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Modifications to Wilson
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Fasteddie313  



Joined: 29 Sep 2013
Posts: 2596
Location: MI

PostPosted: Mon Feb 06, 2017 8:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm excited to watch your unusual build develop as well..
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80 Turbo - Slightly Modified
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Noahs944  



Joined: 08 Dec 2015
Posts: 782
Location: Calgary, Alberta, Canada

PostPosted: Mon Feb 06, 2017 9:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks guys! I've never driven a gasoline turbo vehicle before!

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Fit the hot air intake filter & used a hacksaw & file to cut the angle of the 2.5" elbow... very little margine for error!!

Think about it: hood clearance, brake booster clearance, master cylinder clearance, charge air cooler in relation to angle-of compressor , air filter clearance, oil in & oil drain, plus accessibility to additional bracket mounting for the heavy turbo! That's a lot!! Imagine if we had to run coolant in and out hoses also!!







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Fasteddie313  



Joined: 29 Sep 2013
Posts: 2596
Location: MI

PostPosted: Mon Feb 06, 2017 10:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You can loosen the compressor and turbine housings and rotate them any which way to point them where you want, like making sure your bearing housing is pointing with its drain straight down and stuff..

Do you have any experience on anything 2-stroke?
I broke in my teeth on a pretty mean banshee when I was almost too young for such things.. My dad tells the shock tuners "Set it up for a 95lb rider..", lol.. Went through a few engines in a few years and it just got meaner..

That is what my 931 feels like..
I'd say adding a turbo to a car, or increasing it I guess, feels like going from a 150cc 4-stroke dirtbike and turning it into what a 250 2-stroke feels like..
It'll have about that 150 power on the low end until the powerband/boost comes in half way up the rev range and doubles it..
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Noahs944  



Joined: 08 Dec 2015
Posts: 782
Location: Calgary, Alberta, Canada

PostPosted: Tue Feb 07, 2017 5:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fasteddie,
cool hearing about the feeling of your 931. I have never ridden a 2 stroke. And thank you for the suggesting on rotating the turbo (I will do as you say).

Started on the turbo mount to the engine using the old sachs strut insert tubes that are just over 1" diameter, then welding washers on the engine side.
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Noahs944  



Joined: 08 Dec 2015
Posts: 782
Location: Calgary, Alberta, Canada

PostPosted: Wed Feb 08, 2017 1:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Callaway greatness!! Before the 951 was a car.







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Noahs944  



Joined: 08 Dec 2015
Posts: 782
Location: Calgary, Alberta, Canada

PostPosted: Thu Feb 09, 2017 2:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

924 turbo reference in this article:

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Noahs944  



Joined: 08 Dec 2015
Posts: 782
Location: Calgary, Alberta, Canada

PostPosted: Thu Feb 09, 2017 4:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sorry for the crap pics but here's the beginning of the turbo mounting bracket. It was made to mount on 3 oem bolts (one bolt each on the balance shaft cover, the alt bracket & the engine to frame mount).

Dunno where to go from here, but thinking maybe the exhaust flange (post turbo).



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Noahs944  



Joined: 08 Dec 2015
Posts: 782
Location: Calgary, Alberta, Canada

PostPosted: Fri Feb 10, 2017 3:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mounting of the turbo.
Okay, I dunno how big the k26/6 oem 951 is, but this is a larger turbo.
I decided to make an angle iron bracket which will be welded to the "tri-tube" engine bracket.



There isn't any room to move. To position the turbo/air filter/exhaust pipe assembly before tack-welding in place I used knee pads to separate the assembly from the rest of the car.



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Noahs944  



Joined: 08 Dec 2015
Posts: 782
Location: Calgary, Alberta, Canada

PostPosted: Fri Feb 10, 2017 4:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Before fully welding, wanted to put the bonnet on & check. It closes, but damn the turbo touches the hood. Not acceptable... more surgery needed.


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Noahs944  



Joined: 08 Dec 2015
Posts: 782
Location: Calgary, Alberta, Canada

PostPosted: Sun Feb 12, 2017 4:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Need to figure out if I'm keeping rad & a/c condenser in stock location or not.



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Noahs944  



Joined: 08 Dec 2015
Posts: 782
Location: Calgary, Alberta, Canada

PostPosted: Mon Feb 13, 2017 3:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This weekend was much slower progression than I hoped for because I'm busy paper-chasing & selling porsche stuff to help fund this project.

CHARGE AIR COOLER:
Wanted to explore all options of mounting. So dropped the front belly pan & got to work seeing if I can fit the 27.5"x2.5" cooler in front of the condenser. Look how dirty this car is!!! Rally type driving is so nasty on the cars.


It seemed like the best way to mount it is in front, but these bracket lips (for n/a dam?) seemed like they were in the way, so cut them off. Then a/c brackets were interfering, so no go. I eventually took the hint (without a/c this would have been perfect... the height was just right.



I also wanted to tilt the cond/rad/cooler in a "V MOUNT" configuration, but that would require removing the front crossmember and fabricate another crossmember.... though tempting, I declined (at this point in time).

Eventually I settled on a high horizontal mount under the nose with hoses existing next to the rectangular headlights.



My tool is only 60mm & the cooler pipe is 70mm, so will enlarge Monday or Tuesday.

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Fasteddie313  



Joined: 29 Sep 2013
Posts: 2596
Location: MI

PostPosted: Tue Feb 14, 2017 1:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I spaced my radiator back toward the engine to give my IC room. Is their room to do that on the 2.5?
Could you get rid of whatever is between the AC cooler and radiator to make them sit flat against eachother to give your IC room?

I think airflow is best if radiators are sandwiched right to eachother, or if gapped, the edges around sealed so air has no choice but to continue going through them and can't diverge out from between them...

If you could do that then you can prolly get it behind the nose and flush against the AC cooler/rad stack..

Or with that monster front bumper you have to be able to squeeze an IC in there somewhere..

This one is mine..

Is yours pretty much the same size but thinner?
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Noahs944  



Joined: 08 Dec 2015
Posts: 782
Location: Calgary, Alberta, Canada

PostPosted: Tue Feb 14, 2017 11:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wow, that cooler you have is da bomb!
Huge! Yes are intercoolers ar similar but my pipes are only 2.5" and the core is 1" thinner!

I will look again. I never thought about spacing towards engine, yes I think there is room. barely...

I totally agree about the air to air cooler doing it's job better if perpendicular to air flow.

...will re-assess...
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Fasteddie313  



Joined: 29 Sep 2013
Posts: 2596
Location: MI

PostPosted: Wed Feb 15, 2017 12:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here is how I did my spacing...



Chunks of pipe/tube cut for spacing the rad mounts back and an angle iron across that the IC bolts to, it has mount lugs on it just like yours..

It's an ebay china IC, I bet it's made by the same place that made yours by the look of them.. I'm glad to report that I have found no problems wit my china IC so yours is probably just as good, works fine, no leaks, no problems..

All junkyard parts...


Ended up something like this..


I know your car is much different and you will need completely different routing, maybe even better/shorter routing than mine, but might give you some ideas.. Here is the rest.. http://924board.org/viewtopic.php?t=41250

I think you are trying to do it pretty similar but upsidedown from mine, putting your IC on the top of your rad opposite of how I put mine on the bottom, maybe it will work..

Ditching the AC was one of the first things I did on my car though long before I started thinking about putting an IC in there somewhere..

BTW my pipes are all 2.5 also, I just use 2.5"-3" 90 reducers off of the IC tanks..

I din't mean to buy a 3" piped IC but it is what I found with the dimensions I wanted and was able to make it work with reducers.. I probably would have bought your 2.5" IC in the first place if I would have found it, I was only really concerned with the width from the outside of the tanks to get it to fit where I put it and 3" was an added complexity risk but I made it happen..
If one was to copy my 931 IC install that IC you have would probably be ideal and allow install with absolutely zero cutting, maybe..
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Noahs944  



Joined: 08 Dec 2015
Posts: 782
Location: Calgary, Alberta, Canada

PostPosted: Wed Feb 15, 2017 2:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

great illustrative pictures brother! Nice fabrication idea!

I really like that idea, however it's not that easy with the late 944 whilst retaining a/c.

--------

I have re-visited the horizontal mounting near the engine tray idea (like the Callaway design). I thought this was my last resort, if all fails "this will work", but honestly I don't care for it (because it'll get dirty & plugged & I'll drop wrenches on it & with my present belly tray, the air flow won't be good. And plumbing to the turbo will suck.

My 3 options are: under nose panel. In front near rad. Horizontal.

Under nose panel
The good:
-Super short & nice routing from compressor horn to cooler.
-Stealth and protected under nose panel.
-Looks nice
The bad:
-Routing from the cooler to n/a throttle body sucks (because the upper rad hose is in the way & the angles of the throttle body & the cooler will make for nasty bends).
-Air flow is minimal, so not maximizing the cooling effect of the cooler.


The routing I'm dealing with:



I am considering all options for routing to the n/a throttle body.
It is not good for 2 reasons:
-3" opening is upward facing & I need the pipe to go down.
-The upper rad hose is in the path to the cooler. I'm thinking of making a tall spacer to allow the cooler to t.b. pipe to pass under. Or fabricate a 3" extension for the throttle body opening that play nicer with the rad hose/cooler hose.


OR JUST SAY... to heck with it I'm cutting the front crossmember & going v-mount!!







This is a close-up to show how I enlarged the holes from 2" to 2.5" (rather than grinding or cutting it larger to fit, I used small vise grips to very gradually bend the panel over & toched it up with a ball peen hammer). The flange stiffens the panel & there is less chance of cutting through the soft aluminum cooler in case of rubbing.

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