924Board.org

Cédric · Joined: 27 Aug 2004 Posts: 2098 Location: Sweden

I use the ring for both in and out of the exhaust side, works well. As long as you only use one of the two types at the same time

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1980 924 Turbo

chuck21401 · Joined: 20 Feb 2005 Posts: 341 Location: Annapolis, MD

Made some good progress this weekend.

1. Removed final muffler. That was probably the easiest part. Actually it's suspended from bungee cords under the car, will be easier to reinstall.
2. Removed starter. Was hoping to avoid this step..but needed to access a nut connecting the bypass pipe to the WG.
3. Dropped exhaust between turbo outlet and final muffler. Was able to leave the J-pipe in place.
4. 2/4 of the turbo mount bolts had disappeared. Replaced all hardware. The bolts that were in place were M8 X 20mm (1.25). The spec calls for M8 X 25mm (1.25).
5. Replaced turbo to exhaust manifold bolts. Used 1 Porsche bolt and sleeve ($$$) and used APR bolts for the other two. Would like to see everything stay in place before ordering two more sets of Porsche parts.

The turbo mount bracket is connected to the block with four bolts.
This one is easy to get to. The one above that took some stretching and patience. Once I was able to start the bolt by hand, I was able to reach it with an extension and flex socket.

The bolt on the top right is accessible from above with an extension and swivel socket. Tight squeeze past the charge tube. I was ready to remove it, but was able to install the bolt without doing that.

The bolt on the lower right wasn't easier. It is accessible from the front of the car, but only with a wrench. I couldn't get a socket on it!

I tightened down the manifold to turbo bolts first, then the turbo bracket mount...and ran out of time.

Next up -- installing new studs on the turbo and reconnecting the exhaust.
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1981 Porsche 931

Cédric · Joined: 27 Aug 2004 Posts: 2098 Location: Sweden

It really is the world cup of socket extensions and general use of every tool you have in the garage to get to those bolts. Most other things on the car you might do will be so much easier, thats a positive at least

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1980 924 Turbo

chuck21401 · Joined: 20 Feb 2005 Posts: 341 Location: Annapolis, MD

A bit more progress today.

The Snap-on stud installer (MSK-M1015N) made installing the new studs easy.

The original Porsche studs (900.081.050.02) are NLA. I ordered these from from this site: https://www.treadstoneperformance.com/product.phtml?p=103702&cat_key=305&prodname=M10+X+1.5+42mm+Stud

I was a bit worried that 42mm would be too long but they worked out fine.
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1981 Porsche 931

chuck21401 · Joined: 20 Feb 2005 Posts: 341 Location: Annapolis, MD

Decided to try Stage 8 locking nuts. (#3952 Turbo Nut Kit (10mm-1.50))

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1981 Porsche 931

chuck21401 · Joined: 20 Feb 2005 Posts: 341 Location: Annapolis, MD

My car is back on the road...but now I have new problems. lol

In terms of the loose/missing bolts....

1. Replaced turbo mount to block bolts.
2. Replaced turbo to manifold bolts.
3. Replaced turbo exhaust studs; used stage 8 locking nuts. Used gasket and left out the "fire ring"
4. Tightened j-pipe nuts (not much)
5. Tightened j-pipe to wastegate nuts (not much)
6. Replaced WG mounting bolts/nuts. They had also disappeared.
7. Remounted exhaust; used fresh hardware as needed.

There is a lot less vibration now.

Previously I had replaced the clutch slave cylinder and bled the system using a motive power bleeder. Was still having trouble with the clutch dropping to the floor. Thought maybe I had an air pocket so I bled it again. After driving around it's clear that didn't fix the problem...I'm thinking that the master cylinder is bad. It is not leaking fluid...just loosing pressure from time to time. So that will be the next project along with the related rubber line that runs from the master to the slave.

But here's the bigger problem....

I drove the car around for probably 30 minutes. Seemed to drive as normal....AFR meter seemed normal as well....14.7 at idle/cruise....low 12s into the boost.

So as I'm idling in the driveway I see the AFR is in the 10s/11s at idle... I drove around at bit and it seemed to be in the 11s, 12s, 13s but never at 14 at idle or cruising. Why would the AFR readings change so dramatically all of the sudden? Could there be a problem with the sensor for the gauge? A problem with the O2 sensor? I'll hook up the dwell meter to see what's going on when I have more time. Just doesn't make a lot of sense. I suppose I could disconnect the O2 sensor and try it...seems like that would cause the car to run leaner?

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1981 Porsche 931