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931 S2 fuel system pressure reading and low voltage at pump

 
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Maybe924  



Joined: 14 Aug 2007
Posts: 412
Location: New London, CT

PostPosted: Tue Nov 17, 2009 7:23 am    Post subject: 931 S2 fuel system pressure reading and low voltage at pump Reply with quote

Hello all,
While working to solve a rich running condition, misfiring and the unfortunate side effect of a glowing exhaust I came upon a couple of anomalies.

Testing my pressure numbers I found a system pressure of 5.4 bar or about 79psi which is under spec. My warm control pressure was 3.5bar

Also, while checking my voltage to the fuel pumps I found 10 volts at the pump. If I remove the wires from the pump and test voltage I get a solid 12 volts. I assume this is not normal... does this indicate a fuel pump is kaput?

And lastly, if this fuel pump is in fact a goner what could be burning up my pumps??? I've gone through 3 in the past 2 years.
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bnoon  



Joined: 12 Oct 2009
Posts: 607
Location: West Des Moines, IA USA

PostPosted: Tue Nov 17, 2009 8:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

A poor power and/or ground connection could cause the amperage to spike, causing blown pumps and low voltage at the pump. Without proper voltage to the pump, pressure could be low... I would clean all connections at the fuel pump relay, power source, and ground, or even run new wires if the condition of the wires is bad enough.

What does voltage at the battery read when the car is running with the fuel pumps running/and not? How about at the power terminal for the fuel pump relay running/and not? The power loss is either between the battery and the fuse block, or the fuse block and the pumps.
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Maybe924  



Joined: 14 Aug 2007
Posts: 412
Location: New London, CT

PostPosted: Tue Nov 17, 2009 8:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've cleaned the grounds and run new wire from the fuse board to the pump. I do get 12 volts on the wires without the pump hooked up. However when I check voltage across the pump terminals when its hooked up its only 10 volts.

The battery is good and the alternator is doing its job showing 13.5 volts running and I get 12 volts at the fuse when the pump is hooked up also.
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Maybe924  



Joined: 14 Aug 2007
Posts: 412
Location: New London, CT

PostPosted: Tue Nov 17, 2009 8:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Almost forgot. I also bypassed everything and hooked up directly to the battery and still only get the 10 volts hooked up to the pump, testing across the terminals.
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ideola  



Joined: 01 Oct 2004
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Location: Spring Lake MI

PostPosted: Tue Nov 17, 2009 9:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nevermind. I need to read all of the replies before posting
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Maybe924  



Joined: 14 Aug 2007
Posts: 412
Location: New London, CT

PostPosted: Tue Nov 17, 2009 10:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I guess I'll try running directly off batt again and ground it straight back to the negative terminal. Although I tested resistance on the fuel pump ground and it check out.

If the fuel pump still drops in voltage then I guess its got to be the pump itself.
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Maybe924  



Joined: 14 Aug 2007
Posts: 412
Location: New London, CT

PostPosted: Tue Nov 17, 2009 10:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm gonna proceed with this theory in mind.

I have too much resistance somewhere in the circuit from the battery to the fuel pump.

This is burning out my pumps prematurely.

Once burnt the pump is only drawing 10 volts.

So, I'll order a new pump, check how many amps its drawing after install, if its outta spec I'll then locate the path of resistance and replace.
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!tom  



Joined: 28 Aug 2006
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Location: Victoria, BC Canada

PostPosted: Tue Nov 17, 2009 11:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Your theory doesn't make sense to me.

Current, voltage and resistance are related. Increase the resistance in the circuit, the voltage AND amperage go down at the motor.

Your 10 volts at the motor is due to voltage drop between your battery and your motor. There's no other explination. This could be caused by any number of poor connections, including the battery terminals themselves.

Running your pump at 10 volts is NOT burning it out. It will impede the performance of the pump, though.

What size wire are you using for your tests? You can expect almost a half-volt loss through 14 gauge wire from the front to the back of the car.

Again, as Smoothie often points out, devices don't draw volts, just like alternators don't push amps. Given an input voltage, a device draws a particular current. This current causes losses in things such as connections and wiring, which is seen as both heat and a voltage loss on the other side of the component you're looking at. You're seeing 10 volts at the pump at the same time as 13.5 volts at the battery because the 3.5 other volts are losses through the intermediate wiring. Good wiring should be around half a volt, so your other 3 volts are due to undersized wiring, or poor connections. There's no other possibility, worn pump or not.

A good test would be to measure the current draw of the pump.
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Maybe924  



Joined: 14 Aug 2007
Posts: 412
Location: New London, CT

PostPosted: Tue Nov 17, 2009 11:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'll get some heavier gauge wire, make certain the connections are good and test direct from battery again.
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Rich H  



Joined: 10 Jun 2007
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Location: Preston, Lancs, UK

PostPosted: Tue Nov 17, 2009 6:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

What he said, the pumps draw loads of current so voltage drop can be significant, especially if your connections are not 100% clean and the wire is thin. I imagine if the wire is thin it might gets a bit warm...

Remember if your battery is old it might be struggling to provide voltage but if it starts OK this is unlikely.
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Maybe924  



Joined: 14 Aug 2007
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Location: New London, CT

PostPosted: Wed Nov 18, 2009 9:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Of course you guys were right. I did a bunch of different tests today. I found the pump currently installed didn't flow enough and switched out to another one I had on the shelf. That pump managed to pump 800ml in 30secs. Both pumps were only receiving around 11volts when the car was running and as it warmed up the voltage dropped a bit more.

So I hooked up directly to battery power but left ground as is.... viola! I got 13 volts while the car was running.

So it looks like the ground is fine but the existing wiring providing power is shot. I'll have to investigate where the problem lies. I assume the fault could be in these spots.

1. Batt to relay board.
2. Bad solder on relay board.
3. Relay itself is ruled out since jumpering it changes nothing.
4. Wire from relay board to fuse board.
5. Solders at fuse board.
6. and lastly wire from fuse board to pump.

I can say this much... the jumper gets hot enough to burn my fingers, must be a lot of resistance somewhere. Wondering if this suggests that the resistance problem is ahead of the jumper?

Lastly, after running the pump directly off batt power my system pressure went from 5.3 bar to 5.7 bar.

Is it possible that this wiring problem is causing the rich running and misfiring?
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Smoothie  



Joined: 01 Jan 2003
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Location: DE (the one near MD, PA, NJ)

PostPosted: Thu Nov 19, 2009 2:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Maybe924 wrote:

I assume the fault could be in these spots.

1. Batt to relay board.
2. Bad solder on relay board.
3. Relay itself is ruled out since jumpering it changes nothing.
4. Wire from relay board to fuse board.
5. Solders at fuse board.
6. and lastly wire from fuse board to pump.

7. the fuse itself or the condition of its contact to the fuse holder.
(if it hasn't been checked/ruled-out already)

Maybe924 wrote:

Is it possible that this wiring problem is causing the rich running and misfiring?

I believe so - -if- lower system pressure causes the control pressure to be lowered, then the lower control pressure would allow more deflection of the air-metering plate, and the fuel metering rod would be raised more, etc. leading to a richer A:F mix.


[-But 51 psi is pretty close to OK for a warmed engine control pressure, so I'd guess it's not far off enough to cause a glowing exhaust. How's that wire that runs over the front-left wheel well? If not connected (and conducting) it'll be retarding spark by about 7-8 degrees.]
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tbramich  



Joined: 02 Dec 2009
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Location: charlotte nc USA

PostPosted: Mon Dec 07, 2009 1:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

if the motor is only running on 10v and was designed to run on 12v (which means 12-14v) then YES it can burn out quicker. i see it all the time at work. when the electric motors have wiring issues and get less voltage than required it causes the motor to get hot and therefore break down at a faster interval.
i'd say bad power or ground. check the resistance in your ground wire from the end to the relay.

!tom wrote:
Your theory doesn't make sense to me.

Current, voltage and resistance are related. Increase the resistance in
the circuit, the voltage AND amperage go down at the motor.
Your 10 volts at the motor is due to voltage drop between your battery and your motor. There's no other explination. This could be caused by any number of poor connections, including the battery terminals themselves.

Running your pump at 10 volts is NOT burning it out. It will impede the performance of the pump, though.

What size wire are you using for your tests? You can expect almost a half-volt loss through 14 gauge wire from the front to the back of the car.

Again, as Smoothie often points out, devices don't draw volts, just like alternators don't push amps. Given an input voltage, a device draws a particular current. This current causes losses in things such as connections and wiring, which is seen as both heat and a voltage loss on the other side of the component you're looking at. You're seeing 10 volts at the pump at the same time as 13.5 volts at the battery because the 3.5 other volts are losses through the intermediate wiring. Good wiring should be around half a volt, so your other 3 volts are due to undersized wiring, or poor connections. There's no other possibility, worn pump or not.

A good test would be to measure the current draw of the pump.
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Maybe924  



Joined: 14 Aug 2007
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 07, 2009 2:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Forgot to update.

I found the source of the problem and now get 12 volts at the pump while its running. It turn out to be from the fuse board to the pump. Fuel pressure reading are within spec now.
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stevekat  



Joined: 19 Jan 2008
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 08, 2009 5:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

What was the specific problem? Bad solder, crimp, corrosion?
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