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Pray for the '82 931...
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Rasta Monsta  



Joined: 12 Jul 2006
Posts: 11332
Location: PacNW

PostPosted: Mon Dec 05, 2016 9:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

924RACR wrote:
I had previously removed the electronic component. . .to clean off corrosion.


What did you find in there? Is this good maintenance? Are there alternative plug and play solutions for this part?
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morghen  



Joined: 21 Jan 2005
Posts: 7674
Location: Romania

PostPosted: Mon Dec 05, 2016 5:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That ignition amplification module is a standard BOSCH part.
The one original with the engine in my red car died 9 years ago so I replaced it with one from a VW Passat.
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peterld  



Joined: 10 Dec 2006
Posts: 658
Location: Noosa Heads QLD Australia

PostPosted: Mon Dec 05, 2016 11:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Do you know the VW part number, by any chance?
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924RACR  



Joined: 29 Jul 2001
Posts: 8036
Location: Royal Oak, MI, USA

PostPosted: Mon Dec 05, 2016 11:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rasta Monsta wrote:
924RACR wrote:
I had previously removed the electronic component. . .to clean off corrosion.


What did you find in there? Is this good maintenance? Are there alternative plug and play solutions for this part?


I seem to recall some corrosion (was at least at the beginning of this year, if not earlier).

No, apparently this was not good maintenance! Maybe if I'd used some proper conductive paste (like from Radio Shack or other electronics supply place).

I'm tempted to re-paste it and reinstall, see if the problem returns. Glad to hear that it's a common part...

According to the photo of the one I took off, I see part # 211 905 351, mfgr is Fairchild, and it's clearly marked VW/Audi.

Edit: exactly this part:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/151747513189?lpid=82&chn=ps&ul_noapp=true

$30 on eBay, apparently there are new ones too. Hell, that one above is around the corner from me! LOL

Yeah, Walmart sells a new one!
https://www.walmart.com/ip/NEW-IGNITION-CONTROL-MODULE-FITS-EUROPEAN-MODEL-1979-1989-VOLKSWAGEN-211-905-351A-B-D-0-227-100-116-0-227-100-118-0-227-100-137/113340650?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=1134&adid=22222222227050039562&wmlspartner=wmtlabs&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=145320267749&wl4=pla-261006180645&wl5=9016902&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=112343853&wl11=online&wl12=113340650&wl13=&veh=sem

One more, original part # (per the PET parts catalog) is 191 905 351 A... Google search shows it turning up as a VW Golf Mk1/Mk2 ignition control module...

PS - thanks to John Brown for providing the part!
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peterld  



Joined: 10 Dec 2006
Posts: 658
Location: Noosa Heads QLD Australia

PostPosted: Tue Dec 06, 2016 12:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you for those details. Cheers!
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Rasta Monsta  



Joined: 12 Jul 2006
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Location: PacNW

PostPosted: Tue Dec 06, 2016 3:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wait, that little black bugger is inside the silver box on my driver's side fender?

Wow, Autohausaz has it for $35, with a list north of $300. If they're subject to common failure, seems like a decent maintenance item.
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Cédric  



Joined: 27 Aug 2004
Posts: 1588
Location: Sweden

PostPosted: Tue Dec 06, 2016 3:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rasta Monsta wrote:
Wait, that little black bugger is inside the silver box on my driver's side fender?

Wow, Autohausaz has it for $35, with a list north of $300. If they're subject to common failure, seems like a decent maintenance item.


Jup, i got problems with it to when I first got my engine running, occasional hard starting and missfires, sometimes it ran really well. An s2 engine though, got mine from a Volvo 740 for free
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morghen  



Joined: 21 Jan 2005
Posts: 7674
Location: Romania

PostPosted: Tue Dec 06, 2016 3:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

They are different between the NA the S1 turbo and the S2 turbo...each of them uses a different ignition amp module.

The NA and S1 turbo are silver encapsulated boxes(different part numbers but same shit inside) while the S2 turbo and all the GTs have a black more modern part thats cheaper and found on all 90s VWs.


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Rasta Monsta  



Joined: 12 Jul 2006
Posts: 11332
Location: PacNW

PostPosted: Tue Dec 06, 2016 3:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

morghen wrote:
They are different between the NA the S1 turbo and the S2 turbo


A key fact. It appears the S1 units are. . .um. . .pricey.


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Chaos  



Joined: 07 Nov 2005
Posts: 289
Location: Newark, DE, US

PostPosted: Tue Dec 06, 2016 4:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

So, is there supposed to be thermal paste on the back of these?

I can't say that I'd ever noticed that before... kinda makes me wonder if I should address that on mine, too.
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924RACR  



Joined: 29 Jul 2001
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Location: Royal Oak, MI, USA

PostPosted: Tue Dec 06, 2016 9:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

It would make sense that there should be. But mine may have just been going, for longer than I even realized...
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morghen  



Joined: 21 Jan 2005
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Location: Romania

PostPosted: Tue Dec 06, 2016 8:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

No paste under mine either but then again I do get some misfires/detonation at high RPMS under heavy load so the ignition system may be under higher load as well...so i'm going to add some thermal paste under it...cant hurt.
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Chaos  



Joined: 07 Nov 2005
Posts: 289
Location: Newark, DE, US

PostPosted: Fri Dec 09, 2016 4:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Figured everyone on this thread might find this interesting...

I just ordered one of these cheap, $30 replacement modules from Amazon (the same 3rd party seller as the Walmart link, above).

Much to my surprise, when I opened the box, it actually included a small packet of thermal paste and an instruction sheet suggesting its application.

Validation!
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924RACR  



Joined: 29 Jul 2001
Posts: 8036
Location: Royal Oak, MI, USA

PostPosted: Thu Feb 23, 2017 12:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Most of the salt is gone from the roads - if not our parking lot (where I swear I could shovel up enough to last me at home all winter).

So I got to drive the car to work this morning! Much happiness! Ran pretty decent - though seems weak, and is probably a bit low on boost. Hope I can get the wastegate rebuilt or replace it before long - but gotta fix my boost gauge hookup first (pinched through the firewall, so no reading).

Plenty of little annoyances to deal with at the moment, like a headlight that's full of water and low-beam that's not working... and weak-as-hell defrost fan, plus actual heater controls that don't work... but driveable, for a good bit.

Gotta see how my oil consumption is now too - was quite bad before I fixed my misfire problem, but I believe the rings were badly gummed, so...
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Vaughan Scott
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924RACR  



Joined: 29 Jul 2001
Posts: 8036
Location: Royal Oak, MI, USA

PostPosted: Thu Feb 23, 2017 10:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

More good progress... god these cars just ache to be driven!

Headlight is now getting power. Unfortunately, the H4 conversion flooded over the winter, so even though it has power, the reflector is rusted off. Since I will probably do the fixed/GTS conversion (with LEDs is my plan), no point getting new H4's - will either live with it (since I don't often drive the car after dark anyway, certainly not anywhere there's no lights) or swap in some el-cheapo sealed beam replacements. Still only $10 at the corner.

Fixed the intermittent wipers that magically self-activated - just a little corrosion on the relay, removing and re-seating fixed that, thankfully.

Then more productive work after work... got the boost gauge working (had a pinched line through the firewall), fixed my alignment (front toe off), and properly secured the battery. Radio still has massive, worse than ever interference, apparently both from the ignition and now even the rad fan... but that's gonna go in the trash anyway, so who cares.

But tomorrow's drive to work is gonna be even better than ever!!

Did also manage to confirm that the car is making full boost... had feared a leak, but now I'm seeing a solid 7psi on the gauge (all stock, so far)... so must be OK, if slow to build.

Now, about that bleeder valve...
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