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hydraulic clutch piston

 
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leadfoot  



Joined: 11 Dec 2002
Posts: 2222
Location: gOLD cOAST Australia

PostPosted: Thu May 20, 2010 6:09 pm    Post subject: hydraulic clutch piston Reply with quote

I noticed that the rubber around the inside bore, surrounding the pin, is starting to pull away around the edge.
This is the clutch fork actuator that bolts into the bellhousing.
Is this a potential problem or does the rubber just provide a water/fluid seal?? What's the best way to repair this if posible.
Cheers
Stu
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1981 ROW 924 Turbo -
carbon fiber GT mish mash
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Smoothie  



Joined: 01 Jan 2003
Posts: 8032
Location: DE (the one near MD, PA, NJ)

PostPosted: Thu May 20, 2010 10:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is the clutch slave cylinder obviously. Repair parts for it are available in a rebuild kit. The accordian, or bellows shaped rubber that's visible on the outside normally tears before the other more important internal hydraulic seal wears down and fails. The "accordian" seal is just a water/dust protector. New. they already have a small hole punched in them for air in-out.
I usually keep a spare rebuilt slave cyl and/or new rebuild kit on a shelf ready to go in, and swap/rebuild them roughly every 2 years..
I've never removed the slave just to replace that outer dust/water seal. The inner hydraulic seal will let you know it's time for a change as the pedal begins to drop, and requires pumping to get it back. As it worsens, you'll find the pedal on the floor when you get in in the morning. This worsens further in colder weather..
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'82 924T, US version, dark green metallic, 5 speed Audi 016G gearbox
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Joes924Racer  



Joined: 03 Nov 2002
Posts: 11964
Location: Oregon, Denver Colorado native!

PostPosted: Fri May 21, 2010 1:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Now all the crud you didnt want in there has a way 2 get
there, Should be fixed you know.
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Slam  



Joined: 07 Jan 2005
Posts: 1689
Location: Wainwright, Alberta, Canada

PostPosted: Fri May 21, 2010 2:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Smoothie, I usually keep a spare around for my 944 as well, as I was changing them at regular intervals. Instead, now I change the brake fluid - it eats at the seals if left more more than 2 years.
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931blackshirt  



Joined: 14 May 2010
Posts: 2
Location: waukesha,wi

PostPosted: Tue Jul 06, 2010 11:19 am    Post subject: Slave cylinder fit to rebuild? Reply with quote

Gentlemen,
I have a failed slave cylinder to rebuild. The push rod length underneath the rubber cover has corroded, is rough, and is reduced in diameter. The piston stops 1/8 inch short of the cylinder end and won't travel farther. Does the rebuild kit include a new push rod and is there a trick to get the piston out?

Thank you.
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RC  



Joined: 25 Mar 2007
Posts: 2637
Location: Australia

PostPosted: Tue Jul 06, 2010 12:52 pm    Post subject: Re: Slave cylinder fit to rebuild? Reply with quote

931blackshirt wrote:
Does the rebuild kit include a new push rod and is there a trick to get the piston out?

No
Compressed air
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Smoothie  



Joined: 01 Jan 2003
Posts: 8032
Location: DE (the one near MD, PA, NJ)

PostPosted: Tue Jul 06, 2010 2:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Corroded push rod wouldn't be unusual. I doubt it's bad enough to cause problems, but you'll have to judge it for yourself, or post pics..
Mine's been rebuilt several times, and the same olde rust pitted rod goes back in every time - no problems with it..


I usually use these "external retaining ring pliers" to remove the piston -

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'82 924T, US version, dark green metallic, 5 speed Audi 016G gearbox
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931Owner  



Joined: 14 Feb 2009
Posts: 352
Location: Chicago NW Suburbs

PostPosted: Tue Jul 06, 2010 2:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Say... what size is the bleeder valve?
I broke mine trying to undo it on the '82 engine and it is so rusted on the '80 engine that I'm not even going to try to take it out.
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Smoothie  



Joined: 01 Jan 2003
Posts: 8032
Location: DE (the one near MD, PA, NJ)

PostPosted: Tue Jul 06, 2010 10:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

931Owner wrote:
Say... what size is the bleeder valve?

From vague recollection, something in the 6mm-7mm range. -Sorry, not much help..
-But it doesn't matter.. I stopped using those things to bleed it years ago. These days I bench bleed the slave, reinstall it (reconnecting the fluid line before bolting the cylinder in, then bolting it in, then final-tightening the fluid line). -Then finish up by pumping the pedal quickly by hand until it builds pressure and returns (generally about 60-70 quick pumps).
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'82 924T, US version, dark green metallic, 5 speed Audi 016G gearbox
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