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It's very possible whatever he did knocked some crud loose, or maybe pushed some hardened o-rings over the edge. FDs aren't that bad to work on, in my experience. I've rebuilt three and not ruined or ...

Hmmm, I'd take a closer look at the valve cover gaskets and eliminate that before I'd mess with the head bolts, other than torquing them. Oil leaks like to travel, and depending on where you're seeing ...

My bet is you could repair a damaged ignition module like that for around $10 - if you had some familiarity with soldering and working with circuit boards. Typically on circuit board repairs like that ...

Like Raize said, there might be pins and springs from other applications that would work. One to look into is mid-70s Audis. Like I mentioned earlier, they used a similar caliper (and I think the same ...

I bet you got a hardware kit for the all-disk, five-lug setup. I just looked on Pelican parts, and the pins and springs look just like that on the kit they sell. Unfortunately, it's easy to end up wit ...

It seems the pads used are critical with the stock brakes. I'd remembered (and just found again) a post with a pic of around ten sets of used-up brake pads from an endurance race - by Cedric actually. ...

I'm not disagreeing or suggesting brake upgrades should be an automatic for every car that's driven aggressively, it's just that I can't imagine brake fade isn't significant if the car is pushed hard ...

That ducting idea might make a big difference; I'd think of it as a must-do on a track car with 4-lug brakes. For severe duty, the 4-lug setup is doubly-compromised because of the non-vented disks and ...

There are basically three options: first, keep the stock brakes setup and upgrade pads and shoes and such (like MikeJ laid out); second, find the parts you need to upgrade to the later brake setup; th ...

My air admittance valve (we're talking about the idle compensator that allows more air when cold, then closes down as the engine warms up, right?) has always worked fine; only thing I've done to it is ...

Hey, were are you at in Montana? I live an hour SW of Billings, not far from Red Lodge. I've always thought a carb conversion would be cool; I might have leaned that way if I were in your situation. I ...

That's actually a very similar color, and level of oxidation, to my 560SEL. I half-like the look, except I've got some rust peeking out on the R rear quarter panel (isolated problem, thankfully). I'll ...

I can't think of anyone who's reported no issues with warm starts on a CIS car, so I wouldn't worry as long as it's not taking excessive time to start hot (like 15 seconds or more of cranking). Mine t ...

Good chance it's the switch. Mine was broken up internally when I got the car. I don't remember how it acted exactly, but definitely no turn signals. I can't say that's the only thing it could be, and ...

I'll wait for Chuck to chime in, but it doesn't sound like a hot start issue to me. "Put the old relay back in, and it fired right up." Sure sounds like no fuel. Unfortunately, that ebay rel ...