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asalmona Guest
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Posted: Sat Jul 06, 2002 9:36 am Post subject: |
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anyone every experience this?... for some reason the driver side latch on my rear hatch keeps poping open... iv tried adjusting it and it still keeps popping open when i drive over rough roads... any ideas or tips on how to adjust it properly?
Alex |
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Richard Guest
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Posted: Sun Jul 07, 2002 12:48 am Post subject: |
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When you look in the hole on that side how much of the little crescent of metal shows compared to the other side? Disconnect the thin rods that come from the key cylinder and feel the spring tension on each side. Could be you need a new mechanism or spring.
Also does the cone that attaches to the hatch have a good sharp top shoulder or is it rounded off? Switch the cones side to side and see if that makes the problem switch sides. |
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gohim Guest
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Posted: Sun Jul 07, 2002 3:49 am Post subject: |
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Was the rear hatch rattling at sometime?
As the rubber seal crushes down and wears over time, the hatch becomes loose and starts to rattle.
Many people try to cheap out, and simply tighten down the Locking Pins to hold the hatch down. This is a mistake, since what it does is overstress the glue bond between the metal hatch frame, and the glass. Once broken, it is almost impossible to rebond the glass to the frame permanently, so you should baby you rear hatch.
If I remember correctly, you recently bought this car right?
My guess is that the Seller, knowing that the hatch rattled, cranked down the locking pins so that the hatch could be forced to close down tight and not rattle. In fact, the Locking Pins were probably screwed down so tight, that you are not pressing down hard enough to latch the Locking Pins.
DO NOT PRESS DOWN THAT HARD ON THE HATCH TO LOCK IT. YOU WILL DAMAGE THE GLUE BOND THAT I MENTIONED ABOVE.
To test my theory, try loosening the locking pins (unscrew them 2 or three turns) and try locking the rear hatch. If I am right, that should cure your locking problem. However, now the hatch will probably rattle, exhaust fumes could enter the car (dangerous). What you need to do at this point is replace the rear hatch rubber seal ($60-$100 depending on where on buy it) to cure the rattle, and seal the rear hatch properly.
[ This Message was edited by: gohim on 2002-07-07 05:41 ] |
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8trdrvr Guest
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Posted: Sun Jul 07, 2002 4:45 am Post subject: |
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To follow up to GoHim,
There has been a rear hatch seal floating around on Ebay for sometime now, i think its around 60 beans.
good luck,
Kevin
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924RACR

Joined: 29 Jul 2001 Posts: 9076 Location: Royal Oak, MI, USA
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Posted: Sun Jul 07, 2002 11:34 pm Post subject: |
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I was having a horrible time with this on my 82 931. Replaced the rear shocks, that helped. Then I noticed that the latches were not square to the body - loosened the 10mm nuts that hold them on and straightened the latches. That helped greatly. I had already diddled with the pins.
_________________ Vaughan Scott
Webmeister
'79 924 #77 SCCA H Prod racecar
'82 931 Plat. Silver
#25 Hidari Firefly P2 sports prototype |
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