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Accusump Routing Question

 
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MikeJinCO  



Joined: 08 Jun 2010
Posts: 695
Location: Maysville, Colorado

PostPosted: Wed Dec 20, 2017 1:15 am    Post subject: Accusump Routing Question Reply with quote

Before I start boring holes in firewalls etc. I have Accusump located just behind where the passenger seat would go with a manual valve near the shift lever. My oil filter and temperature bypass valve are located in the passenger side headlight bucket, in front of the wheel. It appears that the best way to get from the passenger compartment to that area is to come up thru the old battery box with a bulkhead fitting and then thru the wall basically parallel to the valve cover trying to leave enough room to allow removal of the valve cover for valve adjustment while missing the distributor cap. I'm using -10 hose which is not exactly flexible.

Battery box is currently occupied by MSD ignition box, but plenty of room for the hose and battery moved to rear passenger wheel well.

Suggestions are welcome.
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Mike
Poco a Poco, '80 future track car
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924RACR  



Joined: 29 Jul 2001
Posts: 8063
Location: Royal Oak, MI, USA

PostPosted: Wed Dec 20, 2017 11:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I did mine through the firewall in the footwell area of the passenger side. It actually ends up on the outside of the frame rail until it's in front of the header, then turns up to join my filter mount just behind the radiator.

I was (obviously) worried about heat... but that may have been excessive caution. Does keep some weight low, though...
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Vaughan Scott
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'79 924 #77 ITB racecar
'82 931 Plat. Silver
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MikeJinCO  



Joined: 08 Jun 2010
Posts: 695
Location: Maysville, Colorado

PostPosted: Fri Dec 22, 2017 2:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Grrr. I'm not entirely committed at this point and I haven't cut any hose. I'm going to go back and stick an alternator, headers and starter on this block sitting in the engine bay. It looks SO easy until the block and head get stuck in there at an angle.
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Mike
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Ian89C4  



Joined: 01 Apr 2011
Posts: 496
Location: North Carolina

PostPosted: Fri Dec 22, 2017 7:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I followed the same routing as Vaughn. Has worked very well for me for the past couple of years. I used a through fire wall connector instead of a straight through hose. Added some wear protection for the hose.

I highly recommend doing it as in hard left handers you will watch your oil pressure go to 0

Cheers!

Ian
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Ian Edgerly
Spiveys Corner, North Carolina

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MikeJinCO  



Joined: 08 Jun 2010
Posts: 695
Location: Maysville, Colorado

PostPosted: Sun Dec 24, 2017 1:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I assembled that side of my mock up motor(block with head-no crank etc) with one of Dan's gear reduction starter, oil adapter plate and alternator with a MSDS header. The starter needed another set of holes drilled to index properly. On the oil line adapter it looks like the only way to really get out of there is down so I will probably have to change my outlet fittings to 45 degree from the 90's I have, and then reroute as others thru the wheel well area. The MSDS header seems to run into a heat shield bolt lug on the cast iron motor mound so It looks like that needs cut off also the oxygen sensor outlet on the manifold gets quite close to the starter so it will be need to be cut off and welded. This is truly a continuing exercise in problem solving.

Would a better way to route hoses be to just buy a length of 3/4" heater hose, somehow attach it to the fittings and mock it all up?

Ian- on the bulkhead adapters the original plan was to run the -10 tubing up thru the battery box then turn and out thru that wall into the engine bay. The thought of two bulkhead adapters in that 6-8" space with this ugly -10 hose and the limited number of fittings was that it would be extremely difficult. Hence the one bulkhead fitting and bushing.
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Mike
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924RACR  



Joined: 29 Jul 2001
Posts: 8063
Location: Royal Oak, MI, USA

PostPosted: Mon Dec 25, 2017 12:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah, I used 45-deg hose ends for my oil filter reloc plate... and yes, cut that lug off the iron motor mount.

If some throwaway heater hose would help you mock it up, then by all means - seems a cheap cost given the challenge of the routing. I have seen over the years that taking time to sweat out the details of the routings, making the necessary protections against rubbing and supporting the hoses where needed, correct lengths, fittings, etc, makes a big difference in reliability. Remember that sometimes all you need to fix a rub is to tape plastic electrical conduit to the outside of the hose, so it won't saw through a panel or other hoses/wiring.
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Vaughan Scott
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MikeJinCO  



Joined: 08 Jun 2010
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Location: Maysville, Colorado

PostPosted: Mon Mar 26, 2018 12:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thought I should make an update. After surviving shoulder surgery in January and now in 6th week of rehab. I have it about all run. I followed your routing thru the passenger side wheel well and have the return hose below the generator and the supply hose above it, It now just need a pair of AN couplings. I found the following items quite helpful. First I took a block of wood and grooved it to hold the tubing for cutting in a vise which had a cross slot cut into it for the cutoff wheel. It helps to keep the cuts square. I bought a Kool Tool which is a fitting holder with a taper to help get the tubing ends into the the fittings. I also warmed the ends of the tubing with a hot air gun to make the tubing slightly more pliable when assembling the fittings. Got the warming idea from the local circle track racer.

Now I just have to go back, entirely disassemble the front end so that I can make sure the header doesn't interfere with anything. It is interesting that for a MSDS header to be installed or removed that the lower cross member must be off. I put the cross member, steering and sway bar-a 30mm fron a 968 in to make sure everything fit. With my lack of shoulder/arm strength it is not much fun dealing with the larger these larger pieces.
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Mike
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924RACR  



Joined: 29 Jul 2001
Posts: 8063
Location: Royal Oak, MI, USA

PostPosted: Mon Mar 26, 2018 2:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Excellent idea, to warm the tube. Never heard of that, but will be using it in future! I also have the Koul Tools, though they came out after I did all my 924 plumbing. I also have the aluminum vice jaws, like your block of wood, pretty helpful, particularly for assembling.
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Vaughan Scott
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curtisr  



Joined: 07 Apr 2012
Posts: 83
Location: Kingston, Ontario, Canada

PostPosted: Mon Apr 09, 2018 12:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

After removing the HVAC and air conditioning hoses I found some nice holes in the passenger footwell firewall just waiting for the oil accumulator lines.
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MikeJinCO  



Joined: 08 Jun 2010
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Location: Maysville, Colorado

PostPosted: Tue Apr 17, 2018 11:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The issue is that the braided cover lines are not very flexible so on the NA snaking a line thru between the starter and a header gets difficult. If you got it done many congratulations as you saved a lot of money on line and particularly fittings and countless hours work.
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Mike
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