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WTB Cold Start Valve

 
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poor-sche  



Joined: 06 Jan 2017
Posts: 73
Location: Los Angeles, CA

PostPosted: Mon May 04, 2020 6:18 am    Post subject: WTB Cold Start Valve Reply with quote

I performed the cold start valve test on my ‘80 931 according to the workshop manual and my valve appears to be kaput. Does anyone have a working CSV they can spare? Or perhaps a lead on a less expensive Bosch replacement as the Porsche one is $$$$.

Part No. 930 606 107 00
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Fasteddie313  



Joined: 29 Sep 2013
Posts: 1933
Location: MI

PostPosted: Mon May 04, 2020 11:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

yeah.. pm me.
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Carrera RSR  



Joined: 08 Jan 2010
Posts: 1973
Location: Somerset, UK

PostPosted: Mon May 04, 2020 6:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mines been unplugged since the engine rebuild. Starts and runs cold without the need for a CSV........
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poor-sche  



Joined: 06 Jan 2017
Posts: 73
Location: Los Angeles, CA

PostPosted: Mon May 04, 2020 11:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Trying to correct some nagging issues to make it more reliable. Press the pedal to the floor once then crank and my car starts up, but then I have to modulate the rpms for the next 15-30 seconds or she’ll die. Afterwards, the car runs fine. My CSV is dead but will replacing it fix my issue or is my problem with the WUR?
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Paul  



Joined: 02 Nov 2002
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Location: Southeast Wisconsin

PostPosted: Mon May 04, 2020 11:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Have you checked your AAV? (Auxiliary Air Valve)
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poor-sche  



Joined: 06 Jan 2017
Posts: 73
Location: Los Angeles, CA

PostPosted: Tue May 05, 2020 12:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

No, I had not.

According to the workshop manual...

1.)Detach hose at auxiliary air regulator
2.)Check visually that air passage is open
3.)Disconnect electrical connector at air flow sensor
4.)Turn on ignition and check that air passage closes after 5 min.

What electrical connector at the air flow sensor is it referring to?
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Paul  



Joined: 02 Nov 2002
Posts: 9430
Location: Southeast Wisconsin

PostPosted: Tue May 05, 2020 1:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Your car doesn’t have one. Ignore that instruction.

You can also disconnect the AAV and check to see if you have a few ohms of resistance between the terminals on the AAV if it’s infinity or open, its shot.
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Polar Silver 02 996TT. "Turbo"
Owned and repaired 924s since 1977
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poor-sche  



Joined: 06 Jan 2017
Posts: 73
Location: Los Angeles, CA

PostPosted: Tue May 05, 2020 1:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oh, I see. I'll check when I get back home and follow up here.
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Fasteddie313  



Joined: 29 Sep 2013
Posts: 1933
Location: MI

PostPosted: Tue May 05, 2020 7:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have an AAV that can go too, but if you want my CSV I'll need your old one in trade to put back in my intake to plug the hole it is in..

I also have an 80 931 WUR and fuel distributor that can go too..

Figure out what you need and we can probably make a good deal..
Do a good proper CIS test..

The CSV helps it fire up in the first place like a choke and the AAV regulates the RPM up a bit like a throttle so it will idle good while it is warming up..
Thermotime switch tells the CSV what to do and when..
The WUR controls the fuel mixture through and after warmup..

Your problem sounds like the AAV also isn't working quite right..

I suggest just check everything completely, and ofcourse all your vacuum lines, and make it right once and for all..


I don't have my CSV hooked up to anything, don't use it, but sometimes when it is really cold I stick something in my airplate to prop it open a bit and prime the fuel pump up by turning the key on and off untill I hear my injectors spray a bit to give it a little shot of fuel, take the block out of the airplate, and then it will fire right up even if its extremely cold outside..

I don't use an AAV either.. I just modulate my throttle a bit until it idles nicely..
It's not all luxury automatic like, but I don't mind.. Adds to the experience..
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