924Board.org

[kylekev]

Alright, so after a few weeks of working with the electrical, dizzy, etc. I got my 78 924 up and running. Been playing with the timing and fuel hopping to get the engine running better then what I've had it and had success but my idle just drops off when I turn the coil "clockwise" to get in the ball park of the timing marks.

If the timing is advanced (aka coil turned reverse clockwise) then I can get my rpm up and engine runs pretty well, but doesn't start the best.

When timing is set right the car starts up every time cold or warm. When cold tho it runs really rough and it needs a minute to warm up and then I can putts along the road.

Note:
EMS is taken off
Got fuel & spark (checked both)
Vacuum seems well and i'm pretty sure i got no leaks anywhere

For headlights...
They just don't turn on. They flip up everytime, all the other lights turn on, and I checked all the fuses and they seem good (even moved em all).

Weared thing, when i went to mess with the headlight relay under dash, the fuse seemed hot. Not broken but hot.

[ideola]

You need to do a CIS system test to identify the cold start problem. Sounds like it could be an issue with the WUR, maybe on the verge of failing. But it could also be the cold start valve, thermo-time switch, or the wiring between them.

As for the headlight issue, if you are certain all the fuses and relays are functioning correctly, and that the bulbs themselves are not burned out, then it could be the switch, the fuse block, the wiring, or the harnesses at the headlight. Troubleshooting 101: start in the middle, like this:

• The fuse block. Check it for proper voltage, and check the pins on the block itself. This requires pulling it down and removing all of the big connectors on the back. If memory serves, it is the white multi-pin connector that carries current to the lights.
• If the fuse block checks out, then check the wiring from the switch to the block.
• If that checks out, then check the wiring from the block to the headlight.
• If that checks out, check the switch (unlikely if test #2 passes).

_________________
erstwhile owner of just about every 924 variant ever made

[kylekev]

WUR is off as stated above. So next question, how do you get those screens out? I searched on the website and it seems there are 5 screens in the WUR. When I look inside of the WUR both the ports for the fuel lines had trash built up inside on the screens. I think I should take em out and replace them.

Second..
checked fuel plugs and they spray nicely. Then checked cold start valve and I had no spray. I checked if it had fuel and it did with plenty of pressure.

How do you check thermo time switch and valve?

Lastly, would WUR have influence on the cold start valve?

Thanks ideala, big help!
Haven't worked with headlights yet

[kylekev]

This morning i pulled my AAV off and checked if it was working properly. I checked the AAV by running two wires from the negative + positive on my battery to the AAV valve and nothing happened:(

Questions...
Did I check the AAV properly?
Is there away to rebuild it or should i just buy a new one?

Any advice is appreciated, and thanks again all

[kylekev]

Kept on working with AAV. I read online that the AAV is all about resistance and closes after 5 minutes or so (warm engine). I put the AAV in my freezer and the AAV didn't open too much/bearly open. I've been spraying brake cleaner inside of it to clean it up. I dont know if messing with the bolt on the outside will help at this point. I stuck a wire inside to pull that flap open and sprayed more cleaner. Then loosened the bolt up and back into the freezer to try that again.

One thing i noticed was the brake cleaner was leaking out from the sides of the AAV where I assume is a o ring like seal. I know that isnt suppose to happen and its giving me a vacuum leak. So i know that it is needing rebuilt if at all possible.

I'll let ya know in a couple hours how it turned out.

Please any help is well, HELPFUL!!!
Thanks everyone

[kylekev]

So once again the AAV didn't open after sitting in the freezer for 2 hours.

My next idea is to drill out the 4 bolts and open that baby up. Hopefully the problem will standout once I open it up. Pictures soon.

Any help is appreciated and as you can tell i'm moving along with these problems pretty quickly.

Thanks:)

[kylekev]

Got the AAV apart and fixed up. It opens cold and closes when hot. Sure was a pain to get apart. I will do a write up on taking the AAV apart soon.

PLZ help me with the WUR! I just don't know how to get those screens out. Anything now can help me. It is all apart except where the fuel runs in. I think I will just take a screw driver at it but I'm still not sure.

[larchie]

I doubt that this is of much help but when I cleaned out a WUR about 10 or so years ago I think I remember that on your 924 model there are rivets rather than screws to get at the screen so it can't be removed to be cleaned. Probably this why Bosch says somewhere should not be rebuilt. I remember using carb cleaner by soaking and drying with air from a can (not an air hose). I think I remember reading somewhere not to use brake cleaner because of its accidental effect on gasket and rubber parts but I noticed on the Web than other persons do so. It might make sense to try an automotive ultrasonic cleaner if you have access to one.

If you can't get it cleaned, one option might be to get a rebuilt one -- available under $90 with core charge. But I figure that if auto parts stores can rebuild it, it's rebuildable somehow.

[fiat22turbo]