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Motor mount replacement

 
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augidog  



Joined: 03 Mar 2003
Posts: 1360
Location: New Jersey

PostPosted: Wed Jan 24, 2007 10:32 am    Post subject: Motor mount replacement Reply with quote

Right mount –Passenger side US version

Additional notes:
Remove rubber cover from the top the fuel sending unit before raising or lowering engine.
Clutch cable adjustment may be needed after installation.
The front muffler hanger may need adjustment replacement from the engine's new location.




I hope this saves you some time.
I will edit in any ideas or tricks you guys may have.

Quote:
Time needed 1 ½ hour or less with no rusty bolts

Tools needed:
· Metric sockets 17,19
· Extension 12” or any combo to get the height.
· 7mm Allen wrench -a socket does not have enough clearance to work (double check you have this odd size. My set did not have it!)
· Breaker bar or pipe to fit over socket wrench.(leverage)



-Ramp the car front. (I personally don’t trust stands)
-Disconnect the battery.
-Using a 2x4 wood block, place a jack under the oil pan. (Just support the engine and be wary of the fins.)
-keep an eye on the boot that covers the fuel metering plate,I raised or lowered mine loose.
- Raise the motor slightly to take pressure off the top bolts.
-Breaks loose the top mount nuts with the extension. (Loosen don’t remove yet.)


-Remove the starter heat shields.
-Break and remove the lower bolt. (This will require the breaker or a leverage pipe.)
- Drop the starter. (Just lower the starter out of the way no need to remove the wires. but I did not have OEM wiring.)
-You should now be able to access the Allen bolts that hold the mount to the engine. Remove both with the 7mm Allen –(mine loosened 1st try by hand)
-Remove the mounting arm with mount.
-Remove the old mount.
-Test fit the new upper mount bolts through the upper mount holes (my new mount needed to be spaced a little farther out with a hammer tap to go in smoothly.)
-Install the new mount in the arm off the car and tighten the lower bolt. (Hand tight then ½ to ¾ turn)


-Install the mount arm on the engine.
-While slowly jacking the engine, angle the upper mount bolts into their holes (guide with a long screwdriver. They will not go all the way in and will be shy for the nut and washer)
-Go above the car and lift the engine using a bar between the block and the strut mount. (It will lift easily don’t crush anything)


-Start both nuts this way and then tighten.
-Put everything else back in.

Left mount –Passenger side US version
I hope this saves you some time.
I will edit in any ideas or tricks you guys may have.

Quote:
[i]Time needed 45 min or less with no rusty bolts

Tools needed:
· Metric sockets 17,19,14
· Extension 12” or any combo to get the height.
· Swivel adapter (important)

Notice the sagging rubber in the old mount.

-Ramp the car front. )-Using a 2x4 wood block, place a jack under the oil pan. (Just support the engine and be wary of the fins.)
-keep an eye on the boot that covers the fuel metering plate,I raised or lowered mine loose.
- Raise the motor slightly to take pressure off the top bolts.
-Break and remove the top mount nuts with the extension. (You will need the swivel to reach them)
-Remove the dipstick.
-Remove the intake manifold support, (3 bolts)
-Remove the 2 bolts holding the hard radiator pipe that goes to the back of the engine (one is the top motor mount bolt to the engine block)
-Remove the 2 lower mount bolts to the engine block
-Lower the engine.
-Slide the mount and arm down (you may have to raise the hard pipe slightly to remove it)
-Remove the mounting arm with mount going toward the engine front.
-Remove the old mount.
-There is a reason why the mount has a bevel on the bottom. the bevel accounts for the underside of the left mount otherwise it will not sit flat.(there was a homemade spacer on my old mount.)

-Install the new mount in the arm off the car and tighten the lower bolt(spray the bottom rubber with silicone so it can be adjusted/turned slightly later without ruining the rubber. (Hand tight then ½ to ¾ turn or you will be fighting to tighten this bolt on the car if its too loose.)

-Install the mount arm on the engine. Slide it back up and under the hard pipe (this was the most difficult. you may have to raise the pipe again slightly)

-Start the upper engine mount arm bolt then do the lowers
-Check the position of the mount.
-While slowly jacking the engine, angle the upper mount bolts into their holes
-Start both nuts this way and then tighten.
-Put everything else back in
_________________
1978 924 95 mile daily driver.
Audi TB/POR174M/High Flow Cat/2.25" exhaust
I knew that positive thinking thing wouldn't work.


Last edited by augidog on Sat Mar 10, 2007 4:45 am; edited 5 times in total
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Rasta Monsta  



Joined: 12 Jul 2006
Posts: 11408
Location: PacNW

PostPosted: Thu Jan 25, 2007 6:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Awesome, man, thanks!
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Peter_in_AU  



Joined: 29 Jul 2001
Posts: 2742
Location: Sydney, Australia

PostPosted: Thu Jan 25, 2007 7:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

that's great! I always thought it would be harder that that.

Thanks.
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Ozzie  



Joined: 12 Mar 2005
Posts: 4447
Location: Townsville, Qld. Australia

PostPosted: Thu Jan 25, 2007 10:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Try doing it with a steering shaft in the way.
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Rasta Monsta  



Joined: 12 Jul 2006
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Location: PacNW

PostPosted: Fri Jan 26, 2007 4:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oz, should we call you a waaahmbulance?


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Ozzie  



Joined: 12 Mar 2005
Posts: 4447
Location: Townsville, Qld. Australia

PostPosted: Fri Jan 26, 2007 9:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

No need.
Done my mounts a year ago and it was difficult on the exhaust side.
The steering shaft adds to the degree of skin removal.
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Porsche 924 1984 (UK import) NA
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steeny  



Joined: 24 Nov 2005
Posts: 319
Location: Brisbane, Australia

PostPosted: Fri Jan 26, 2007 10:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

i was thinking the same thing ozzie. i recently replaced my starter motor, and the line

-Remove the starter heat shields.

sounds easy, but it took me at least an hour and a half. one of the bolts is obscured by manifold heat shielding and the steering shaft doesnt help either, and in general, anywhere on that side of the engine is a bitch to get to.

but otherwise it looks easy enough.
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Rasta Monsta  



Joined: 12 Jul 2006
Posts: 11408
Location: PacNW

PostPosted: Tue Jan 08, 2008 9:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Anyone done this on the exhaust side of a 931? I just laid under there for a while, and it looks nigh impossible with the engine in the car.
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mehall  



Joined: 15 Dec 2008
Posts: 191
Location: Richmond, MO

PostPosted: Tue Aug 03, 2010 4:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's 3 years later, and the photos are no longer hosted is the same place. Any chance of relocating the Images - Preferably in a more permanent server?
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tyfighter123  



Joined: 19 Jan 2010
Posts: 549
Location: Colorado

PostPosted: Fri Aug 27, 2010 6:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Any word on the pictures?
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Joes924Racer  



Joined: 03 Nov 2002
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 09, 2011 6:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pics would make the day.
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DentalFlossTycoon  



Joined: 27 Nov 2016
Posts: 13
Location: Bozeman, MT

PostPosted: Sun Jan 17, 2021 7:01 am    Post subject: Exhaust manifold/starter heat shield Reply with quote

Can anyone give me a tip for removing the heat shield between the exhaust manifold and starter (LHD 2.0 NA)? I’m stumped and can’t get to the passenger side engine mounts without moving this thing out of the way.
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