larger ones, and certainly the European version as well.
Is this the 95hp engine ?
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https://www.the924.com