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[8trdrvr]

Does this sound like a good idea to you guys? Lemme know what you think…

Thought I had a leaky water pump so I had a new one put in. The mechanic tells me that the water pump he pulled off is fine, and that everything's tight. He feels that its blowing water through the weep hole in the water pump because there is exhaust gases over pressurizing the cooling system. Thence, why im losing fluid at a slow but steady rate. Oil looks good, very clean. Car runs GREAT after its warmed up. I have a very hard time starting the car and have to keep it at 1500 RPM till its warmed up then its okay.

After pulling the plugs they looked brown, some a little dark but the #2 plug was black with white at the very tip, and almost shiny…

His recommendation. Pull the head, machine it, new gasket, reseat/ the valves while its off.

I think this sounds like it makes sense… hes not bringing me over the coals to do the work…
Kevin

-i dont know why this computer keeps dropping the N off KEVI-N- thats a whole nother story...
_________________
ATR-42 Driver (EWR) -Runs on Jet Fuel
1982 Porsche 924 -Runs on mogas
First time Porsche owner :

[ This Message was edited by: 8trdrvr on 2002-06-01 05:18 ]

[Diesel]

Well, you don't say what tests he ran to come to this conclusion. Did he base it on a cooling system pressure test while running or was it an exhaust gas 'sniffer' test? Compression/leakdown test? You have to actually go through the tests before condemning the headgasket, that's a big job to do on a guess. Let us know what you find out.

[teo]

I had it very similarly, but at the end I had to have it towed to the mechanic, so you better have that headgasket done before it quits.
I'm no expert in that but the ones here on the board recommend "baking" the head instead of machining it, so you'll have the original compression, etc.

[numbers]

Although these cars are famous (of infamous) for blown headgaskets, I see no reason why an excessive pressure in your cooling system would cause a good waterpump to leak at the weep hole. Your pressure cap will release the pressure long before the water pump seal would leak. Are you sure that your mechanic replaced the waterpump? Did he give you the old one back? If you are sure that it was replaced, run it for a while and check your entire system for leaks. You may want to invest in a compression gauge, and do a compression test. If one cylinder is way down on compression, then consider getting the head job done. Otherwise just drive it.

[8trdrvr]

Well, he took the old water pump off and inspected it. The old water pump was tested and inspected it looked fine, even to me. he didnt hang the new one cause he figured hed talk to me first. after all, most of that stuff has to come off anyways if i told him to go ahead with the head. I was planning on 200 bucks for the timing belt and new water pump. so for an extra $350 bucks i may buy myself some peice of mind. It is a expensive CHANCE like you guys said up there but it sorta makes sense.

The coolant leaking from the wheep hole at a steady, but slow rate, very hard starts till everything warms up, due to compression leaks.

I could risk it, have it all buttoned up now give him the 200 bucks and be done with it but something tells me it will only come up again and i should try and nip this now.

Keep them comin guys, i wont give him the go head till monday but right now im leaning towards going ahead. Thanks!!!
Kevin

_________________
ATR-42 Driver (EWR) -Runs on Jet Fuel
1982 Porsche 924 -Runs on mogas
First time Porsche owner :

[ This Message was edited by: 8trdrvr on 2002-06-01 05:16 ]

[Smoothie]

I had to replace my water pump once just because it was leaking from that hole in front. The pump itself seemed ok - no wobbles, no noise, just the leak. I put a new one on and the problem was solved. I have to say just make sure they replace with a good pump. -I never had any trouble with the head gasket.-

Whenever I think of it, I add a few spaces after the last character typed so nothing gets dropped.

[ This Message was edited by: smoothie on 2002-06-01 06:37 ]

[gohim]

You never mentioned how many miles are on the engine. The black #2 plug would bother me.

Maybe you have more than one problem.

If I were you, I would be leaning towards having the head pulled, and the valves serviced. You will probably need to have a number of the valve guides replaced, that could take care of your #2 plug problem.

But before I had the head done, I would do a little investigation. It is hard to start in the morning, right? Then, in the morning, turn the key. When it doesn't start immediately, raise the hood, and pull the plugs. Look to see what/which plug/s is/are wet. Is it/are they wet with coolant or oil? Coolant will boil off when exposed to a flame, and gas will burn.

If it is coolant, then you have a blown headgasket for sure. If it is oil, then you probably have a bad valve stem seal, and/or bad valve guide. If it is gas, you probably have one or more leaking fuel injectors.

[ This Message was edited by: gohim on 2002-06-02 03:12 ]

[8trdrvr]

The car has 64,000 miles on it. I thought gaskets were a function of miles figuring my Explorer with over 100,000 miles has been mechanicaly sound (knock on wood) but what ive learned so far is that with these head gaskets its more or less a function of AGE. the car is an 82'.

as much as id love to just button it up and try out the new pump i feel like it will be peice of mind while its already apart to just have this done and sacrafice the few hundred bucks.

The one plug from the #2 cyldr was CLEARLY WHITE and almost looked 'polished' while the others just looked to be running a little rich.

It would just piss me off to have this head done, fix the leaking cooling system and still have a hard time starting in the morning .

From what i feel, and the looks of the input from you all, looks like i'll tell him to go head with the head

Guys, thanks one million times over !!!

Kevin
(and the money pit deepens)

[Lizard]

man you guys get shitty prices down there up here in canada i can get the head machined and a valve grind for $150 cdn after tax

[8trdrvr]

Now Lizard... there are just some things you DONT NEED to post

Kev

[Lizard]

hey man sorry

[Smoothie]

Do remember to have the head straightened by heating rather that machining. It's been suggested several times in these forums. -Also, the good luck I'm having with my head gasket might not be all luck - shortly after I bought the car, I was scared into installing a set of Raceware head bolts by some literature I read. They were about $110usd for the set. I have an '82 931 and turned up the boost with an adjustable boost control - something that puts more stress on the head gasket.

[8trdrvr]

This just in... I found out from my mechanic, who has serviced this car for the past two years, that my car was overheated by the prior owner. ahhh the plot thickens.

Kevin

PS. if i ask my mechanic to "bake" the head rather than just machine it should i be expecting him to say.. "its gonna cost ya?", im working on a tight budget to do this head

[Lizard]

why is it not good to have this head machined, and instead have it baked

[Smoothie]

From: http://www.924board.org/viewtopic.php?topic=2445&forum=1