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4 Lug rear disc brakes?
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Cedric  



Joined: 27 Aug 2004
Posts: 2614
Location: Sweden

PostPosted: Fri Nov 03, 2023 6:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Raize wrote:
It's true that hooning is actually harder on the brakes than actual track driving as you have to massively over-brake every corner due to lack of sight.

I'm planning on doing a brake duct solution on my 4-bolt 924 in combination with "mid-range" brake pads like Mintex 1144 that work well cold and warm but not race-hot.

I hope that with the active cooling the front brakes can stay happy and that the rear drums, due to weight transfer, don't have to do much anyway. Every time I've felt the wheels after some hoony driving the rears are always luke warm and the fronts painful to touch.


I dont think you can come near to track temps on the road, maybe if you never let the foot of the brake

I think 114 should work well without any other upgrades other than fluid, brake lines could be nice aswell, most people dont know how extreme the difference is between a std pad and something racier.

I did a 12h endurance race with a team that ran a fairly std 924, however the pads didnt arrive in time, so the local car parts stores were emptied on all brands of std pads. Even with minimising the braking we could still only get 45minutes to 1h out of a set of front pads, and yes we ended up being very fast at changing those . They later got the Hawk HP+ on my recommendation and could easily run 6 and 12h races without any pad changes, and its not even a very hardcore pad.


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Raize  



Joined: 18 Sep 2013
Posts: 186
Location: Scotland

PostPosted: Fri Nov 03, 2023 9:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I faded my brakes on about 5 miles on B-road with extremely aggressive driving once. Either on full throttle or full brake at all times so of course they got hot. Back when I had no-name EBay pads on it, TRW I think.

My thought process is that on track the speeds are higher, so you might at least be getting more airflow around the brake to cool them.

I've fitted EBC Yellow now and though it's nice when warmed up a little, it's not great when cold - you can push all you want but the friction just isn't there. They're about half worn after 8000 miles of driving.

There's not that many options for 4-bolt pads, it's like

1. EBay TRW
2. EBC coloured pads
3. Mintex 1144
4. Mintex 1155
5. Hawk of various types, probably HP+ (but hard to get, for me)
6. Carbon Lorraine of various types, probably RC5+
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safe  



Joined: 18 Mar 2017
Posts: 591
Location: Sweden

PostPosted: Fri Nov 03, 2023 10:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Big brakes are easy on the pads, that a good thing for sure. With a more common caliper used on performance cars there is usually a bigger supply of premium pads.
On my 911's I use Performance Friction on turbo calipers (same as 924 Carrera GTS), they lasts for several seasons of track usage!


Back on track:
Peugeot 406 have solid rear rotors 290x10 mm with a height (wheel face to back of rotor) of 60mm. So that disk will space inward quite bit, I think that is a gootd thing. Golf 3 have calipers for 10mm disks with mechanical parking brake and it has 38mm pistons. I think that could be an OK match for my Volvo front calipers. With smaller front pistons the 406 calipers would be pretty ok.

Vented rotors in the size 290-300 x 20 mm with some height to them would have been ideal, but I haven't found any in 4x108. Golf 4 / Audi A3 have aluminum 1 piston (41 mm) calipers that could have been useful.
Maybe there are some Japanese stuff, but most a 5 lug.

All these calipers above are quite inexpensive.
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Cedric  



Joined: 27 Aug 2004
Posts: 2614
Location: Sweden

PostPosted: Sat Nov 04, 2023 12:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Raize wrote:
I faded my brakes on about 5 miles on B-road with extremely aggressive driving once. Either on full throttle or full brake at all times so of course they got hot. Back when I had no-name EBay pads on it, TRW I think.

My thought process is that on track the speeds are higher, so you might at least be getting more airflow around the brake to cool them.

I've fitted EBC Yellow now and though it's nice when warmed up a little, it's not great when cold - you can push all you want but the friction just isn't there. They're about half worn after 8000 miles of driving.

There's not that many options for 4-bolt pads, it's like

1. EBay TRW
2. EBC coloured pads
3. Mintex 1144
4. Mintex 1155
5. Hawk of various types, probably HP+ (but hard to get, for me)
6. Carbon Lorraine of various types, probably RC5+


Hawks are sold from plenty of resellers here in Europe, or directly from the states. I also ran carbotech xp8, durable aswell.

Magnus , there seem to be several vag rear calipers with a neat hand brake mechanism, they look a bit tiny but should probably work well.
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safe  



Joined: 18 Mar 2017
Posts: 591
Location: Sweden

PostPosted: Fri Nov 17, 2023 9:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Starting the front upgrade. Seems to fit at least.

Ford Focus ST 170 disks, Volvo V70 calipers.


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safe  



Joined: 18 Mar 2017
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 17, 2023 9:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Original front rotors turned down to just hubs.


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Juho  



Joined: 03 Oct 2018
Posts: 381
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 18, 2023 3:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is awesome! Did you do any machining on the new hub except cutting off the rotor? Or did you have to modify the center bore for new rotor?
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safe  



Joined: 18 Mar 2017
Posts: 591
Location: Sweden

PostPosted: Sat Nov 18, 2023 3:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Juho wrote:
This is awesome! Did you do any machining on the new hub except cutting off the rotor? Or did you have to modify the center bore for new rotor?


I made a small spacer ring to center the rotor on the hub, you may see it on the first picture.
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!tom  



Joined: 28 Aug 2006
Posts: 1934
Location: Victoria, BC Canada

PostPosted: Sat Nov 18, 2023 4:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Awesome
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Juho  



Joined: 03 Oct 2018
Posts: 381
Location: Finland

PostPosted: Sat Nov 18, 2023 5:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

safe wrote:
Juho wrote:
This is awesome! Did you do any machining on the new hub except cutting off the rotor? Or did you have to modify the center bore for new rotor?


I made a small spacer ring to center the rotor on the hub, you may see it on the first picture.


Sorry if im bothering you too much but im just wondering isnt the rotor now where the wheel is supposed to be sitting? Does this create some problems?
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Beartooth  



Joined: 05 Apr 2022
Posts: 212
Location: Roberts, MT

PostPosted: Sun Nov 19, 2023 5:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I can see what you guys are saying about the stock brakes - definitely adequate for street use, outside of very aggressive driving on very twisty (and empty) roads. One thing too, a stock 24 (125HP, or less...) will be easier on brakes in even the most aggressive driving: you start braking later and have less energy to dissipate if you're doing 100 at the end of a straight instead of 120. I'm amazed better pads would extend the life that much - I'd have figured smaller, solid rotors would be hard on anything on the track. In my case, I do most of my aggressive driving on unpaved roads. It's more fun not having to get flying to reach the grip limits (plus not many paved roads are twisty around here). The lack of grip also means it takes longer to put energy in, as well as take it out, so I doubt I'll ever see any issues there.

Anyway, that looks like a pretty significant brake upgrade you've got going, safe! One front rotor I've considered is from some 80's Fords (4-lug Mustangs, for one). It's 256MM, and looks like it's got enough height, or offset. I have no idea how hard it'd be to adapt the existing spindle to use the Mustang bearings, or adapt the hub to use the Porsche/VW bearings. It's the same bolt pattern though, although using studs. I'm also not sure there what the best solution would be - ditch the studs and drill and tap it for bolts, or find/make some nuts that'd work with the stock rims. Here's a pretty detailed view of the rotor/hub I'm talking about: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=2033432&cc=1133996&pt=1896&jsn=1438 You might even be able to use the stock caliper, but I imagine you'd have to somehow grind the pads down at least half-way to account for the thicker rotor. That might be a good place to use the VW calipers someone on here was experimenting with, especially since the original calipers are hard to find parts for.

On the rear, that Pugeot rotor sounds like a good choice. I'd come to a similar conclusion, that a taller (more offset) rotor would be desirable unless you were to make a completely new hub. I've done some digging through some vehicles I think might be a match and came across similar results: there aren't a lot of 4-lug disk brakes, and adding the high offset and ease of mounting to a drum machined down to make a hub cuts out many of those. Something like a Mercedes rear disk setup (which incorporates a small drum brake for the parking brake) would be nice, but all of those seem to be five-lug. So a caliper setup that incorporates the parking brake would probably be required. A custom-made hub would solve a lot of problems, but I can only guess that would cost hundreds of dollars, and it just doesn't make sense to spend much money there.

Ultimately, I think the goal would be to find vented disks for the front, just a solid disk in back is fine, and use all off-the-shelf parts other than caliper mounts and maybe a bushing or two (to adapt the rotor, like safe did, or to adapt different wheel bearings to the spindle). I can't say I need the extra brakes at this point, but I'd like to have them, and eliminating the brake shoe adjustment would be really nice too. I tightened the shoes once since I got mine going, and I can already discern a little drop in the pedal. I might just have to get in the habit of adding a click now and then.
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safe  



Joined: 18 Mar 2017
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Location: Sweden

PostPosted: Sun Nov 19, 2023 5:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have a set of Peugeot solid rear rotors, I will find a way to adapt them to the rear. I also have a rear caliper suiting the 10 mm rear rotors with 38mm pistons, should be near a good ratio for my front pistons.

I need to do something with the master cylinder and brake lines. I will try with a 23+ mm 931 MC.
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safe  



Joined: 18 Mar 2017
Posts: 591
Location: Sweden

PostPosted: Thu Nov 23, 2023 3:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Juho wrote:
safe wrote:
Juho wrote:
This is awesome! Did you do any machining on the new hub except cutting off the rotor? Or did you have to modify the center bore for new rotor?


I made a small spacer ring to center the rotor on the hub, you may see it on the first picture.


Sorry if im bothering you too much but im just wondering isnt the rotor now where the wheel is supposed to be sitting? Does this create some problems?


No worries.
My 16" steel wheels clears, I measured right!



Took the photos "blind" so too speak, hoping to get the angle right.

Almost looks like a 15" wheel could fit, if it were thinly cast.




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Porsche 924 -79 NA, EFI and Turbo.
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Cedric  



Joined: 27 Aug 2004
Posts: 2614
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 23, 2023 5:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not even close
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safe  



Joined: 18 Mar 2017
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Location: Sweden

PostPosted: Thu Nov 23, 2023 6:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'll try 15s, but I don't have any here in Stockholm.
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