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931 (Woody) project
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jacobroufa  



Joined: 18 Nov 2016
Posts: 286
Location: Rockford, IL

PostPosted: Wed May 27, 2020 8:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks! It'll be really good when it's all done. Need to pull the trigger on some silicone tubing. It's so dang expensive!

Mike do you mean like these bits? Or the metal upper and lower tubes / AAV / deceleration valve? Or just that it was all even there to begin with and not messed with??


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1981 Porsche 924 Weissach
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Mike9311  



Joined: 14 Dec 2004
Posts: 878
Location: Chicago-ish

PostPosted: Wed May 27, 2020 10:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

jacobroufa wrote:
Thanks! It'll be really good when it's all done. Need to pull the trigger on some silicone tubing. It's so dang expensive!

Mike do you mean like these bits? Or the metal upper and lower tubes / AAV / deceleration valve? Or just that it was all even there to begin with and not messed with??



All the cadmium plated stuff and other tubes.
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1980 931 since 1989
1981 Ideola 931 Club Sport
1982 931 Entwicklungsfahrzeug
1979 924 NA M650 Herausnehmbares Dach
1982 931 Red Resurrection - 951 IC
1982 931 parts car / resurrection?
1980 924 NA (R&D lightweight)
1982 931 wana-be GTR race car
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jacobroufa  



Joined: 18 Nov 2016
Posts: 286
Location: Rockford, IL

PostPosted: Thu May 28, 2020 12:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mike9311 wrote:
All the cadmium plated stuff and other tubes.


Nice. I hadn't thought of it as a lucky find.. I'm glad Dan didn't start parting this out!!

So the rest of my vacuum stuff is ordered, hopefully all the silicone hose fits well. Never worked with the stuff before.

I am wondering if there's a particular way I can wrap some tape around or otherwise coerce the larger silicone hose that feeds the lower small lines and brake booster, so that it conforms to a similar shape as the old hose?

I also pulled the trigger on a Turbonetics MBC because I was reading a thread in the Tech forum and got excited. Gotta figure out thread sizes for all the things so I can get the proper fittings once it shows up.. I have seen conflicting info on the forum. Yes I know I said I wouldn't turn up the boost until I got an intercooler.. I probably still won't. Plans for that have been accelerated though as I recently sold some crap I have been hoarding in an attempt to gain some more working space in my garage.. I have to wait until some other projects of mine wrap up but I think maybe before the summer is out...
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Mike9311  



Joined: 14 Dec 2004
Posts: 878
Location: Chicago-ish

PostPosted: Thu May 28, 2020 11:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

jacobroufa wrote:
Mike9311 wrote:
All the cadmium plated stuff and other tubes.


Nice. I hadn't thought of it as a lucky find.. I'm glad Dan didn't start parting this out!!

So the rest of my vacuum stuff is ordered, hopefully all the silicone hose fits well. Never worked with the stuff before.

I am wondering if there's a particular way I can wrap some tape around or otherwise coerce the larger silicone hose that feeds the lower small lines and brake booster, so that it conforms to a similar shape as the old hose?

I also pulled the trigger on a Turbonetics MBC because I was reading a thread in the Tech forum and got excited. Gotta figure out thread sizes for all the things so I can get the proper fittings once it shows up.. I have seen conflicting info on the forum. Yes I know I said I wouldn't turn up the boost until I got an intercooler.. I probably still won't. Plans for that have been accelerated though as I recently sold some crap I have been hoarding in an attempt to gain some more working space in my garage.. I have to wait until some other projects of mine wrap up but I think maybe before the summer is out...


My experience is that you can run 10psi on an S1 all day but you may not like it (totally not worth it) at high ambient temperature. So if its in the 90's F around here you can just turn it down. In the fall when temps drop, especially between 45-55F you will enjoy it for sure. I was able to run higher up to about 12 when it was cooler
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1980 931 since 1989
1981 Ideola 931 Club Sport
1982 931 Entwicklungsfahrzeug
1979 924 NA M650 Herausnehmbares Dach
1982 931 Red Resurrection - 951 IC
1982 931 parts car / resurrection?
1980 924 NA (R&D lightweight)
1982 931 wana-be GTR race car
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ideola  



Joined: 01 Oct 2004
Posts: 15506
Location: Woodstock IL

PostPosted: Thu May 28, 2020 11:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I concur.^^^
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jacobroufa  



Joined: 18 Nov 2016
Posts: 286
Location: Rockford, IL

PostPosted: Sat May 30, 2020 7:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cool cool.. we shall see how it all comes together...

Put a couple things back together just now but I have to wait to do any more with the vacuum. I have some hose coming tomorrow and another elbow arriving Monday and that should let me wrap up the vacuum system.

The only thing I have which I have not yet replaced that I have on hand is the intake -> compressor boot. I'll tackle that when I replace the lower water pump -> radiator hose.

So that lower pump hose as well as the upper thermostat hose I will probably do this weekend.

I might not do anything else on the 931 this weekend, we will see.. I know I still have to do the front suspension, but I was hoping to work on my wife's '63 Beetle. Just got a wiring harness for it, and we're eager to get that car back on the road!
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jacobroufa  



Joined: 18 Nov 2016
Posts: 286
Location: Rockford, IL

PostPosted: Wed Jun 03, 2020 10:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Got the hose yesterday finally and had a crack at replacing what was left.

Ran like absolute dog. Really crap idle, and like 10 in/hg, wayyy lower than before replacement. I swear I didn't miss any pieces either.

I think it's the short straight pieces.. I got .5" ID and .75" ID silicone hose to finish up this job (as I thought .625" would be too small for the big sections) and the .5" was perfect for replacing the loop that goes behind the intake down to the brake booster and to feed the tee'd off tiny line. PERFECT. I'm very happy with the replacement there.

But the larger ID for the short straight pieces, connecting the yellowed split pipe to the upper charge tube and AAV, well that's another story. I think they're just flat out too big. I clamped them tight and they seem to hold (e.g. cannot turn the fitting), but reading a bit more about clamping oversized silicone tube seems to show that is not a great idea and air will find a way past.. I need to get something with a smaller ID. Since I could not find this braided hose, anyone have a suggestion? Or did I just not look hard enough for the braided pieces?

Also while I was in there managed to replace the upper thermostat -> metal pipe hose that had given up the ghost on my last drive. Still gotta get the lower pump hose and intake boot. It's some progress though.
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jacobroufa  



Joined: 18 Nov 2016
Posts: 286
Location: Rockford, IL

PostPosted: Wed Jun 03, 2020 11:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok, so after taking a deep breath and consulting the PET I have two hoses I need..

I did not replace the upper breather connection to the intake manifold from the turbo recirculation valve, only the lower elbow that runs too dang close to the lower water pump hose..

Illustration 107-30 shows #26 is a 40mm section of 15 x 24, part number 999-239-007-40.. Which is unobtainable. But at least I have proper ID and OD.

And for the two short bits from charge tube and AAV to the funky piece.. we are looking at illustration 107-25 parts #32 and #32A, which are 48mm sections of 18 x 26, part number 931-110-173-01 also unobtainable... but again at least we have proper ID and OD.

Can only find it by the meter and this place was cheapest... At least it is the proper Cohline hose, but dang so spendy!!!

15mm: https://www.partsklassik.com/p-2009-hose-cloth-braided-re-enforced-15-mm.aspx
18mm: https://www.partsklassik.com/p-2007-hose-cloth-braided-re-enforced-18-mm.aspx
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jacobroufa  



Joined: 18 Nov 2016
Posts: 286
Location: Rockford, IL

PostPosted: Sun Jun 14, 2020 12:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Replaced the two larger straight 50mm length hoses with the proper size, everything is tightened up now..

Flick the key and it started right up! Whoa, it has never done that before.

Idled perfectly too, for about 5-7 seconds before it went to die on me. Revved it and it seemed to go OK after a stumble but it absolutely did not want to idle past those first few seconds of a dead cold start.

Just thinking out loud but could this have had the fueling adjusted to compensate as the vacuum bits degraded, and now since they're freshened up it is just not set right? Or maybe it's still just got massive vacuum leaks and I missed something obvious? I am not quite sure where to begin since I *just* replaced everything and doublechecked every connection..
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ideola  



Joined: 01 Oct 2004
Posts: 15506
Location: Woodstock IL

PostPosted: Sun Jun 14, 2020 1:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, absolutely. If you can hold 17 Hg steady idle fully warmed, youre ready to do CO2 adjustment. I have a gunson gastester you can borrow if you'd like, but a wideband O2 sensor / gauge is much better.
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jacobroufa  



Joined: 18 Nov 2016
Posts: 286
Location: Rockford, IL

PostPosted: Sun Jun 14, 2020 1:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ideola wrote:
Yes, absolutely. If you can hold 17 Hg steady idle fully warmed, youre ready to do CO2 adjustment. I have a gunson gastester you can borrow if you'd like, but a wideband O2 sensor / gauge is much better.


Cool, thanks Dan. I have a friend here in town w/ a tailpipe wbo2 that I can use. I am not sure about my idle pressure fully warmed though because I've not yet got it to be fully warm for several weeks since I first disassembled all the vacuum stuff. Maybe I should just go drive it for a bit even with crappy idle..
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ideola  



Joined: 01 Oct 2004
Posts: 15506
Location: Woodstock IL

PostPosted: Sun Jun 14, 2020 1:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Short term fix adjust idle to ~1000ish so it doesn't stall. Drive it a bit, get fully warm, run another bottle of techron while you do it. Then set mixture / idle on fully warmed engine. With WBO2, set it dead nuts on 14.7AFR at 950RPM idle fully warmed.
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jacobroufa  



Joined: 18 Nov 2016
Posts: 286
Location: Rockford, IL

PostPosted: Tue Jun 23, 2020 7:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Have yet to get with my buddy who has an exhaust gas analyzer / wbo2.

Finally took the time to mess with the idle though. Closed it all the way and per instructions elsewhere on the forum found to turn it out 2x and use that as a baseline. I had to turn it out closer to 3-3.5x and have a nice fairly steady idle at ~900rpm.

Even cold now it's a turn of the key from the window, don't even have to pump the gas. Beautiful!

Engine bay shot starting the car from warm (not hot)
https://photos.app.goo.gl/sQjzLC1fbFgAYFUZA

Quick shot down the driveway
https://photos.app.goo.gl/7RGTccqeW4bCEhpYA

After a drive, engine hot, vacuum mostly good (14-15in/hg)
https://photos.app.goo.gl/StxK3j2escfWQaTL9
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jacobroufa  



Joined: 18 Nov 2016
Posts: 286
Location: Rockford, IL

PostPosted: Tue Jun 23, 2020 8:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

And the next fun thing to happen to the 931...




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jacobroufa  



Joined: 18 Nov 2016
Posts: 286
Location: Rockford, IL

PostPosted: Tue Jun 23, 2020 10:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

So I'm looking at the FSM and KATALOG...

The parts catalog for 1979 shows a "desk pad" 477 857 543. NLA obviously. Will probably end up cutting a thing from neoprene sheet after tracing the base of the mirror. There's paint on the back of these that seem to indicate they were mounted directly on the door they were last on..

As for mounting and such.. some pictures of the shop manual:

Adjusting



Placement measurements



Comparison with the measurements for the electric mirrors


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