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More go for very little money
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bruni  



Joined: 26 Jul 2008
Posts: 114
Location: South Africa

PostPosted: Sat Oct 18, 2008 10:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

KISS comes to mind, the idea was to free up a few extra HP when when you demand full power. If you are looking for fuel economy you might consider having an open circuit except when braking, coasting or stationary, however I,m not sure that on the average journey the alternator would operate long enough to charge the battery OK if you live or work at the top of a mountain pass
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ideola  



Joined: 01 Oct 2004
Posts: 15550
Location: Spring Lake MI

PostPosted: Sat Oct 18, 2008 10:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

On my track car, I'm planning to go with an axle-driven alt like in the factory D-Prods. May be somewhat problematic for stop-and-go driving, but a good strong battery and good cruising or track driving should be fine.
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bruni  



Joined: 26 Jul 2008
Posts: 114
Location: South Africa

PostPosted: Sat Oct 18, 2008 10:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Number 4 was going to be electric water pump which is another ancillary sapping power, then I saw the thread for the "$25 sun roof" and it all came back to me, all those power enhancing decals and paint jobs available in the 1970s before EFI, ECUs I'm thinking of matt black bonnet (hood) good for 5hp minimum, go faster stripes, sun-strips and for you hard core types out there a white square on the door with a crossed out number, happy days
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ideola  



Joined: 01 Oct 2004
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Location: Spring Lake MI

PostPosted: Sat Oct 18, 2008 10:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not exactly an inexpensive alternative, and more difficult to execute (i.e. control) on a non-ECU'd car. I've found two decent altneratives in my searching, and both cost nearly USD$300 new for the pump alone. They can also creates issues with in cabin heat and thermostatic control. Worthwhile on a track car, but I'm not sure it makes sense for a daily driver, especially given the lifespan rating of the electric pumps.
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Vince Ponz  



Joined: 02 Nov 2002
Posts: 3581
Location: Florida

PostPosted: Sat Oct 18, 2008 11:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Lighten the car as much as possible..................cost nothing
Go on a diet....................................................cost nothing
Divorce wife....................................................give her everything
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79 931 Euro stock
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Martijnus  



Joined: 29 Dec 2006
Posts: 2019
Location: Netherlands

PostPosted: Sun Oct 19, 2008 2:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Been thinking about that alternator stuff... if you brake, your alternator should go on... for more braking power too
I think MS can handle all that stuff...
and only charge below 11V or whatever (when not cranking)
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tuurbo  



Joined: 08 Aug 2007
Posts: 1446
Location: East Windsor, New Jersey

PostPosted: Sun Oct 19, 2008 6:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think MS can handle all that stuff...

I think my boost switch can do it for me! I just want that alternator to come off with the onset of boost. My MSD Digital 6 has outputs that (I think) can send current to other devices.

My problem is I don't know what to do with current I get from a boost switch or current I get from the MSD.

So electricity isn't my strong suit - if my boost switch has power running through it, how to I convert that current, or whatever, into signal the alternator understands? Like, if the power coming off to charge the battery has current, I can't see how sending that wire more current is going to shut down the alternator. So I'll need some kind of switch that interrupts current to the battery? Is my head on straight here?
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bruni  



Joined: 26 Jul 2008
Posts: 114
Location: South Africa

PostPosted: Sun Oct 19, 2008 6:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Number 4 electric water pump
Quote:
Not exactly an inexpensive alternative, and more difficult to execute (i.e. control) on a non-ECU'd car. I've found two decent altneratives in my searching, and both cost nearly USD$300 new for the pump alone.


That was my thought when I started to look into it, not only expensive but many people seem to question the reliability! I think there are several manufacturers starting to use electric water pumps and auxiliary water pumps but not enough that you could pick them up at a breakers. I was about to dismiss it when I got to thinking
What if you keep the standard pump and drive it with an auxiliary electric motor on the N/A you could put the motor where the alternator fits on the 931. A quick search on ebay found a suitable motor for about $50 you would have to make a bracket and pulley, would not cost much. No additional hoses and you keep the standard thermostat and if the motor failed you could just put the standard fan belt back on. So I reckon about $100 should do it. Control could be very simple relay switched by the ignition, however it would be nice to keep it running after the ign is tuned off just to cool down the head. I reckon it could release about 3-5hp (provided you adopt the alternator mod) which would be useful on a N/A
what's your thoughts [/quote]
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ideola  



Joined: 01 Oct 2004
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Location: Spring Lake MI

PostPosted: Sun Oct 19, 2008 9:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The biggest challenge is finding a motor suitable for continuous duty, which would be required for a street-driven car. There are a couple on the market under $100 sold by the big race shops, but none of them are rated for continuous duty. You really need an industrial strength motor that can withstand continuous operation while enduring the under-bonnet heat. Most of the motors that fit that description are close to $200. Just doesn't seem worthwhile to me on street driven car.

On a track car, totally makes sense, but in my case I'm going with a Davies Craig setup, which I will control from my ECU. The integral pump seems to be a better way to go, as they have been tested for these type of applications, and at ~$270 seems to be the best option. The challenge on a street car, as I've pointed out, is that the ideal setup eliminates the thermostat, and may not provide enough flow to also accommodate the heater core. Of course, a secondary could be added, but that just adds more cost and complexity.
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